CLUTCH HELP!!!

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 7th, 2007, 2:51 pm

i found it now i got to find a ride to the store so i can get some more fluid

i was trying to bleed it and at a point it wouldnt go in to gear then it just slipped back into gear without the clutch

when i get more fliid i'll post again.

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 7th, 2007, 6:08 pm

ok..im confused here...

during the process of me bleeding my clutch..

i got the fluid, the buddy, and the 8mm wrench..

i done what you told me to..and when i pushed the pedal to the floor..it wouldnt release...that happening i said im not going to do this anymore until i kno if this is normal or not..my guess is its not normal and that im going to have to replace me slave cyl..??..

or do i have to pull the pedal out?? but that doesnt sound right..because u stated that i would "pump" the clutch..not push it and pull it..

i gotta get this darn thing fixed..

thanx again..

Bumpysbro · Post by **Bumpysbro** » March 7th, 2007, 6:16 pm

ok well now is your slave hooked up to the fork on the tranny? and do you have enough fluid in the resevoir. if its a little bit less then half way full your clutch isnt getting fluid. if those thing are ok then i would suspect your slave is bad and its cheaper to fix then your clutch master cylinder.

oh and look when you press the clutch pedal that the slave rod is moving in and out to see if its good.

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 7th, 2007, 6:20 pm

thats what i thought..

ill get a new one..and yes its ALOT cheaper than the master..

but thanx for all the help i get paid on friday so ill get my part then..

everything is hooked up..i checked all my lines and the resivior was full the whole time i would put a lil in it every time i tried to pump the clutch..

thanx again for everything and ill post later on how it goes after replacing the part..

OROutdoors · Post by **OROutdoors** » March 8th, 2007, 3:05 pm

When I was younger and new to driving, I was helping my uncle bleed his clutch. Every time I would step on the pedal, and he would open the bleeding screw, the fluid would ooze out, not squirt out. He asked me to pump the pedal several times and make sure I was getting a good pressure against my foot. I did that and it still oozed very slowly. He thought it over and concluded that it must the a bad master cylinder because if the master were good, then the fliud should be squirting out, not oozing when I step on the pedal.

So, for humor sake, I decided to pretend as if I were pushing the wrong pedal. So, I said to him, "The clutch is the left pedal, right?" To which he said, "Well, yeah, which one are you pushing?" So, I said, "Umm... lets try that again..." and then I pushed the left pedal -- which I hadn't before, and what do you know -- bleeding worked much better.

OROutdoors · Post by **OROutdoors** » March 8th, 2007, 3:14 pm

xtreme velocity wrote:everything is hooked up..i checked all my lines and the resivior was full the whole time i would put a lil in it every time i tried to pump the clutch..

Just to be sure, when you bled the clutch lines: you made sure the fluid level never, at any point, went below the lower fill line; you closed the bleed screw before your helper let up on the pedal; and that you kept bleeding the lines until they ran clear. Is all that right? And you can pump the clutch pedal, and it does not build resistance? If so, that sounds like one of the cylinders is bad. While bleeding the lines, did the fluid just ooze out, or did it squirt with some force?

Did I read that you also said that the pedal was not returning on it's own? Perhaps you should check the return spring too.

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 8th, 2007, 4:07 pm

i bleed it right...

it did squirt out with a lil force...

but the pedal wouldnt return after closing the screw..but if i closed the screw and pulled the pedal out..it would pump just fine...only when i would try to bleed the clutch would it nor return..

if that made any sense..

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 10th, 2007, 5:54 pm

ok..so i replaced the slave cyl today..and i got everything done...

i bleed the clutch and when i went to go start the car and see if it would work..the pedal moves freely w/o any tension at all..

when we were bleeding it it had tension..but when i went to start it there is absolutly no tension on the clutch at all...

idk what to do anymore..i cant afford a million parts for this car..if anything im going to have to sell it and get something more dependable...

i have to have something to drive though..so right now im pretty much screwed...

OROutdoors · Post by **OROutdoors** » March 10th, 2007, 10:13 pm

Okay, so now I need to ask you to verify -- when you bled the lines after installing the slave cylinder, the fluid did squirt out, not ooze out, right? Also, when you bled the lines this time, did you made sure that the COT fluid never went below the lower line, and that you bled it enough that you are sure that your were able to force all the air out of the lines and slave cylinder? Also, did you verify that the piston and the rubbe grommet are in the correct direction? Did you check the pedal return spring? Has the pedal been lubricated and adjusted?

