engine oil

[patto]

hay guys just wondering wot sortu oil and filters your all using and at wot intervles your doing it at. I was told to use mobile xhp plus by rotomotion have u gays heard of them i couldnt find that so i used super xhp 15w40 and changed it every 5k. now i carnt get a strait answer out of any one some say it is and some say it isnt is it bad for your engine to change your oil to often say like every 1k i can not see how this would be a bad thing to have fresh oil in your engine all the time.im interested to see wot u all think

[hgallegos915]

hmm i have always used 10w 40 here in hot texas. I do have a habbit of changing every 2000 -2500 miles. Non synthetic. Synthetic is the way to go specially up north.

[Jay72]

...Synthetic is the way to go specially up north.

Curious why synthetic would be better to use up north?

[hgallegos915]

well doesnt synthetic not become more thick in cold temps? is it just a myth that i may have heard? The colder the weather the thinner, autozone states colder weather beter synthetic.. but then again it IS autozone. I heard tons of stories but that one seems more realistic since cold oil takes longet to reach heads?

[mitmaks]

i use 10w30 Castrol with anything BUT FRAM filter

[hgallegos915]

why not fram.. thats what i use lol

[mr1in6billion]

Bosch Filter
Red Line Oil
Waste of money to change every 1k miles. 2500 if you drive really hard. 5000 if your're normal.

[Tunes67]

Lots of good info in this thread about oils & synthetics..

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... 0&start=15

I run Amsoil 10-30W in both my RS and GS my truck gets Delo 400 10-40W since it doesnt see a lot of miles.. with Napa gold oil filters. There are 2 basic types of oil filters.. ones with high amounts of filtration material to keep oil cleaner longer and ones with less filtration material so that oil flows faster through the filter. The faster flowing filters are usually used for race applications and they can get changed out often.. for your typical daily driver.. most people go with one with a lot of filtration material so that the oil stays cleaner longer. Napa Gold oil filters are very good for this. I check my oil at least once a week.. and I change my oil every 5000 miles OR sooner if the oil gets dark on the dipstick.

Tunes67

P.S. FRAM filters have very little filtration material in them.. this isnt because their filters are supposed to be used for race applications.. its because their company is run by a bunch of cheap money grubbing bastages that dont care if you ruin your engine or not.

[neumann]

Lots of good info in this thread about oils & synthetics..

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... 0&start=15

There is also lots of wrong info in that thread

Mobil1 is a Group IV PAO synthetic, probably (has varied over time) with a small component of Group V Esters.

It may be fair to categorize Castrol Syntec as "not full synthetic" as it is a Group III oil. Saying that Group III oils "are the lowest cost synthetics to produce" is maybe a reasonable statement but "generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils" not so much. The rational reaction against a Group III like Castrol marketed as full synthetic is based on price. Most Group III oils are excellent oils for any applications and perform as well as Group IV or V. They just ought to cost less.

Describing Group I oils in as "typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils" is neither literally true nor particularly helpful. One of the huge changes of the last couple of years is that Group I oils which only 5 years or so ago dominiated motor oil formulations have become increasingly rare. It is fair to say that many inexpensive oils today are largely Group II or Blends incorporating Group II and Group III this is a very recent phenomenon and largely caused by the requirements of oils to meet current and recent standards like API SL and SM, and ILSAC GF-4. It has never been harder to find a bad quality motor oil. Still you can end up with the wrong grade, and actually impede oil flow because you think you need a heavy oil. Ironically the 5w20 are often the best quality grade within a given brand of PCMOs simply because the API test to meet the energy conserving standard for SM 5w20 is tough.

But yeah for Australia, where people seem to love heavy oils in the heat 15w40 is a reasonable grade. The 15w40 are generally good oils as they tend to be HDEO with robust additive packages. I actually have blended 15w40 and 5w20 to get something vaguely in the range of a 10w30 but with the qualitative advantages of the component oils. Obsessive and probably pointless but fun.

For my Canadian winter car, I run 5w30 conventional oil in my MX-3 and have changed it far more frequently than necessary, about every 3K km. I only drive it about 5-6K km a year so i really could get away with once a year. I have moved to once a year OCI on my Porsche, about 8K km on a group IV synthetic 0w40.

The regular Fram filters are generally a poorly made, premium priced product. Again, not likely to do damage to your engine, just heavily advertised medocrity.

[mitmaks]

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index ... 436.0.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/fram-oi ... light=fram