Temp Gauge Problem
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
Temp Gauge Problem
Hey guys, ever since I installed my glo-gauges, right when i turn my battery on, my temp needle shoots all the way up past 'hot'. and i kinda just said 'f' it n let it go. but now its startin to bug me again. does anyone know why its doing this? did i maybe re-install somthing wrong, or should i try reseting somthing?
Parker
Parker
'94 White MX-3 GS. Engine bay empty and waiting for the 2.5DE.
Completly stock, at this time.
Parker
Completly stock, at this time.
Parker
- MAZDASPEEDMX-3
- Regular Member
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- Joined: August 25th, 2005, 1:33 pm
- Location: cville va
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
- PATDIESEL
- Senior Member
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- Joined: August 13th, 2001, 2:01 am
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Yeah, take the needle off and let the car warm up, then replace the needle facing the half way mark. Then turn the car off, let it completely cool down and turn the car back on, make sure it doesn't move much, then crank and let it warm up and see if it stays at the half way point.
If it is still messed up I have several GS clusters for sale, check out http://www.atlantamx3.com/mocaforum for more info on the guages.
If it is still messed up I have several GS clusters for sale, check out http://www.atlantamx3.com/mocaforum for more info on the guages.
![Image](http://www.patdiesel.atlantamx3.com/MX-3/patdieselsigMX-3.jpg)
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
Sounds like similar problems I've been having as described here and here. Grants has a suggestion as to how I could try to fix it, although I'm still not sure how to short that BLK/ORG wire to the ground as he suggested.
What I drive: A Cybertronian disguised in the form of a Creek Blue Mica 95 MX-3 GS. ![Driver :driver:](./images/smilies/driver.gif)
Long term goal: Fabricating a new transformation cog!![Welder :welder:](./images/smilies/welder.gif)
![Driver :driver:](./images/smilies/driver.gif)
Long term goal: Fabricating a new transformation cog!
![Welder :welder:](./images/smilies/welder.gif)
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
Can you locate the wire that goes to the temperature sender unit in the engine bay - it should be BLK / ORG? If you can, disconnect it and see what the gauge does. If it stays at full deflection the sender unit is probably ok so you can reconnect it. If the gauge goes to "cold" the sender unit is u/s and needs replacing.
If it stays at full deflection with the wire disconnected, you'll need to disconnect it where it goes into the cluster. If it stays at full deflection then you have a fault in the cluster itself. If it goes to "cold" you have a short in the wire between the cluster and the sender unit.
To explain how the sender unit operates - the resistance between the BLK / ORG wire and ground changes depending on the temperature. If the resistance is high the gauge will remain on "cold". As the sender unit heats up, the resistances decreases and the gauge moves to "hot". So a short to ground in the sender or sender wire will result in full deflection of the gauge needle (no resistance to ground polarity). Disconnecting the wire should result in a "cold" reading as the resistance between the sender wire and ground is very high or infinite.
Hope that helps.
If it stays at full deflection with the wire disconnected, you'll need to disconnect it where it goes into the cluster. If it stays at full deflection then you have a fault in the cluster itself. If it goes to "cold" you have a short in the wire between the cluster and the sender unit.
To explain how the sender unit operates - the resistance between the BLK / ORG wire and ground changes depending on the temperature. If the resistance is high the gauge will remain on "cold". As the sender unit heats up, the resistances decreases and the gauge moves to "hot". So a short to ground in the sender or sender wire will result in full deflection of the gauge needle (no resistance to ground polarity). Disconnecting the wire should result in a "cold" reading as the resistance between the sender wire and ground is very high or infinite.
Hope that helps.
“You’ll find, that the only thing you can do easily is be wrong, and that’s hardly worth the effort.”
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
- MX3parkerGS
- Regular Member
- Posts: 65
- Joined: July 27th, 2004, 2:01 am
- Location: St.Joseph, MO
im thinkin i maybe re-installed it wrong, cuz the temp one for example. hooks up to the cluster with 4 screws at four corners like a sqaure, thing is, when i had it out, i noticed to the part that screws in kinda rotated freely w/o the needle itself moving. so maybe i need to rotate it a diff direction before installing it with the 4 screws. maybe it has to be aligned with the four corners a specific way.
x-----------x <-- x=screw points
- -
- ------needle
- -
x-----------x
x-----------x <-- x=screw points
- -
- ------needle
- -
x-----------x
'94 White MX-3 GS. Engine bay empty and waiting for the 2.5DE.
Completly stock, at this time.
Parker
Completly stock, at this time.
Parker