OK. Trailing arms first. They’re the easiest. Keep in mind this is for the V6 MX3. The rear trailing arm for the I4 has a different part number. I suspect it will work as well since these pieces also work for the Protégé trailing arms.
The part you’re going to buy is the Energy Suspension trailing arm kit for the Escort ZX2. It should be about $30.
First, pull the trailing arm. The top will be the easiest because there’s no modification needed. There is a lip of rubber on both ends of the bushing If you cut the lip off with a utility knife all around, you can easily push the bushing clean out with a hammer. Get the smaller bushing out of the package. This bushing will go in unmodified. It’s a snug fit, though. So pull the metal tube out the middle of the new bushing. Then, lube the outer diameter of the new bushing and the inner diameter of the hole in the arm. Use regular grease, not the Energy grease. The grease here is to make it slide in the hole easier, not to prevent squeaking. Now, you’re going to somehow press this in. It helps to just barely get one side in, then slowly squeeze the other 3 sides in while applying even pressure. I stepped on it with my foot while guiding it in with my hand. Once you get the lip in, it’ll go the rest of the way easy. Once all the way on, grease the inner diameter of the urethane bushing with the Energy grease and insert the rod that came with the kit. Final product should look like this:
The bottom bushing will require a power grinder. Before you do anything, note that this bushing’s metal center has an offset. Meaning it’s flush with the bushing on one side, but the metal sticks out an inch or more on the other side past the bushing. Keep in mind which side the offset belongs on when you reassemble. Remove the old bushing the same way as the other. Make sure you cut the bushing lip on the side the bushing rod is NOT sticking out of. We’re going to retain the lip on the side with the offset. Should come out simple like the first. Use a utility knife to shave off as much of the rubber on the bushing shaft as possible, keeping in mind to not molest the rubber lip on the offset side. It should look like this when done.
Then, use a grinder to clean up all the left over rubber until the rod is clean metal ….. still keeping the rubber lip in tact.
Next to tackle is the metal rod is too thick for both lips on the new urethane bushing to seat properly on both sides. Note in this pic, the rod is wider than the base diameter part of the bushing:
You are going to need to grind down an entire side of the metal opening until it is narrow enough for the full base diameter of the new urethane bushing. This will take a while. Try to work around the diameter evenly so you keep the height fairly even all over. When you think it’s narrow enough, lube and press in just like the last ….. with the tube removed. Use the Energy lube in the center of the bushing. Then, you’re going to use the offset metal tube in center instead of the metal rod that came with the kit. You’re going to insert it so the offset is in the same side as before you pulled the bearing out. Will look like this:
That’s it. You’re done. Now lube up the contact/pivot areas, reinstall the way they came off, and off you go.
TTL write-up requires a lot more work. The write-up will come later in the week.
