what do you think about this engine?

aguiloco · Post by **aguiloco** » January 16th, 2007, 3:01 pm

hello, I find that KLZE, seeing the photos, could you think that it really has only 15.000 kms as the seller said to me?

here the photos:

http://www.aguiloco.com/klze.zip

Post by **Custommx3** » January 16th, 2007, 3:47 pm

Its a newer JDM engine.

I notice no EGR.
Has a JDM disty (single plug)
I notice the pipe running into the front VC is closed off like the newer KLs.
The power steering pump/tensioner is also different.
This may be one that has solid lifters too...

mx3autozam · Post by **mx3autozam** » January 16th, 2007, 4:34 pm

I've never seen that disty before and i've never see or heard about the pullies on the power steering pump!

Intresting

aguiloco · Post by **aguiloco** » January 17th, 2007, 12:50 am

custommx3, all that you say about that engine, is good or bad?

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » January 17th, 2007, 3:35 am

Looks like alot of rust on the pullies (means it has been sitting for awhile, not good). The PS pulley is the newer Mazda version. It has a small lip on the edge to help keep the belt from slipping off (not much but good). Common valve cover leak on the rear corner (nothing unusual). ZE curved neck intake (a good plus since you won't need to buy a US curved neck). I don't recognize that TB stamping, but it looks newer than the rest of the motor. Front valve cover is leaking pretty good and I don't see an oil filter. You will need to check for build-up of oil in by taking the oil fill cap off and using a flashlight to look down into the head. Brown stains are ok, any sludge looking stuff isn't. Also run your finger on the top of the inside of the front valve cover (through the oil fill cap). Then rub the oil residue between your fingers. If it feels gritty don't buy the motor. If you do buy it make sure to squirt some WD-40 in the soark plug holes before you start the motor. I'd also turn the motor a few times with the crank pulley so that you work the WD-40 along the cylinder walls before you crank it.
It is not the best ZE I've seenm, but about usual as far as they go. Nothing special except it is a newer version.

Post by **Custommx3** » January 17th, 2007, 9:41 am

I agree with pat. probelm is these days.. ZE's arent in production any more, so your gonna get a motor thats older, probably been sitting.

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » January 17th, 2007, 1:31 pm

my ze had rust on the manifold and on the sides but it turned out to be good, Cant judge an engine by its cover. Compression test is the way to go or ask them what were the cold or warm results. Usually they will write the numbers on the manifold.

aguiloco · Post by **aguiloco** » January 17th, 2007, 2:39 pm

I like that engine because the seller sure to me than it has 15000kms, the curved neck, and it has an automatic transmision (not included) than makes me think surely this engine had not used in racing driving style. I ask to the seller about compresion test, I will post it as soon as they give it to me.

Post by **Custommx3** » January 17th, 2007, 4:58 pm

Lower miles doesnt always mean better.

I'd rather have an engine with 50K that hasnt been sitting, than an engine with 10K thats sat for 9 years. Seals can become dry and crack, that will call for a rebuild.

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » January 17th, 2007, 6:31 pm

aguiloco wrote:I like that engine because the seller sure to me than it has 15000kms, the curved neck, and it has an automatic transmision (not included) than makes me think surely this engine had not used in racing driving style. I ask to the seller about compresion test, I will post it as soon as they give it to me.

I highly doubt it has that many k's. The motor looks like it was sitting for some time, but nothing out of the ordinary that I can see besides the throttlebody having a odd marking. Compression test will tell all. Another way I like to see how good a motor is by taking off the valvecover to look at the valvetrain, a dirty valvetrain can be a indication of a motor that didnt get its oil changes regularily.

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » January 17th, 2007, 7:33 pm

Yeah, neglect. That is why I suggested looking in the oil cap and rubbing the oil between your fingers. Like Bary said, the longer is has sat the more chance something has siezed or dryrotted. Either would mean a rebuild which is not anywhere near worth the price of the motor.

aguiloco · Post by **aguiloco** » January 18th, 2007, 1:26 am

that test using my fingers and eyes would be great, but I have to choose the engine from my house in Spain, and here there´s no engines like that on my contry... On the heads the engine have write KL-68, really is a ZE?

Post by **Custommx3** » January 18th, 2007, 9:30 am

this is what you do not want!!! Its called "engine coking". Its basically its from engine neglect, not changing oil, and crappy engine additives.

this pic is from a ZE we put in an MX-6. We did NOT use this engine. We called the supplier when we opened this up. We sent him pics, and all we ended up only having to pay shipping for a new motor. He ended up selling the motor for parts and got his shipping back. How's that for a free ZE, lucky sob.

Custom_V6_Limited_SE · January 18th, 2007, 11:32 am

Wow, I thought the quarter million mile K8 I pulled was bad; but that, that's just wrong.

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » January 18th, 2007, 11:35 am

There is no forum worthy funny pic to throw up for this pic. That is just terrible. It must have been one of those engines from the old Castrol commercials where they show how long a motor can run vs. some crappy oil. Crappy oil, 100,000 miles, no oil change at 7000 RPM and 100* room temp, no filter.