UH OH!!!

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » May 26th, 2006, 8:18 pm

Here we go, just blew some more money, lol
Bought a pretty big front mount from a buddy for 100.00 bucks, looks CLEAN! Going to get it mounted tomorrow, and see how it looks. I have a blow off valve already....

Looks like now I HAVE to turbo the ZE......

All I need now are manifolds, turbo, and intercooler plumbing. Did I just make a mistake, or will this car be decently quick with a ZE turbo? I want to run 8 pounds for starters.....
Would it be possible to run a super 16g hahn racecraft turbo?

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » May 26th, 2006, 8:58 pm

ebay has some cheap probe gt manifolds that need minimal cut, iw as doing it but i ahd to do a SUPER tune up first.. cant go boost without tunning right :S

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » May 26th, 2006, 10:12 pm

I mean turbo manifolds, they sell on ebay for cheap? I always thought that was the most expensive part of turboing these cars.....

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » May 26th, 2006, 10:21 pm

well 250 - 300 i could consider cheap , everywhere else tghey are like 600 and up. look uo frobe gt turbo and ull find the pipes.

Custom_V6_Limited_SE · May 26th, 2006, 10:42 pm

I think 8 psi on a ZE is a little high to start out with. 1 or 2 psi would probably be better to start out with. This way, you can see how it runs and work on the tuning before you blow it up

. A stand-alone engine managment system like MegaSquirt would be a great help for tuning purposes. Also, you may want to research how much fuel the engine is going to need at various levels of boost and make sure it will have enough for however high you want to go (ie upgraded fuel pump, larger injecters). Then, as you feel more comortable with the way it is tuned, you can start trying out a little more boost

. Just remember, the stock rods are designed for around 300hp and after that you are going to be getting closer to the possibility of bending a rod. I don't know if detonation will be a problem at the boost levels you're thinking of, but, just another thing to consider. I haven't boosted my car yet because I haven't gotten enough money yet, but, I have done a lot of research on the matter; my point being, I'm not the best one to give you the details on it, but, I'm giving you some generally good ideas based on the research I have done. I should be getting a MegaSquirt n' Spark system for my project car in couple of weeks

.

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » May 27th, 2006, 1:53 am

1 or 2 psi, lol, if it cant handle 8 psi then I am wasting my time. What all do I need to do to make it handle 100 shot spray? megasquirt, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and???

God these engines seem so weak, why did I even buy one? I see hondas running stock engines and 12 - 13 pounds daily.... Single cams included, as well as 100 shot with only a clutch and fuel pressure regulator.

And what am I generally supposed to rev my engine to?It will go to 7900 before bouncing. (found that out the hard way on the old engine with spray on)

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » May 27th, 2006, 2:39 am

2.5mazda wrote: God these engines seem so weak, why did I even buy one? I see hondas running stock engines and 12 - 13 pounds daily.... Single cams included, as well as 100 shot with only a clutch and fuel pressure regulator.

heh they are also not a 10:1 compressioned motor you can run a kl03/de at 12-13 they have a 9:1 compression. its a trade off. you can run little booste and make the engine work harder, or run more boost and make the engine work less

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » May 27th, 2006, 8:56 am

lol, I had a b16A, they have 10.4:1 and will handle 10 pounds.....

Oh well, I will do it anyway probably...

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 27th, 2006, 9:20 am

The 1-2 recommendation was just an uber-safe starting point. If you look on Probetalk, you'll see people are running around 10PSI on the ZE with 10:1 pistons.

If you go with a Megasquirt system, I'm sure you can get one of the ProbeTalk guys running a similar system share thier tuning program with you so you can have a starting point to safely start at like 7 lbs or so, and you can tune from there to suit your liking.

The main reason these Hondas can do crazy HP for thier displacement is thier intake manifolds. Our intakes are restrictive, and we have no aftermarket options. However, our intakes also allow us to make crazy torque. I make 140 ft/lbs by 1,800 RPM and I peak at 170 ft/lbs. Lets see a Honda get a torue curve that flat! In autocross racing, the flat toque means I don't have to waste time downshifting to 1st when coming out of a hairpin, then upshifting again. If it's a short, curvy track, I can just keep it in second the whole damned race and just go from 2,000 RPM to bouncing off at almost 8,000 RPM.

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » May 27th, 2006, 5:38 pm

"currently on hoilday some where in the world"

The rods for a KLZE will stand 300hp N/a

The better turbo motor combo is

Ford 402 stroker rods ( just need the crank tickled for oversize bearings )
Nissian 300ZTT piston's ( wee bit of a rebore )
Nissian 300ZTT wrist pin's.

the block has to be decked slighty to rasie compression back
though 8.5 or 8.0 is better for turbos

Mario Racing inlet mainafold
Mario Racing Turbo exhuast system.
RX7 550cc injectors
RX7 V fuelpump ( intank )
Standalone ECU

T03/04 turbo is not bad combo, need a back cut on the inpellor.

Gearbox plates to stop case stretch and rear mount damage.