KLZE compression q's

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 24th, 2005, 12:55 pm

Hi, I am getting a ZE in less than two weeks and they are gonna do the compression tests before it leaves the place I am getting it from. What kindof numbers am I looking at for a good motor? 170+?

Selecta · Post by **Selecta** » June 24th, 2005, 2:05 pm

Not entirely sure but I think 185 is good. But if the motor has not been running for a while have them do a leak down test is't more reliable on a cold motor than a compression test..just a thought.

babyblueMX3 · Post by **babyblueMX3** » June 24th, 2005, 3:04 pm

I had 210 on all 6 cylinders on mine

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 24th, 2005, 10:07 pm

really? well they are gonna do a compression i guess not a leak down...what is a leak down anyways? is about 180 acceptable?

Selecta · Post by **Selecta** » June 25th, 2005, 2:04 am

In a leak down test (from what I understand) they make sure there are no leaks with the seals and gaskets etc etc....it pretty much would tell you if the motor is solid or not. But I am sure someone on the board would be able to give you more detailed response...if possible get the leak down test done as well.

I was told it's more accurate on cold motors.

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 26th, 2005, 3:28 pm

Yea, I will try to get into contact with him on monday and see if they will do a leakdown... do u acctually think the engine distributer will be truthful about the results? what if i can only get a compression? what #'s am I looking at..

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 27th, 2005, 11:38 am

before I get my motor here, does anyone got anything to add? tips maybe for when I get it?

babyblueMX3 · Post by **babyblueMX3** » June 27th, 2005, 1:44 pm

pop the front valve cover and see the condition the heads are in

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » June 27th, 2005, 2:27 pm

Yea, i am planning on that for sure..I guess golden is ok, but no sludge or anything liek that, make sure the cams are not grooved etc...sounds good

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » October 27th, 2005, 7:43 pm

Since I'm changing the plugs and stuff in preparation for my e-test tomorrow, I thought I'd do a compression test.

1- 197
2- 201
3- 196
4- 207
5- 205
6- 201

I think they look pretty good, but could use some feedback. I was actually anticipating some really low numbers in a few cylinders. That would heve rationalized my excessive blow-out through the muffler of all of that black crap that gets deposited on the bumper. Can I still be blowing oil out the exhaust while still have good compression numbers? If so, that would mean I would need a valve job wouldn't it? I'm not sure how to go about correcting this excessive exhaust emission which I believe to be oil. Ides????

dewthis · Post by **dewthis** » October 27th, 2005, 8:02 pm

Hey John- I seem to have the same issues as you. First thing in the morning the exhaust spits out a liquid that is black in color. I believe it is water due to condensation that builds after the car is turned off. But, I also have a nice film of black soot all across the back of the car? From looking at the plugs you would think I'd be running pretty close to stoich. I have got some trouble shooting to do on the ignition, seems like I have a slight miss. Its also there when I spray, which is no good.

Anyways- back on topic.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » October 29th, 2005, 10:41 am

Well, not so good news. I failed the emissions test. After I did a compression test, I changed plugs, cleaned disty rotor, cleaned disty contacts, added 4 litres naptha to nearly full tank of gas, did a good 20 minute run on highway just before test.

Test type........Limit.....Reading.....Result

Idle
HC(ppm)........300.......295...........Pass
CO%..............1.50......0.76.........Pass

2500rpm
HC(ppm)........300.......169..........Pass
CO%..............1.50.....2.06..........Fail

The test was done without using the rollors because thay said the car was lowered too much and could not be anchored down safely. Also had paperwork from local Mazda stating ZE specs and thereby was tested under "Hotrod" parameters.
As you can see HC is OK at 2500rpm but is very close to failing on idle.
I have a back-up TB which should be a little better than my current one and will be putting that on today, just on spec. Because the ISC on the TB was generating a high idle, it has been disconnected for the last few months - could that be a possible contributing source to consider or am I just reaching here? Can anyone make heads or tails out of this and possibly make some recommendations.