KLZE Internal Components - final pic added

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » August 2nd, 2006, 10:43 pm

johnnyb wrote:if you need to do rings you don't need to take the engine out.

Just pull the heads and the oil pan and do it that way. Saves pulling the motor out.

You're going to want to get the cylinders honed, though. I'd suggest getting it done professionally, which would pretty much mean pulling the block.

babyblueMX3 · Post by **babyblueMX3** » August 3rd, 2006, 8:09 am

If you want to replace the springs, I'd get Interprep valve spring as they go for around 200$ for the set. Probably cheaper than oem and double the pressure ( I had them tested). They only have DE "style" springs though (klze intake spring is wider and shorter). NO worries there. Just grab any klde retainers and put them on. Klze intake retainers are known to fail often (happen to me and a zillion other guys out there). Get the Mystique 2.5L valve seals. Different design and are WAY better than oem. They are held in place by the pressure of the spring. It's kind of like a "hat" design were the base is squeezed under the spring. Hit me up with a pm if you want pics of that. Stock valves are good enough

so I would go :
Interprep valve springs
Mystique 2.5L valve seals
stock klde valves (intake and exhaust)
stock klde retainers
klze intake hla's (from millenia 2.5L) and any klde exhaust hla's

btw a solid lifter has to be used with a solid cam lifter.

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » August 3rd, 2006, 10:31 am

Well I'm sure the cylinder walls are fine since I've only put on around $20,000km since last looking at them. They were still in excellent condition at that time. Obviously, I will check it again if I pull the heads.

Great advice on the valve components. I remembered the solid lifters were not a good idea for my setup when I was home last night. If and when I rebuild the heads, I will try to spruce up any HLAs that need help, and replace any that can't be fixed. Since I already have '95 Millenia valve stem seals, I will use those on the rebuild. They should be good enough. I take good care of my car with good sythetic fluids and proper oil change periods, so the new seals should last just fine. Those Interprep Springs should be a good idea, especially with adding a couple pony points in the higher rpm band. I'll let the machine shop deside what valves are good or bad but let them know what valves to use for replacement. I don't have any machining equipment nore the experience.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » August 3rd, 2006, 10:48 am

wyldside wrote:Well I'm sure the cylinder walls are fine since I've only put on around $20,000km since last looking at them. They were still in excellent condition at that time. Obviously, I will check it again if I pull the heads.

I'm sure they're 'fine'. But they're not ready to help seat a new set of rings unless they're honed.

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » August 3rd, 2006, 12:26 pm

true... but I'm not even sure I will need to do rings at this point. Unfortunately $$$ is an issue and I would like to avoid pulling the pistons unless the rings are at fault. Doing that is like opening a big can of worms. While I rip the engine out, I might as well change the clutch. While the engine is out, I might as well change the driveshafts/CV assemblies too (replace with Raxles). That would also be a good time to change all the bushings and fill the mounts, etc, etc, etc. So you can see it would get quite expensive. Don't get me wrong. I'm not trying to debate the issue with you. I realize that if something needs doing, it should be done right and not half a--. More than likely, I may end up pulling the car off the road for a few months and rebuild it.

Might make for a good winter project though. Better start hunting for a winter beater to drive.

Oh and I forgot to update on the Seafoam job. It seemed to clean out a lot of crap. I sucked up half a can through the vacuum line and let it sit for 10mins before restart. I put 1 whole can into the engine oil and ran it for 30mins with a good rev every 10mins to circulate it around the full engine. Did an oil change and took it for a spin. The idle seemed to be quite a bit quieter and power improved slightly. It still has a slight pop in the exhaust occasionally on gear shifts so I think a valve is definitely sticking. I will observe the oil usage over the next 2 days and do a compression test on Friday for "shlts and giggles".

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » August 8th, 2006, 2:14 pm

Well after driving the car over the weekend, I have a better idea if things have improved or not. First off, the car is still blowing crap out of the exhaust (smoke and soot). Oil consumption has increased by 50%. Fuel ecconomy has dropped. Compression unchanged. I think there is nothing more I can do but rebuild the heads. Oh Goodie!!!

Since I can't really afford the costs of refilling this thing with oil, she'll be off the road for a little while, probably right on until next spring.

Do yourself a favor and don't buy a KLZE from JDM Source. Someone else in our club bought an engine from there and had one of the cams spin from the gear or pulley (don't remember exactly). Luckly he installed his engine within days of getting it so he was able to get it replaced. Mine has been in for a year since I took my time cleaning it up and getting parts. So obviously they won't help me. I didn't even drive it hard. I guess I was just unlucky. Damn this sucks!

