Need help with clutch replacement asap.
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mazdamx3sohc
- Regular Member
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Need help with clutch replacement asap.
so i am planning on putting in a new clutch today and im looking at the shop manual on how to replace it, but it doesnt give me any descriptions, only pictures, im looking for directions on removal what kind of gear lube will i need and how much if any? is there anywhere where i can find this information, i looked through the search and found nothing.
The manual uses around 4 quarts if i remember right. You can run just about anything to your hearts content in a mazda trans. Usually they come out of the facotry with Dexron or Gear oil pending application. I usually used Penzoil Syncromesh mixed with a few other things but it wears out faster than I would have liked.
The manual can give you a decent Idea on what to do. All in all this is a esay clutch job so you will be hard pressed to find really good detailed descriptions
http://www.mx-3.com/95manual/
The manual can give you a decent Idea on what to do. All in all this is a esay clutch job so you will be hard pressed to find really good detailed descriptions
http://www.mx-3.com/95manual/
-torp.
I don't own a Mazda.
I don't own a Mazda.
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Franko
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- Joined: September 2nd, 2002, 2:01 am
- Location: Newfoundland, Canada
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Ok... (deep breath)
Im gonna try and highlight important things because to type every step will take all day.
First, jack up your car put jackstands under it and take the front wheels off. Remove the axle nuts located in the center of each hub. They are huge you cant miss them. The problem here is you may need an impact gun to get these off because they can be BASTARDS! If they wont budge with the impact gun youll have to use a propane torch and heat the nut up then impact it again. It should come off with heat.
You then have to get the axels out of the hub, They are most likely stuck in the hub so you will have to tap them with a hammer to get them unseated. They wont come out completely yet because there is not enough room. Right above the hub below the strut you will notice two bolts going right through holding the hub onto the strut. I think they are 9/16 but I cant really remember.. Youll need a wrench on one side and either an impact gun on the other or a breaker bar to get these out. It might help to have someone in the car to turn the wheel so you can get to them easier. Once you get the nuts off thread them back on a little bit again and hit them with a hammer to help slide the bolts out.. I know there will probally be a bit of rust holding them in there. Once you have them out completely the hub should seperate from the strut and it will be just hanging there. At this point you have to try and get the cv axel out of the hub. Hopefully you got it freed up enough earlier to take it out by hand.. but its going to take alot of moving, turning of the wheel pushing and fighting to get it out. You will be enraged no doubt and it may seem impossible but its not.. they will come out. The procedure is the same for both sides so good luck with that.
Once an axle is out of the hub you have to get it out of the tranny.. The best way is with a pry bar but a big flat head screwdriver will do. The thing with these is they have a snap ring holding them into the diff so you have to pry them out. The best thing I find is to pry a little then spin the shaft, pry again and spin again.. and keep going like that and it will come out.. works every time. Gear oil will most likely come out of the diff holes so have a bucket ready. It STINKS!
Then its time to remove the transmission. Most is pretty obvious here. Youll want to take the slave cyl off the transmission for the clutch and anything else you can see. If youre inside it will be a good idea to have some way to hold the engine up, if you have a comealong or a engine hoist attach it to the rafters in the ceiling or something just to hold the engine since the transmission is a supporting part keeping the engine in the car.
Remove all the shifter linkage crap from the transmission, thats pretty easy.. and zip tie it up somewhere out of the way. Undo as many bolts as you can holding the transmission onto the engine.. Then remove the top mount of the transmission.. there are 3 bolts holding it on to the transmission but you may have to take the entire mount off. The battery and battery tray have to be removed to get at this mount. The battery tray itself actually bolts to the transmission mount. Then all thats left is the crossmember. There a 4 huge bolts holding it on the car, two under the radiator and two.. well.. Holding the other half of the crossmember on. You will not be able to do this alone by the way, you will probally break all your fingers, thumbs and your legs. Anyway, the crossmember has two of the three mounts holding the transmission in place so when you take those bolts out there is nothing holding the transmission but the engine. If you cant get at some of the bolts because of the crossmember being in the way still being held on by the mounts you can take it off alltogethor by taking the nuts off the bottom of the mounts. At this stage you should have the engine being held up by the engine hoist and most of the bolts out of the transmission that hold it on.
