Base Ignition Timing Problem

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » November 27th, 2005, 12:24 am

Could be your timing light is not functioning properly. Buy a new one and tell them what is going on. LEt them know that you'd like to return if if you get the same reading from a new light. If they are cool with it then you'll know if your light is causing a funny incorrect reading. If it is the light then you have a new one to time from and can fix the problem if there is one.

Also, you are correct the timing marks are on the timing cover. If the cover was put on properly (and kinda hard to get it to fit any other way than properly) than you are fine. They will not move or shift.
Again, I'd start with the timing light and if not that then check the timing marks on the cam sprockets and crank shaft yourself. If they line up then I cannot see a reason for your timing to not advance properly.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » November 27th, 2005, 3:56 pm

I used the timing light on another vehicle and it worked OK, so I don't think it's the light.

I was messing around again today with the MX-3's timing and it maxed out at 8° Now the kicker was I also checked it in the normal loop mode (ECU not grounded) and the timing did not adjust! It varied at around 7° and 8°

It should always adjust to about 10° or 11° at idle right? Even if the base timing is a few degrees off. At least it did when the car was only 3 years old.

Also while I had the ECU grounded in service mode I found stored codes. I believe it displayed 23 and 24 ( 2 long flashes followed by 3 short then 2 long followed by 4 short and repeated this sequence )

Now it's getting more interesting. Could the OS sensor cause this timing problem? I could see why it might in the normal mode.

Where the heck is the RH sensor located? Is this the expensive one?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 10th, 2005, 11:05 pm

UPDATE:

Got the timing problem solved.

It was the AutoZone replacement part. The casting near the upper mount is to close to the edge at the end of the mounting arm. This prevents the locking bolt from traveling to full swing because the large washer hits the casting. See pic

http://www.cerberegidius.com/bmw/timingbolt.jpg

Also, I think the codes were triggered by the fuel injector cleaner, as the CEL did not come back on since I filled up the tank again!

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » December 12th, 2005, 12:19 am

OMG!! What a stupid problem.

But, I guess it is better a stupid one than a hard to find or fix problem.

Glad you finally got her timed properly.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 12th, 2005, 12:45 am

Hey Pat.

Indeed

It barely made it to 10° I ended up taking the large washer out. I'm still wondering why these distys set at the extreme end insted of in the center range like the OEM?

If anyone else has/had this condition with an Autozone disty let me know.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 1:08 am

Never had that problem...with auto zone distys...althougn i dont use washers.... glad ya figured it out.

Does the cars performance seem any better?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 12th, 2005, 1:23 am

That's because you never check the timing.

Just kidding.

It did a bit better on gas mileage. But it will make a big difference once I replace the O2 sensors. They have 186,000 miles on them.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 1:35 am

Bah! ive check the timing once, on my second swap. So there!

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 12th, 2005, 1:56 am

LOL. How many MX-3's do you have? I may be picking one up soon if the price is right. How much do you think a 93 GS with nice interior and exterior, but failed auto trany is worth? If I end up buying it I'll have to covert it to MTX maybe an MX6 trany and ZE?

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 1:26 pm

Well i had 2, but one got totaled (not my fault). Both of them were 92 and sticks. I got both for 2200$. Although the first one had power nothing ..heh i hated roll up windows. If the car is in realy good shape except for the tranny..i would pay 1500 or so for it.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 5:28 pm

My timing was correct btw. Checked it out today. Was kinda hoping it was off so i could get some better gas miliage.

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 12th, 2005, 6:07 pm

XxantwawnxX wrote:My timing was correct btw. Checked it out today. Was kinda hoping it was off so i could get some better gas miliage.

LOL... talk about luck. Or did you check it without jumping the ECU? Just kidding.

I'm going to go look at the car this week. Thanks for the info.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 8:26 pm

YEa luck haha. Well tell me this. When in Diag mode it was rigth aroun 9- 11 degres btdc(slightly fluctuating idle). but as soon as i pulled the diag jumper it advanced alot at idle. I thought timing only advanced in acceleration times. And retarded under loads and such. I know it advances on a cold start up also bu tmy motor was hot.

Is this normal? whats should timing read at idle when the diag mode is turned off?

FlyVFR · Post by **FlyVFR** » December 12th, 2005, 9:55 pm

How much did it advance? Mine is quite steady when in diag mode and jumps a bit when in normal mode. But always at about 10° with engine totally warmed up, no accessories and idling at aprox 700 RPM.

It should not advance a lot. check the idle.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » December 12th, 2005, 10:12 pm

oh yeah i idle higher than you do : ) thats prolly why.