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 22nd, 2007, 5:56 pm

Okay, here's the latest and greatest news. The engine has now been completely disassembled. Heads will be getting rebuilt, but that's not the issue I'm worried about. I need new Pistons. The top edge of the pistons are slightly beveled and need replacing. Fortunately the cylinders are fine with absolutely Zero wear. No ridge at all. All the bearings have also died too but the crank is ok.

My questions:
1. Where to get OEM KLZE Pistons? I have seen these on Corksport's site but I have not heard anything about them. Link

2. Will any rings work for these?

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 23rd, 2007, 9:07 am

I have to quit asking such difficult questions.

1992blazeredgs · Post by **1992blazeredgs** » January 23rd, 2007, 10:57 am

Unfortunately, i dont know that you can buy new klze pistons anymore. I could be wrong but i have not heard of anybody selling them for a while. The easiest and cheapest route for you might be finding somebody that is parting out, and buy some used pistons off them.
As for the rings, anyset of klde rings will work. You make the call how much you want to spend.

Nate

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 23rd, 2007, 12:37 pm

That really sucks... I really don't have the $$$$ for custom forged either. I have contacted Corksport, I hope they get back to me soon.

Zoso124 · Post by **Zoso124** » January 28th, 2007, 11:37 pm

What was your compression across each cylinder before you started pouring oil down your spark plug holes? I apologize if I missed this.

If your blowing smoke out the exhaust while pulling out of a dead stop this usually means the rings and cylinder walls are shot. If that is the case, not knowing how much longer you plan on driving this car, but if think you may have to rebuild the bottom end, I would just buy another ZE. Way cheaper and easier. If your rings are shot, honing and new rings won't be the cure. Your cylinder walls are woren and you would need to have them re-bored meaning new pistons which aren't going to be cheap.

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 29th, 2007, 12:07 am

The compression was around 160 to 180psi across. Now that the engine is completely apart, we have fully measured and inspected everything. Using an inside micrometer we measured the cylinder bore for size and out of round. They are perfect. Virtually no wear at all. You can still see the factory hatch lines on the cylinder walls. There is also no ridge at the top of the cylinder. The pistons and rings are what bit the dust (along with a valve stem seal). Most of the pistons are top beveled around the top. They would still work but I might as well replace them with that much wear on them (and besides, everything is out now, so I might as well just do it). They also have a nasty extra crispy baked on layer of carbon and oil on them. The rings were a bit gummed up and worn but those are getting replaced anyways since they are the most obvious loss of compression. Corksport has managed to source me a set of brand new stock-bore KLZE pistons. He said this is the first time he's ordered stock-bore KLZE pistons. Anyways, the pistons are no longer an issue once I get those. Hopefully the compression will still be the same with DE piston rings. The crank shaft is in excellent condition as well but the bearings are definitely worn. So those will be replaced. The reason I am not getting another KLZE instead is because I hate to see something go to waste and the chances of getting another crap ZE are quite high. A lot of people around here have been getting bad ZE engines lately. It's about a 25% chance of finding a good one, and I don't feel like gambling on that. I'd rather just rebuild it right, and then I know it's good. I think that's a good reason for my decision.

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 30th, 2007, 4:04 pm

Okay, here's an update on what's happening. I've got a few initial components on order. I'll take some photos once they arrive.

*Stock Bore KLZE Pistons 10.1:1 compression 84.5mm with wrist pins (from Corksport)

*Ross Rings - 6 sets of Piston Rings R3330 (from importperformanceparts.net)

*Toga Bearings - mains (MBMA15-HP) and rod bearings (RBMA10HP) (from importperformanceparts.net)

*Thrust Washer set TWMA10 (from importperformanceparts.net)

I'm on a tight budget, so these will at least get me started on rebuilding the block. The next items to order will be:

*Adjusa Head bolts (I really should replace mine, especially since they've already been used twice)

*Toga HP Gasket set CG5MA15HP

*Outlaw Gasket set (still undecided on these)

*Head Components:
~ Valve Spring Retainers ('96 Millenia 2.5L)
~ Retainer Locks ('96 Millenia 2.5L)
~ Interprep Valve Springs
~ Valve stem seals ('95 Millenia 2.5L) Already have these
Machine shop can order anything else that needs replacing.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

1992blazeredgs · Post by **1992blazeredgs** » January 30th, 2007, 8:19 pm

Seems like a solid build to me. Only suggestion i can make is maybe think about a new oil pump since you have everything apart. Other than that good work.

Nate

wyldside · Post by **wyldside** » January 30th, 2007, 9:01 pm

If oil pumps weren't around $300USD I would. Unless you know of somewhere that supplies them for a nice price.