Building a BP from the ground up...

4-Cyl. Technical/Performance Discussions
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Shades
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Building a BP from the ground up...

Post by Shades »

I think I'm gonna document my BP build up, so maybe if someone does the same down the road they can learn from my mistakes (which I hope not to make).

Ok, here's the info.

It's a BP outta a 92 Ford Escort GT.

Things and facts I've learn about stripping this apart:

~ You can use a MBSP (main bearing support plate) that was only installed in the later Miata's for extra support on the crank twisting. All the holes are drilled and tapped in the main caps and EVEN in the oil pan the 'dimples' aka cut outs are already there and you don't need to get a 2001 oil pan (like I was expecting).
http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MBSP.html

~The block came with a oil cooler... which for later when I plan to turbo it will help.
~Also as stated in the website below, my block did come with two plugs in the back of the block, used later for turbo oiling.
http://members.aol.com/solomiata/BP8.html

I'll add more later as I learn.

Components I'll be using:

FM Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons
Carrillo A-beam rods
Mazda MBSP plate
Manley intake and exhaust SS oversized valves
Eibach or Ferrea valve spring and titanium retainers
Performance ground stock cams
Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley
*Trying to decide which lightened flywheel to go with
Milling off the Ford symbol on the valve cover and polish
Port match and polish the head and manifolds
Balancing the whole engine
Maybe o-ring the block

Ok, I'll post some pics in the next few days.
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
Mazda_Power
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Post by Mazda_Power »

Sounds cool... I did this with my KL-ZE (here: http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701149489 )

It was fun. Now I'm looking at doing what you are. Except I'll be going all motor for simplicty.
'92 Festiva L powered by a 1.8L SOHC Protege motor - For Sale
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Post by D323 »

no no no to the UDP's if your going to be boosting. A bunch of the Miata guys blew up their motors under boost b/c of the UDP messing up the harmonic balance.

Everything you listed looks good. I would suggest trying to find a 99/00 Miata head. They have the solid lifters (no HLA's = good thing on rev happy motor) and shims you can swap to. From there drop in a set of Toda cams for the best results. There again though the Toda cams are outrageously priced, but worth it IMO.

If you do all this stuff get some headwork done to enjoy the mods.
-P&P
-3 angle valve job (15/45/75 owns a standard 30/60/90 job - thx Vaughn for that tip!)
and possibly an aftermarket TB or something.
GS + BP + T3 + 9lb flywheel - some dead weight = ;)
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Shades
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Post by Shades »

UDP?... sorry not up and up on the terminology... are you reffering to the Unorthodox Racing Pulley?
If you are, if I get the whole crankshaft balanced end to end, and rods and pistons, that shouldn't matter...
Cause if you just throw the pulley on your engine without balancing, you're gonna throw everything off wieght wise, and you'll loose the harmonic balancing from the stock pulley.

I'm gonna buy some solid lifters and just put them in my head... that way I can get higher rev's. I know the 99/00 head prolly flows better... but hey I can always find one later and swap it on.

Toda cams... lol, maybe when I get that 99/00 Miata head. ;)

I work for a machine shop so I can do my own Port and Polishing... and 3 angle my seats. :P

Aftermarket TB... maybe when I throw on the turbo. For now I just wanna build just the BP and T later.

Thanks D323 for your input! :D
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
Mazda_Power
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Post by Mazda_Power »

UDP - Under Drive Pulley

They are fine if you get the whole motor balanced with the pulley on. Otherwise they aren't the best for your motor.

Toda's aren't really worth it. I mean they are great, but what do they cost??? $600 or so? Why not go with a good regrind for turbo? MUCH cheaper with better gains.

Bored TB's (as with just about any flow upgrade) work great on turboed motors! So you should deffinately try that.
Shades wrote:UDP?... sorry not up and up on the terminology... are you reffering to the Unorthodox Racing Pulley?
If you are, if I get the whole crankshaft balanced end to end, and rods and pistons, that shouldn't matter...
Cause if you just throw the pulley on your engine without balancing, you're gonna throw everything off wieght wise, and you'll loose the harmonic balancing from the stock pulley.

I'm gonna buy some solid lifters and just put them in my head... that way I can get higher rev's. I know the 99/00 head prolly flows better... but hey I can always find one later and swap it on.

