Crank Angle Sensor

[ninjajim4]

is that the same as the crank angle sensor?

it checks out ok with an ohm meter, but i was wondering if anyone could tell me what sort of readings i should get from the 3 pin terminal on the harness that plugs into the sensor.

thanks

[XxantwawnxX]

Yes its the same thing, if its bad u will get a code. When mine was bad my car stil ran..but it suddered here and there and idled a tad bit funny...did not figure out what it was till i pulled the code.

[Custommx3]

The online manual has all the diags for that.

BTW there are 2 Crank angle sensors.

One by the crank, the other is in the disty.

[ninjajim4]

The online manual has all the diags for that.

BTW there are 2 Crank angle sensors.

One by the crank, the other is in the disty.

well.. like i said, i did test the sensor itself and it was within spec. but i am trying to figure out what sort of voltage etc. i should be getting from the terminal that plugs into the sensor, but i didnt see any info in the manual in regards to that. i am worried about a wiring problem

[ariesdude]

the 3 pin terminal on the harness that plugs into the sensor.

For the distributor - three pin terminal is for the ignition coil (and tach feed). The five pin connector has connections for ignition module and the cam angle sensor.

[lakersfan1]

Did you get any codes out of the K8 computer?

Did you try starting on the other computer?

[ninjajim4]

the 3 pin terminal on the harness that plugs into the sensor.

For the distributor - three pin terminal is for the ignition coil (and tach feed). The five pin connector has connections for ignition module and the cam angle sensor.

i was looking for what sort of voltage readings i should get on the 3 pin terminal that goes down to the CRANK position sensor, not the cam sensor. since i've swapped the disty out for a new one, i'm going to assume the cam sensor is ok

[ninjajim4]

Did you get any codes out of the K8 computer?

Did you try starting on the other computer?

ok put the K8 in tonight and tried it out. same results. but something funny is going on. if i'm not mistaken when you turn the key to accessory, all the lights should go on, including the CEL.. but the CEL is only dimly lit, like my battery's dying (i got it fully charged yesterday). but all the other lights (oil, brake, etc) are brightly lit. if i turn the key to ignition without holding down the clutch, then the CEL lights up fully. but other than that, its still dimly lit.

putting it in diagnostic mode yields the same results, with no CEL flashing at all.

another thing that seems weird is sometimes when i turn the car off and pull the key out, all the red lights on dash (again oil, brake, seatbelt) still stay very dimly lit.

i'm guessing all this points to a short somewhere..?

[Custommx3]

Im assuming so.

BTW
I made a correction to my earlier post.

"One by the crank, the other is in the disty."

I said it was between the heads, but I was thinking knock sensor, but that was in correct. The CAS is by the crank pulley, the other CAS is in the disty.

[lakersfan1]

Im assuming so.

BTW
I made a correction to my earlier post.

"One by the crank, the other is in the disty."

I said it was between the heads, but I was thinking knock sensor, but that was in correct. The CAS is by the crank pulley, the other CAS is in the disty.

The one in the disty is a cam angle sensor, the one by the crank pulley is the crank position sensor.

[Custommx3]

Actually, mazda calls them Crank angle sensor # 1 and crank angle sensor #2.

Even though its called different things in different places in the manual.

Yes they are different and you are also correct.

[lakersfan1]

Actually, mazda calls them Crank angle sensor # 1 and crank angle sensor #2.

Even though its called different things in different places in the manual.

Yes they are different and you are also correct.

Then Mazda is stupid. The one in the disty doesn't directly measure crank angle. It does so vis-a-vis a belt. And even if the belt, tensioner, and other tolerances were all 100%, then if you decked the heads, the angle would still be off anyways.

[Lesley]

Thanks for clearing that up... I've had my mx for two months and just replaced the disty since I was getting the same code. Two days later, you guessed it, CEL again. An RX7 friend has a code reader, we're going to see if the code is the same. If so, I'm assuming it must be the crank sensor instead of the cam sensor in the distributor, which is what I originally thought.

[ninjajim4]

Im assuming so.

BTW
I made a correction to my earlier post.

"One by the crank, the other is in the disty."

I said it was between the heads, but I was thinking knock sensor, but that was in correct. The CAS is by the crank pulley, the other CAS is in the disty.

i got it!!! there was a broken ground wire on the knock sensor you were talking about. it was the cause of both the weird dashlights and my no spark problem. never woulda found it without switching back to the K8 ECU and isolating this as a shorting problem.

man electrical problems blow!!

[jschrauwen]

Im assuming so.
BTW
I made a correction to my earlier post.
"One by the crank, the other is in the disty."
I said it was between the heads, but I was thinking knock sensor, but that was in correct. The CAS is by the crank pulley, the other CAS is in the disty.

i got it!!! there was a broken ground wire on the knock sensor you were talking about. it was the cause of both the weird dashlights and my no spark problem. never woulda found it without switching back to the K8 ECU and isolating this as a shorting problem.
man electrical problems blow!!

Glad you got that squared away Jim. I just had to check my Crank Angle Sensor 2 myself to confirm resistance is within tolerances ...and it was. I couldn't find anything in the manual to indicate a test for a certain voltage from that 3 wire connector though.....sorry.

Actually, mazda calls them Crank angle sensor # 1 and crank angle sensor #2.
Even though its called different things in different places in the manual.
Yes they are different and you are also correct.

Now I have to confirm the integrity of the Crank Angle Sensor 1 (disty). Although the manual shows to do that one has to remove the disty, turn it by hand, use special Mazda SST yadda yadda yadda... Is there a way to check the integrity of that sensor without removing the disty. My Megasquirt problems may be stemming from a lack of signal from either one. And since the Crank Angle Sensor 2 is within tolerances all that's left is to verify #1. Car runs fine at this point on other KL31 ECU so I don't know if there are tell tale signs that the Crank Angle Sensor #1 is faulty in the first place. Any ideas / suggestions how one can do this?