The reasons I am asking these questions are these:
1. if there is any air left in the lines or cylinder, you'll get lower pressure; if enough air, you'll get no pressure.
2. if the fluid does squirt out while bleeding, this implies that master cylinder is good. And, you should have some pressure when pressing the pedal if the bleed screw is closed.
3. if the rubber is the wrong way on the piston, it can allow the fluid to go past the piston instead of pushing the piston.
4. if the pedal is not returning to proper height, it will not be able to operate the master cylinder enough to create enough pressure to disengage the clutch. lack of lubrication, poor adustment or a bad spring can cause the pedal to not return correctly.

Lastly, and really don't mean to sound insulting (to anyone), but I'm not sure that the motions of bleeding were explained 100% (not that I do either). The steps during the bleed operation are as follows:
a. person at bleed screw says "push" or something like that.
b. the person at the pedal pushes the pedal down moderately, does not let up, and says "okay"
c. the person at the screw opens the screw and allows the fliud to squirt out. They should be using a clear hose on the screw to see the color of the fluid and whether there is any air.
d. after the pressure of the fluid has been released, the person at the bleed screw closes the screw and says "up".
e. The person at the pedal lets up on the pedal and says "okay".
f. go back to (a) and continue until there is no air in the system (and the fluid is all new).

OROutdoors · Post by **OROutdoors** » March 10th, 2007, 10:27 pm

[we mainly focused on the hydraulics -- this is the least expensive and easiest, so it should be the firs to check. But other problems may exits]

Reasons for clutch to not disengage:
- damaged clutch disc or too much run out.
- worn or damaged clutch splines
- damaged release bearing
- weak diaphram spring
- poor adjustment of clutch pedal
- too little clutch fluid
- leaking clutch fluid
- problem with hydraulic system hardware

Check the online manual from the mx-3.com home page. It's for a 95, but most of the info should be the close enough if your car is another year. By the way, you may want to add you car's year and model to your signature.

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 11th, 2007, 4:53 pm

OROutdoors wrote:Lastly, and really don't mean to sound insulting (to anyone), but I'm not sure that the motions of bleeding were explained 100% (not that I do either). The steps during the bleed operation are as follows:
a. person at bleed screw says "push" or something like that.
b. the person at the pedal pushes the pedal down moderately, does not let up, and says "okay"
c. the person at the screw opens the screw and allows the fliud to squirt out. They should be using a clear hose on the screw to see the color of the fluid and whether there is any air.
d. after the pressure of the fluid has been released, the person at the bleed screw closes the screw and says "up".
e. The person at the pedal lets up on the pedal and says "okay".
f. go back to (a) and continue until there is no air in the system (and the fluid is all new).

thats exactly what went on in the process of bleeding..
and the fluid NEVER even got close to the fill line..everything was installed corectly...

i will bleed it one more time and see if that works..if it doesnt then idk what im going to do...

thanks guys..yall have been ALOT of help

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 12th, 2007, 4:23 pm

ok.. the line has been bleed a million times and the cyl is replaced...

im clueless on what to do from here..i called my dad last night and talked to him about it and explained everything to him..and hes kinda lost as well..and he wrenched for over 30 yrs and owned 4 shops..so his word is pretty good to me..but also it was over the phone..thats like doing heart surgery yourself while talking to the doc over the phone..

after all this being said..im lost..

the motor is so quiet and the trany is as well...nothing see out of the ordinary..just seems to be no gears...and i dont see all 6 gears going out at the same time..

the only thing i could even think about checking would be the pressure plate..

but idk..thats why i ask you guys first..

OROutdoors · Post by **OROutdoors** » March 12th, 2007, 4:34 pm

Go to http://www.mx3.com
Click on the "Online Shop Manual" in the left column
Click Table of Contents
Select Section H
Check out page H04 of the online maintenance manual.

Read the different pages, which are referenced, and give us some feed back: How is the pedal behaving? etc...

wytbishop · Post by **wytbishop** » March 13th, 2007, 2:40 pm

My first thought on reading this thread was that the throw out bearing is so worn that it's getting cocked on the input shaft and sticking. This would explain the pedal not returning...and does require transmisson removal to check unfortunatelly. I experienced this very thing on an old Civic I had. When it does get unstuck and returns, the system bleeds as if nothing's wrong. Sometimes the bearing gets loose enough on the fork that it actually slides off the release lever...presto your clutch pedal is no longer connected to the clutch. Sounds crazy, but I've seen it happen.

I won't say for sure, but I would bet that the slave cyl is fine and that whatever's wrong is in the bell housing either with the throw out bearing or the clutch release lever...as crappy as that is.

wytbishop

xtreme velocity · Post by **xtreme velocity** » March 16th, 2007, 6:37 pm

ok..im to the point of taking the damn trany apart...i havnt had a car for 2 weeks now..and this i cant deal with..im about to loose my job..sucks...but i have asked everyone i kno and no1 seems to kno what is going on with my car...this seems like something that hasnt happened before and i kno it has...uugghh..i dont what to do guys..

i hate this..