Toda cams... lol, maybe when I get that 99/00 Miata head. ;)

I work for a machine shop so I can do my own Port and Polishing... and 3 angle my seats. :P

Aftermarket TB... maybe when I throw on the turbo. For now I just wanna build just the BP and T later.

Thanks D323 for your input! :D
'92 Festiva L powered by a 1.8L SOHC Protege motor - For Sale
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Post by Mazda_Power »

I also thought I'd say you don't really need oversized vavles if you are going turbo since everything is being forced. It helps, but isn't imperitive. So if you are looking for ways to save cash, there you go!
'92 Festiva L powered by a 1.8L SOHC Protege motor - For Sale
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Shades
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Post by Shades »

I also thought I'd say you don't really need oversized vavles if you are going turbo since everything is being forced. It helps, but isn't imperitive. So if you are looking for ways to save cash, there you go!
Well, they're not just oversized but cut back under the head quite a bit to help flow. I plan to be in debt and happy in the end. :lol:
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
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Shades
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Post by Shades »

Finally took some pictures today!

Stupid FORD symbol has to go, half glass beaded...
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BP block with the long oil filter tube cause the oil cooler sits behind it...
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My head, with the two valves taken out so I could measure them...
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Anyone know what these symbols are and what the crank number is suppose to be?
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Shiny Oil Pan?!... are you crazy!
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That nipple of a bolt has to be cut off in order to fit into the Escort pan... this is the MBSP from a Miata.
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More Pictures...
http://members.shaw.ca/spudsicles/images/bp01.htm
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
Mazda_Power
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Post by Mazda_Power »

Looking Good. Is that oil pan painter or polished? I'd guess painted...
'92 Festiva L powered by a 1.8L SOHC Protege motor - For Sale
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Post by Shades »

Thanks.

I should of polished it... but I didn't cause no one's gonna see it. I will polish the valve cover once I take out the FORD.

Currently looking into getting a SPEC lightwheight flywheel to balance out the UR pulley. Also the a SPEC Stage 2+ clutch to match.
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
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Post by D323 »

lol, sorry left that part out about the balancing needed...

Pics look good man. You should be really happy with the result.

One thing I saw you mentioned, the 99/00 miata head. It may bolt on, but the BP intake manifold does NOT line up. But since you work in a machine shop you can fix this very easily. Apparently the bolt holes are only slightly off, as well as the ports.

Image

sourced from: http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MX5Engine.html

And you cannot use the miata intake manifold b/c it would point to the passenger side frame rail behind the motor.

Another thing to consider is sourcing a GTX/GTR intake manifold. They dont have the VICS butterflies to obstruct the flow of boost, and would be ideal.
GS + BP + T3 + 9lb flywheel - some dead weight = ;)
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Post by Mazda_Power »

I'm kind of leading your thread asray, but since you've been no doubt looking at BP parts, what's the highest copmpression available using OEM parts?
'92 Festiva L powered by a 1.8L SOHC Protege motor - For Sale
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Post by D323 »

Its all there on that Miata site.

10:1 for the newer NB's (02 and up I believe)
9.5:1 for the 99-00 model Miata
9:1 for the 94-97 NA

Odd fact though, some of the first production BP's came with 8.8:1 CR's instead of the factory stated 9:1. A bunch of the Miata guys calculated it.

9:1 or the 9.5:1 would probably be ideal for most boosted setups. If your crazy like me, and have access to higher octane fuels, then you can go with a higher CR.
GS + BP + T3 + 9lb flywheel - some dead weight = ;)
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Post by jaydog5678 »

9 to 1 would be a better choice for most of us running pump gas. :D
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Shades
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Post by Shades »

Yep, the people above me are right. 9:1

If you go aftermarket, there are 11:1 from Wiseco if you want high high... but mainly recommended for Carb Miata's.

For some reason Wiseco makes a 8.6:1, but like everyone said 9:1 is better for boosted applications. Only FM has rights to sell the Wiseco 9:1 pistons.

End of the month, I'm purchasing all my goodies... so come in October I'll have pictures of all the internals. :lol:
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JoN - Ex-Automotive Machinist Journeyman/Refrigeration Mechanic Apprentice
1996 Mazda MX-3 RS - Creek Blue Mica

RACING BP fully built with Twin Scroll GT3071R TURBO @ +30psi - Specs and Pictures

"Do it ONCE, do it RIGHT!"
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