Compatible Engines

V6 Technical/Performance Discussions
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Nd4SpdSe
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Re: The plot thickens . . .

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

illapino wrote:Do most KLZEs come with clutch and ECU? Or do I have to hunt for those completely separately?

And then how much goes to the mechanic for installing it?

I haven't reached 30 posts yet to post a [WTB] but those in BC, please point me out to my KLZE
They don't normally come with clutches. Some places who install them put an "OEM" or a "JDM" clutch, they are pieces of crap and dont hold well. You don't normally get ECU's with the motors. The recommended (although lately this has been arguably wrong because of the VRIS ponts) is the KL31 or KL36 ECU's With those ECU's, you keep your stock (JE50) VAF. The problem is that are can be hard to find, and kinda expensive. Another alternative I believe is the ECU/VAF combo from a KLDE (I don't know their numbers off hand). Since it's local parts, you should be able to get both for cheaper than a KLZE ECU.

Labor cost depends on who you talk to, there's no way for us to give you an idea, it depends on who does it and what they feel like charging.

Check out the MX-West forum and website, they should be able to point you to what you need.
illapino wrote: I noticed that some may be made for Automatic transmission. How specific should I be when choosing a KLZE? Make sure its a certain year (because I read that 94 and ups have a different number of sensor holes or something)?
It doesn't matter if it's for automatic or manual. Basically I believe you don't want anything newer than 98, I think that's when they changed it to a lower-output KLZE. There one you kinda want is the curved neck KLZE. Makes the install easier because the other KLZE's with the straight neck intake manifold cause clearance issues, unless you use the old intake manifold off your stock engine, it fits, just restricts power.. You'll have to search, there are many many many threads on how to identify a KLZE. As for sensors, they're all the same, nothing needs to be changed.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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illapino
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JDMs

Post by illapino »

I've found a motorsports shop, independent Mazda specialists here in my city. They say JDMs usually come in beat up. In those 50 000 km, the Japanese crank the s--- out of them. When the customer gets them they're often in really bad shape and need replacements inside... I'll be talking more with them when the other technician is in next week. I like this car
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kiwi_MX3
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Re: JDMs

Post by kiwi_MX3 »

illapino wrote:I've found a motorsports shop, independent Mazda specialists here in my city. They say JDMs usually come in beat up. In those 50 000 km, the Japanese crank the shat out of them. When the customer gets them they're often in really bad shape and need replacements inside... I'll be talking more with them when the other technician is in next week. I like this car

Now speaking from experince, and having lived in japan at Okinawa
the japanese don't lean that hard on the motor that at 50,000km's

and you really need to do some learning.

I currently have and are stripping down a motor thats done 250,000km's
and its very tidy on the inside for pressures and clearances.

So here is Matt's guide to buying a junk yard motor.

Invest in a leak down tester, these will tell you the condition of the
ring's and valves.

Look at the coolant connection's they should be clean inside no staining
pull the thermostat if you think someone has "hand cleaned" the motor.
if they don't let you don't buy simple as that

pull all the plugs and turn the motor over with a socket set, should be
fairly free with no "snaching"
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Flinch
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HONDA?

Post by Flinch »

lol what somone wants another B16A lol, sorry to say but they spin the rong way they are entierley backwords in the workings unless you got the tranny as well but i still dont think it would work. If you can find one get a BPT GTX/GTR they are allot easier to swap than the KLZE. Thats if you cna find one and i just so happen to know where.
-KL31 stock internals with curved neck intake manifold and KL36 ecu
-Turbo running 7.5psi
-FMI 3"x12"x32" all alluminum and welded, have a 7.5 PSI spring she just creeps on cold nights
-ACT 6puck sprung/96 probe tranny
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-HEI and MSD 6al (makes a big difference when you spend the 65$ ont he right spark plugs)
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mxmaz
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Re: HONDA?

Post by mxmaz »

Flinch wrote:If you can find one get a BPT GTX/GTR they are allot easier to swap than the KLZE. Thats if you cna find one and i just so happen to know where.
WTF? The klze is bolt on, doesnt get any easier then that. Swapping a bpt in a v6 would be a big pain in the a-- to say the least. Not to mention way more expensive.
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

illapino, get in touch with Taras. Do a search on that name for specifics. he lives on the Island too, Victoria. Knows his way around a ZE, is very connected to sources of all types and can direct you witha great deal of honesty and integrity. Try emailing him.
As far as you experiencing "lethargic" performance. First, if your not mechanically inclined and do not know your way around the K-series engine bay than i'd say to take it to the Mazda shop, ask them to take it fora quick test ride and see what kind of feedback you get. No committal at this point for anything. Driving in the city in 5th @ under 2,000 rpm..... or course it feels lazy. You're way out of it's potential power band. The K series engines love to rev fairly high in comparison to other engines. I would never even come close to revving my old Celica 22RE engine anywhere near a K series engine. 4, 5 and even 6 thousand rpm are still a safe area to play in. My normal highway cruising rpm is usually 4,000 to 4,250/4,500 rpm which is based on the MX3 tranny. I do however think there may be some issues with your engine that is giving it less power than what you're experiencing. It's as if it's almost in "limp mode" (try a search on that too). Some of those questions about sourcing engines, what to look for, how to shop for, identifying features, do's and do not's about the engine swapping process is all already posted in various threads in here. There is tons of info that will require at a very least a days reading to sift through to make yourself somewhat conversant arounf the the K series engines. Why spend all of that time researching????? - simply because there are dishonest people out there that prey upon peoples ignorance and gullability. Why else??? - becuse there are variations and options available to one when it comes to sourcing an engine as far as other side issues that need to be or SHOULD be done or condidered when it does come closer to a reality. Things link including other expenses at the time of install so as to prevent any short sightedness down the road. Things like, including, a new clutch, possibility resurfacing the flywheel or buying a newer lighter one. Doing a complete engine clean prior to install. Ensuring you have the correct coolant filler neck assembly, possibly redoing the engine mounts, upgrading the shifter and accompanying control arm bushings, the choice of retaining EGR or not, which ecu/vaf combo you want to use, which intake manifold you like to use, changing the timing belt (even though it may be a low mileage engine this would give you almost 100,000 km's of worry free driving in that department because it's never a 100% guarantee that the sourced engine's "claimed mileage" is always true) and ancilliary belts. So you see, it's best to be forwarned that although you may think it could or may be just a simple engine swap, there are other issues that you should at least make yourself aware of and possibly consider. All of those considerations are geared towards possibly preventing future heartaches and expenses when one would say to themselves ... "I wish I knew that when I was doing this install". You wouldn't be the first and you won't be the last to experience first hand the hindsight is 20/20.
So read, read, read and be a sponge to everything surrounding and engine swap/install. Taras, wil help you in the direction you need to go once you've been enlightened as to all of the nuances surrounding this venture. g/l
John
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Nd4SpdSe
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Re: HONDA?

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

mxmaz wrote:
Flinch wrote:If you can find one get a BPT GTX/GTR they are allot easier to swap than the KLZE. Thats if you cna find one and i just so happen to know where.
WTF? The klze is bolt on, doesnt get any easier then that. Swapping a bpt in a v6 would be a big pain in the a-- to say the least. Not to mention way more expensive.
Lol, I agree totally. I don't know how or where you can get the idea that putting a KLZE into a V6 Mx-3 is harder than a BP/BPT...It's like swapping out stock, mxmaz said it, you can't get any easier than that, you replace it like it was the stock K8
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project
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Vanished
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Post by Vanished »

Ah yes, another quality J-Beef post. well done friend, well done.
1992 Blaze MX-3 GS *R.I.P.*

1993 Blue 93 SE-ZE

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illapino
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Post by illapino »

What is it about the Precidia that makes me so obsessed... the great handling? the lightness? . . . not a porsche, not a honda, not even a mazda, just . . . precidia i love.

KLZE does 200hp... same as new 2007 honda sedans...
makes me wanna right a poem for precidia... *sigh*... i love this car :oops:
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