Once all the bolts are out, and youre SURE they are all out, seperate the housing from the engine with a pry bar.. You might have to jiggle it a bit to get it to seperate but it will do it. Then you will need another person to help you get that bastard out because there is not much room, its alkward and heavy.. I think you can pretty much figure out what to do from here, get it out take the old clutch off and I recommend taking your flywheel off too and get it resurfaced. If it looks allright.. I.E. No rainbowy heat spots, scors or marks in it then it should be fine.. If its screwed up then it would be best to get it redone.. it should only be like 50 bucks or something and you will know that it wont give you a problem. You also might want to change the oil seal under the flywheel. Because its cheap and easy to replace and if you dont and it leaks oil onto your clutch it WILL RUIN IT! It might even be the reason your clutch is gone now. Just ask for the oil seal that goes behind the flywheel at the mazda dealership. Pry the old one out and push the new one in.. pretty simple. You might want to put a new throw out bearing on too just because.. you have it apart anyway..
Anyway, Put the flywheel back on, put the alignment tool in to center the clutch and then bolt the pressure plate onto it. Then basically its reverse of the removal. Just a heads up.. It will be a BASTARD to get the spline in the center of the transmission to mate into the disc but it will go.. itll just take alot of wiggling.. once you have it seated good.. put a few bolts back in to hold it onto the engine and bolt either the mount on the top again or put the crossmember back on. You should be able to take it from there. Put the cv shafts back in, and put them back into the hub which will once again be a b---- and you can put the axle nut back on.. Impact it on and then use a chisel and hammer to put a dent into it like it was done before.
Take the speedo gear out and fill up the transmission with new gear oil.. Just put a tad extra then what came out just to be safe.
Basically just put stuff back togethor and then youre done.
A few key things to remember are:
- The pry bar is your friend!
-Propane torches are helpful.
-If you have to hit a bolt with a hammer, thread a nut on it and hit the nut so you wont mess up the threads on the bolt.
-JACKSTANDS! You dont want to get crushed under a 3000 pound mazda.
-Make a friend and convince him to help you.
-Clutches have a BREAK IN PEROID! For gods sakes, read what you have to do so you dont screw it up! Usually its 500 km of city driving.. Highway driving is not breaking in a clutch.. Stop and go is what its all about.
I think thats everything.. Hope I was helpful...
Im gonna try and highlight important things because to type every step will take all day.
First, jack up your car put jackstands under it and take the front wheels off. Remove the axle nuts located in the center of each hub. They are huge you cant miss them. The problem here is you may need an impact gun to get these off because they can be BASTARDS! If they wont budge with the impact gun youll have to use a propane torch and heat the nut up then impact it again. It should come off with heat.
You then have to get the axels out of the hub, They are most likely stuck in the hub so you will have to tap them with a hammer to get them unseated. They wont come out completely yet because there is not enough room. Right above the hub below the strut you will notice two bolts going right through holding the hub onto the strut. I think they are 9/16 but I cant really remember.. Youll need a wrench on one side and either an impact gun on the other or a breaker bar to get these out. It might help to have someone in the car to turn the wheel so you can get to them easier. Once you get the nuts off thread them back on a little bit again and hit them with a hammer to help slide the bolts out.. I know there will probally be a bit of rust holding them in there. Once you have them out completely the hub should seperate from the strut and it will be just hanging there. At this point you have to try and get the cv axel out of the hub. Hopefully you got it freed up enough earlier to take it out by hand.. but its going to take alot of moving, turning of the wheel pushing and fighting to get it out. You will be enraged no doubt and it may seem impossible but its not.. they will come out. The procedure is the same for both sides so good luck with that.
Once an axle is out of the hub you have to get it out of the tranny.. The best way is with a pry bar but a big flat head screwdriver will do. The thing with these is they have a snap ring holding them into the diff so you have to pry them out. The best thing I find is to pry a little then spin the shaft, pry again and spin again.. and keep going like that and it will come out.. works every time. Gear oil will most likely come out of the diff holes so have a bucket ready. It STINKS!
Then its time to remove the transmission. Most is pretty obvious here. Youll want to take the slave cyl off the transmission for the clutch and anything else you can see. If youre inside it will be a good idea to have some way to hold the engine up, if you have a comealong or a engine hoist attach it to the rafters in the ceiling or something just to hold the engine since the transmission is a supporting part keeping the engine in the car.
