Oil leak near distributor
Oil leak near distributor
I think my engine (94 1.6L DOHC) leaks a small amount of oil somewhere around the distributor. The entire distributor is caked with greasy grime and there is some greasy stuff close to the cylinder - also i found out that the spark plug gets covered with oil (the one closer to the distributor) - so i am thinking that the valve cover gasket and the distributor gasket (if there is one) both leak. Is it easy to change both those gaskets? Is it as easy as take the valve cover off - put the new gasket in - take the distributor off - put the new gasket in etc... Also if i take the distributor off - should i have to do tuning/timing adjustment etc etc. Thanks.
head gasket repair
Repairing the gasket is not very difficult.
Just keep in my the spark plug # sequence if you dont have a book.
Clean everything, no grease, brake cleaner or something. Dont go crazy overtorquing the cover bolts or else you will eat the thread in the aluminum head.
Just keep in my the spark plug # sequence if you dont have a book.
Clean everything, no grease, brake cleaner or something. Dont go crazy overtorquing the cover bolts or else you will eat the thread in the aluminum head.
How can I remove Mazda Enthusiast?
- ccreech
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- Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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The disty o-ring is easy to replace. I replaced mine when I did my swap about 4 months ago and it is leaking a little bit already. That is a tough hole to plug. I would suggest buying Mazda's disty O-ring if they have one. I just tried to match it up s good as I could from a selection of O-rings that Napa had. I THOUGHT that it was perfect.
The Valve cover is also an easy fix. As WTF said...the key is don't over tighten. The head of the bolts will snap off I guarantee it. A torque wrench is a wise investment. A dab of RTV...Gasket maker from any parts store... is a good idea in the creases where the cams run.
Advanvce sells a kit with the valve cover gaskets and Grometts. I don't think anyone sells just one. The rear one is a little trickier to get to because you have to take the intake off but its not that hard if you know what you are doing. Just don't forget about the bolt that is hidden way in the back that keeps that bolts the intake to the rear head.
Happy Wrenching!
The Valve cover is also an easy fix. As WTF said...the key is don't over tighten. The head of the bolts will snap off I guarantee it. A torque wrench is a wise investment. A dab of RTV...Gasket maker from any parts store... is a good idea in the creases where the cams run.
Advanvce sells a kit with the valve cover gaskets and Grometts. I don't think anyone sells just one. The rear one is a little trickier to get to because you have to take the intake off but its not that hard if you know what you are doing. Just don't forget about the bolt that is hidden way in the back that keeps that bolts the intake to the rear head.
Happy Wrenching!
- ccreech
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- Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Like I said I went to NAPA with my old one and matched it up as good as I could. However mine still leaks a little. Not as bad as before though. Napa replacement might be better than your old crappy one. They are like .50 too so you can't beat that. I bought the 2 that were the closest in size and tried them both. One appeared to be perfect...Maybe Mazda designed it to leak a little????jk
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Thanks man - i did change the valve cover gasket and i took off the distributor and surprise - there was no o-ring at all - i just put a whole lot of gasket maker in there and formed a custom o-ring and it doesnt leak anymore - i dont know if that's a permanent solution - but it was the only one i could come up with my limited time and resources ...
yes - i dont know why car mechanics feel the need to overcharge and fleece us at every possible oppurtunity. I went in for an oil change recently and the dude asked me for $25+parts to change spark plug/ wires and $75+parts to put on my new muffler and 75+parts for a fuel filter! I know there are honest mechanics out there - i just cannt seem to find them
- mycarhatesme
- Regular Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: September 6th, 2005, 12:34 pm
- Location: Brampton, Ontario
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honestly....dont feel so bad...i bought my mx3 in may, its now september...ive had these problems....
water pump (current issue) --- 100$
4 new tires. --- 65/each.$
new alternator --- 200$
new trailing arms..both sides... --- 250$
new rad --- 150$
windshield has a crack in it...not looking good.
i got gas spitting out my muffler tip...not looking good.
i have no mechanical experience....
lol....again...dont feel so bad.
water pump (current issue) --- 100$
4 new tires. --- 65/each.$
new alternator --- 200$
new trailing arms..both sides... --- 250$
new rad --- 150$
windshield has a crack in it...not looking good.
i got gas spitting out my muffler tip...not looking good.
i have no mechanical experience....
lol....again...dont feel so bad.
My names Dave, and Mazda has direct access to my bank account...sighs...
I have some mechanical experience and i am confident that i can do it if i had the time and tools and of course money..... and i dont have much of all the above...... as somebody once said - life sucks - but the alternative is not pleasant either....mycarhatesme wrote:honestly....dont feel so bad...i bought my mx3 in may, its now september...ive had these problems....
water pump (current issue) --- 100$
4 new tires. --- 65/each.$
new alternator --- 200$
new trailing arms..both sides... --- 250$
new rad --- 150$
windshield has a crack in it...not looking good.
i got gas spitting out my muffler tip...not looking good.
i have no mechanical experience....
lol....again...dont feel so bad.
- mycarhatesme
- Regular Member
- Posts: 137
- Joined: September 6th, 2005, 12:34 pm
- Location: Brampton, Ontario
- Contact: