94+ w/ BPT ECU

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » February 25th, 2007, 2:11 am

Trying to find out who else is running a bpt engine with a bpt ecu in a 94 and above mx-3.

I have been running mine for close to 4 years and I have gotten it to run better and better but I never was able to get a check engine light working.

Idle at times has been pretty stable but usually at the cost of idling over 1000 rpm.

I idle right now pretty well at about 800 rpm without the ac or break pedal pressed.

mazdachad · Post by **mazdachad** » February 25th, 2007, 3:04 am

i cant get mine to run the check engine either so i put a pro lx ecu in to read it. I was told on clubprotege that the ecu doesnt ever run the check engine and he just wired up his check engine light to act as a boost light.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » February 25th, 2007, 12:03 pm

What harness are you using. I hope not the 94 harness, and did you hook up th eknock sensor, and the boost sensor?

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » February 25th, 2007, 1:43 pm

i am using the bpt engine harness to the bpt ecu, and the stock 94 mx3 dash wires, ac wires and fuse boxes. fuel pump is a bp relay to the bpt harness.

i believe all important sensors are hooked up. the car has been running for almost 4 yrs and once i stopped trying to use a custom rrfrp and got the vaf about right i get 24mpg city and 29 on highway at over 70mph

for idle i have recently had to use a toggle switch to send a - signal in place of the stock tranny neutral switch

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Has anyone managed to pull engine codes?
For all I know my vaf tep sensor is bad and that it is miscaluclating air flow. causing it to idle rough and rich when ac/stoplight/ps are on

nickmx3 · Post by **nickmx3** » February 26th, 2007, 5:04 pm

I have the bpt ecu on a 95 jdm az3 and idle rises and drop because i have a slight leak on the intercooler pipe at stop signs or right after hard acceleration or on startup but before the leak it idled perfectly.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » February 26th, 2007, 8:47 pm

are you running stock boost? definatly sounds like you could have a leak on the IC piping, maybe a Vac leak. or mybe your TPS, or VAF sensor is out of adjustment.

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » February 26th, 2007, 11:04 pm

i dont think it is a leak as i have sprayed starter fluid everywhere and it only make the engine rev when it hits the air-filter

it also after being warm and without any acceosries running except the fan will run perfectly idle with an occasionally hick-up, but then hickup(idle drop) is rare

it is when the break pedal and or ac are used that idle is an issue

there is an occasion now and then where after hard acceleration the car feels like itis pulling back on me

the tps has been adjusted to tell the car the flapper is closed.

maybe the vaf temp sensor?

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » March 5th, 2007, 10:23 pm

another foreum suggested i do
Connect the positive + of the LED to the B+ 12v socket.
Connect the negative - of the LED to the FEN socket.
Connect a jumper wire or paperclip between the TEN and GND sockets.

and i pulled codes 5 and 15

wire was loose for 02 and after resetting, both codes were gone

Cy · Post by Cy » March 5th, 2007, 11:20 pm

I would never suggest running a wire to anything in DIAG box...

TenGnd is all you need then turn the key...

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » March 6th, 2007, 5:13 pm

I do not have a stock ecu so just wiring 10 and gnd will not turn the light on with codes.

The method I mentioned above is great for pulling a code from under the hood, but I would like to a light to work to warn me that there is a code while driving, as a stock setup would.

papa roached · Post by **papa roached** » March 11th, 2007, 4:35 am

teh JDM ecu for the V6 is the same way, no CEL

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » March 11th, 2007, 12:23 pm

i just found that a low powered led wired to fen and 12+ will work to be cel