Remove all the shifter linkage crap from the transmission, thats pretty easy.. and zip tie it up somewhere out of the way. Undo as many bolts as you can holding the transmission onto the engine.. Then remove the top mount of the transmission.. there are 3 bolts holding it on to the transmission but you may have to take the entire mount off. The battery and battery tray have to be removed to get at this mount. The battery tray itself actually bolts to the transmission mount. Then all thats left is the crossmember. There a 4 huge bolts holding it on the car, two under the radiator and two.. well.. Holding the other half of the crossmember on. You will not be able to do this alone by the way, you will probally break all your fingers, thumbs and your legs. Anyway, the crossmember has two of the three mounts holding the transmission in place so when you take those bolts out there is nothing holding the transmission but the engine. If you cant get at some of the bolts because of the crossmember being in the way still being held on by the mounts you can take it off alltogethor by taking the nuts off the bottom of the mounts. At this stage you should have the engine being held up by the engine hoist and most of the bolts out of the transmission that hold it on.
Once all the bolts are out, and youre SURE they are all out, seperate the housing from the engine with a pry bar.. You might have to jiggle it a bit to get it to seperate but it will do it. Then you will need another person to help you get that bastard out because there is not much room, its alkward and heavy.. I think you can pretty much figure out what to do from here, get it out take the old clutch off and I recommend taking your flywheel off too and get it resurfaced. If it looks allright.. I.E. No rainbowy heat spots, scors or marks in it then it should be fine.. If its screwed up then it would be best to get it redone.. it should only be like 50 bucks or something and you will know that it wont give you a problem. You also might want to change the oil seal under the flywheel. Because its cheap and easy to replace and if you dont and it leaks oil onto your clutch it WILL RUIN IT! It might even be the reason your clutch is gone now. Just ask for the oil seal that goes behind the flywheel at the mazda dealership. Pry the old one out and push the new one in.. pretty simple. You might want to put a new throw out bearing on too just because.. you have it apart anyway..
Anyway, Put the flywheel back on, put the alignment tool in to center the clutch and then bolt the pressure plate onto it. Then basically its reverse of the removal. Just a heads up.. It will be a BASTARD to get the spline in the center of the transmission to mate into the disc but it will go.. itll just take alot of wiggling.. once you have it seated good.. put a few bolts back in to hold it onto the engine and bolt either the mount on the top again or put the crossmember back on. You should be able to take it from there. Put the cv shafts back in, and put them back into the hub which will once again be a b---- and you can put the axle nut back on.. Impact it on and then use a chisel and hammer to put a dent into it like it was done before.
Take the speedo gear out and fill up the transmission with new gear oil.. Just put a tad extra then what came out just to be safe.
Basically just put stuff back togethor and then youre done.
A few key things to remember are:
- The pry bar is your friend!
-Propane torches are helpful.
-If you have to hit a bolt with a hammer, thread a nut on it and hit the nut so you wont mess up the threads on the bolt.
-JACKSTANDS! You dont want to get crushed under a 3000 pound mazda.
-Make a friend and convince him to help you.
-Clutches have a BREAK IN PEROID! For gods sakes, read what you have to do so you dont screw it up! Usually its 500 km of city driving.. Highway driving is not breaking in a clutch.. Stop and go is what its all about.
I think thats everything.. Hope I was helpful...
93 MX3, BP, Haltech E6X, Bully Six Puck Clutch, Pauter Rods, Wiseco Pistons, Port and Polish, Turbonetics T3/T4 Ball Bearing turbo and a partridge in a pear tree.
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atlantamx3
- Supporting Member
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- Joined: June 2nd, 2001, 2:01 am
- Location: Kennesaw, Ga, USA
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ya props franko that write-up was really good. Better than the chilton's one.
another thing you might want to replace is the pilot bearing, since you've got everything apart already. I think it was like $12 or something.
Good luck with the clutch. If you can borrow an air compressor and air tools from someone, DO IT. Makes the job 10x easier for those tough times... I know my air hammer saved me enough times
another thing you might want to replace is the pilot bearing, since you've got everything apart already. I think it was like $12 or something.
Good luck with the clutch. If you can borrow an air compressor and air tools from someone, DO IT. Makes the job 10x easier for those tough times... I know my air hammer saved me enough times
1993 1.6L SOHC. Mazdaspeed mounts, BP09 ECU, BP VAF, Fidanza miata flywheel, exedy miata pressure plate, centerforce mx3 disc, tokico struts, B&G lowering springs, and some sh***y motomaster tires.
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mazdamx3sohc
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- Joined: April 8th, 2006, 9:21 am
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