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![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
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You almost had it right. It should read "You dont have to adjust base timing if you take the disty off ad put it back on the same spot.XxantwawnxX wrote: You dont have to adjust base timing if you take the disty off ad put it back on.
Ok that sall i need...as long as i know what im saying is correct. : P Because i have never marked it and put it back on in slightly diff pos im sure everytime(and thent theres when i turned it to test it) and it never affected anthing....i think idle changed for abrief moment then settle back down to normal. that was it.hgallegos915 wrote:i checked..when ten and ground were not jumpered timing did not move at all.. strange...
Yeah ive used the light before on my second swap. I was curious..and yes it was right smack where it should be.hgallegos915 wrote:i would still sugest a timing light to check..should be at around 10 degrees as per manual specs.
What's strange? That the ECU compensated for the change in timing while in closed loop mode? That's not stange at all. it's normal. The timing did change but the ECU compensated for the change based on the readings it received from all sensors while at at idle, not because it was stored. Now if you jump the ECU it stops making all these changes and it will give the true base reading of where the disty really is located in reference to degree marks and crank sensor. Again this value is not stored, but is triggered by the crank sensors controlled by the ECU and the disty needs to be set at the specified base timing to be within programmed spec for the entire RPM range! That's why once the base timing is set you need to leave the disty where it is otherwise you'll have to jump the ECU and set it again bacause it is NOT a stored value.hgallegos915 wrote: i checked..when ten and ground were not jumpered timing did not move at all.. strange...
Juans_93_MX3 wrote:So, take out my disty, mark it. Then when I put it in, I dont have to worry about timing or anything as long as I put at on the marked spot.
Correct?
HEHE i knew all of that. Although putting it in feet to explain it was a good idea.FlyVFR wrote: In theory, I think of ECU timing as a line of 10 feet in length. The base timing is set physicaly at five feet at idle by locking the disty to that point. In this condition the ECU has 5 feet of advance timing and 5 feet to retard timing. Now if we move the disty to 8 feet the ECU only has 2 feet of advance to compensate as it reaches max and performance is lost because it will never be able to give 2 more feet of advance. The opposite will happen when the ECU needs to retard the timing, it will reach a point where it will never be able to retard the timing enough for optimal performance.
OK... I have truly exhausted the subject.
That answered my previuos question thanx. Ill do a lil check up on monday and let ya know if i was off any.hgallegos915 wrote:when nit was cold it would run like crap, when it was warm it would run ok. It was the timing on the car.
Wise arseXxantwawnxX wrote:
HEHE i knew all of that. Although putting it in feet to explain it was a good idea.