Bought a BP today...

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » September 23rd, 2005, 12:02 am

OK. So I had a slight shifting problem: fixed. I used the wrong bolt in the linkage. Now my clutch won't fully disengage. I had to bend the pedal stop so the pedal sits like a foot off the floor and lengthen the rod that goes to the master cylinder.

So my question is...what it my problem? Is it the master or slave cylinder? How would I figure out which one is was so I can replace it? I guess I have to replace my pedal assembly as well...

But at least I can drive to work and back. It's still a little tough to shift since I have to mash the pedal into the floor to get the clutch to disengage.

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » September 23rd, 2005, 12:05 am

By the way...I LOVE all the power that the new BP has. I can't believe I'm to the point where I'm solving/tweaking problems. Wasn't it just a week ago that my car had NOTHING under the hood? I must say...it feels good to know that I did all that work and in the end...it definately paid off.

Now if I could just remember to put that manifold to exaust gasket on to quiet her down a bit...

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » September 23rd, 2005, 9:35 pm

So I got in the car to go to work this morning and it wouldn't go into gear again. The clutch isn't releasing. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this tells me that one of the cylinders is bad. I got a new master AND slave cylinder (they weren't that expensive), so now I'll have a completely new clutch system, so everything should work. I'm putting the new parts in tomorrow, as well as a new pedal assembly, speedo gear, and a few other miscellanious cosmetic parts. So hopefully I'll be able to drive (for more than half an hour this time) by the end of the day tomorrow.

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » September 28th, 2005, 1:17 pm

My computer was down for a few days...so here's an update...

The BP is running great! I lengthened the rod in the slave cylinder, and installed a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and pedal assembly. I guess the clutch kit I bought was a little stiffer than stock, so everything works fine now. I think I need to do something with the linkage...it still doesn't feel perfect. Maybe a short shifter will make it better. We'll see.

As far as the motor goes, since my last post I have changed the thermostat, the fan switch, and I MAY change the temperature sensor, I'm not sure. I just can't be sure that I'm getting the correct temp reading on my stock gauges. I'll go to the store and compare the part numbers.

Other than that, I still have to bleed the brakes (and replace the pads while I'm at it) and really just figure out how to drive a stick. It's not that hard, don't get me wrong, but I just need to get the feel for it so I get the most power out of the new BP when I shift. Sometimes, I think I shift at the wrong time. But I'll get the feel for it soon enough.

Shades · Post by **Shades** » September 30th, 2005, 10:06 am

I recommend shifting around 4000rpm's... sooner if you want save some gas, and later would let you ride that power band a little longer (obviously uses more gas).

Good to see that everything is going good!

I can't wait to finish my BP engine... but since I'm moving to a different machine shop I don't think it will be any time soon. But in the mean time I'm ordering my parts...

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » September 30th, 2005, 9:26 pm

I started to notice that the clutch was slipping. I guess I extended the rod in the slave cylindar too much. I adjusted the length of the rod, and it seems to be fine now, but there is a VERY tight margain of error. The pedal HAS to be ON the floor in order to shift. Is this normal? If it's off the floor more than an inch or so, the car won't shift.

Mazda_Power · Post by **Mazda_Power** » October 2nd, 2005, 2:24 pm

I guess I didn't realize that you can adjust the slave cylinder's arm. How do you do that, is there a adjustment bolt opposite of the the hydrolic arm?

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 4th, 2005, 8:41 pm

You have to get a longer rod and actually REPLACE the stock one. I just went to Home Depot and got some solid rod (from the Hardware isle) and cut a piece that was about 3/4" longer than the stock one. That was the length that worked for me in the end. I also put one of those rounded nuts over the end to make a smooth surface for the rod to push on the clutch fork. I'll post some pictures when I get a chance...

As you may already know, there's also an adjustment on the pedal. I just had to play with different rod lengths and pedal adjustments to get it just right. Now the clutch DEFINITELY grabs, and it releases just as well.

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 7th, 2005, 11:29 am

OK. I finally had some time to post some pics, so here they are.

The new motor just after I dropped it in...

The new BP all hooked up and running...

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 20th, 2005, 1:06 pm

Oh...first of all, I just noticed a difference in the pictures above and thought I should note why. The first pictures shows the exaust manifold painted black, and the second shows a non-painted exaust manifold. Here's why...

For anyone painting parts in their engine bay, DO NOT paint the exaust manifold. You all may already know this, but I learned the hard way. I painted mine, not thinking about the temps it would produce, and was plauged with a stinky black smoke from the paint baking. So painting the manifold is NOT a good idea. I had to remove the manifold and strip the paint off...it was a PITA...

Just thought I should mention that.

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 20th, 2005, 1:14 pm

All that being said, the BP is running great now...a few small problems, but it's down to tweaking now.

I have to say, the swap was a learning experience. Not so much learning from my mistakes (I followed one hell of a write-up, thanks Typhoonk!), since everything went smooth for the most part. But I learned a lot about my MX that will help me in the future. I will admit, I didn't know as much as I thought I did until I did the swap.

For anyone thinking about a swap...if you're unsure that you can do it, I say go for it. It was well worth it...the MX is SO MUCH MORE fun to drive! I'm kinda sad it's over...oh well...I guess I'll just have to find some new projects to work on...

Thanks to all who helped out!

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 20th, 2005, 2:37 pm

Here's a little note for anyone who's BP is running a little hot...

At first I thought I needed a water pump, radiator, sensors, or SOMETHING, because periodically, the motor would go up to 3/4 on the temp gauge, then the fan would turn on and it would go back down to 1/2. I thought this was odd, because just the fan alone shouldn't reduce the temp by a whole 1/4. Also, as soon as I would get like half way down the block from a cold start the temp gauge would read at 1/2. A little too soon, I thought. It's like the motor never cooled off...even overnight!

So I changed the temperature sending unit (below the distributor, to the left of the coolant hose), and now the temp gauge is reading correctly.The temp is a little below 1/2, and when it goes up to 1/2 the fan turns on and brings it down a little.

The problem was that the temperature sending units in each motor have different ranges. Using the one for the MX-3 (the one that my temp gauge was calibrated for) made the temp gauge read correctly and behave like normal. There was nothing wrong with the motor or the cooling system in the first place. Just using a different gauge that wasn't calibrated for the sending unit that came with the motor was making it read incorrectly.

So if you do the swap, use the temperature sensor from the MX. Just thought I would note that here for my own reference, as well as anyone who is having the same "problem."

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 20th, 2005, 2:42 pm

That gets me thinking...should I change the oil pressure sensor as well? There may be a difference in that one too, which would prevent the oil pressure light on the instrument cluster from coming on...

Gotta go check some part numbers...

PoisonDrop · Post by **PoisonDrop** » October 20th, 2005, 2:45 pm

As a matter of fact, the oil pressure sensors for each motor have the same part number. So as far as I can tell, the temperature sensor is the only one that needs to be changed when using an Escort motor with an MX-3 instrument cluster.

Shades · Post by **Shades** » October 20th, 2005, 10:20 pm

This is all good information for when I do my swap.

Good to hear all things are running smooth!