Rear brake caliper siezed

DamoV6UK · Post by **DamoV6UK** » May 14th, 2005, 4:15 pm

Hi guys, ive done a search and have a bit of an idea but would appreciate some advice before i put on the new discs i have ordered and they get chewed as well!

On one of the rear discs the outher pad is constantly in contact with the disc, worn right down to backing plate and scored the disc.

Cant see the inside properly even with the wheel to be sure if it is just the outer side or the inner aswell.

I think the caliper may have seized so plan to strip it and have a look at the sliders to clean them up and regrease them.

Has anyone had this problem and if so can they give me any pointers before i wind up with a dismantled car and no idea what to do?

Thanks

Damo

quicksliver · Post by **quicksliver** » May 14th, 2005, 7:00 pm

We have what you call floating disk brakes. The pads will ALWAYS be in contact with the rotor...but the wheel should still spin with ease! The reason your getting uneven pad wear is because your caliper is starting to seize up. Take the caliper off the car, clean all the slide pins, re-grease em' (100% silicone grease), and re-insert. If any of the rubber boot things are damaged....replace em'.

Ps. also check to make sure your e-brake is fully releaseing.

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » May 15th, 2005, 2:40 am

Nuff said!

Macen · Post by **Macen** » May 15th, 2005, 1:52 pm

I had the same problem with my left rear caliper.
A friend helped me today with it.
I was unable to slide the caliper after tilting the caliper over. So he removed the cap at the back of the caliper, and behind that cap there was a 10mm bult. He got the bolt out and the caliper finaly was able to release. The he put the bult back through the hole and used it to get the "slide pipe" out. once the pipe was out, I removed all rust and used lot's of grease on it and put everything back again.

DamoV6UK · Post by **DamoV6UK** » May 16th, 2005, 8:09 am

thanks for all this guys, im going to tackle the job tomorrow.

I went into an auto parts store today and all they had was lithium based grease or silicone spray, the monkey behind the counter was little help!

Also what is the e-brake? Im assuming just another name for hand brake? if so would that not affect both rear brakes if it was sticking on?

Thanks

Damo

Zoso124 · Post by **Zoso124** » May 16th, 2005, 1:48 pm

I'd recommend buying a new set of rebuilt ones. You can clean up the slides but the piston might be sticking, thats the problem I've ran into.

J0HN_R1 · Post by **J0HN_R1** » May 17th, 2005, 8:49 pm

I tackled one side myself today. Started to rain abit so I packed it up, do the other side tomorow... Here's how it went... Had 1 ripped boot (the one the big slidder goes thru, its the only boot/seal in the 3rd pic), cleaned them (rust/scale off the brakes) for an hour then slapped the grease to them and put em' back on til tomorow when I get new ones... The hardest part was breakin the bolts free without twisting them off, and having no room to do it, with only a ratchet set (no power/air tools)... Probably buy some paint tomorow too... Like how I emptied the can of WD40, LOL...

*I saved the best for last... How do you bleed your brakes by yourself... LOL

And yeah I know, ghetto jack stand...

quicksliver · Post by **quicksliver** » May 18th, 2005, 11:15 am

" *I saved the best for last... How do you bleed your brakes by yourself... LOL And yeah I know, ghetto jack stand... "

Just get a piece of clear tubeing, and an empty container (ex. Soup can).
Pour 1 inch of clean brake fluid into the soup can. Attach one end of the clear tubeing to the bleeder screw on your caliper. Then put the other end into the soup can...makin' sure it's submerged in the 1" of brake fluid you poured in earlier.

Open your hood, and remove the cap to your Brake Fluid Reservior. Loosen the bleeder screw (8mm deep socket) about 1/2 a turn. Get into your car and pump the brakes slowley. NEVER EVER let your brake fluid reservior go below the half way mark....or you could introduce air into the system (which is bad). Continue pumping your brakes until clean brake fluid starts to come out of your brake caliper and there are no bubbles.

Some people will argue my method and tell you to use a Vaccum Gun. Iv'e tried these and have experienced nothing but problems!

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » May 18th, 2005, 4:26 pm

thats awesome how you used that stick to hold the brakes! Imma try it

lol of I am not a fan of flating disk brakes... blek I adjusted my hand brake and now my brakes dont touch the rotor when they are not pressed..itsa pretty awesome lol brakes seem to last a bit longer (rear)

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » May 18th, 2005, 11:49 pm

This is a good post, I just got my car safety inspected because I moved provinces, and my left rear caliper is siezed and the strut is leaking.... I thought they'd find more problems, so I'm happy!

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » May 18th, 2005, 11:57 pm

Another tip.. I see a couple of finger prints on your rotor there.. I cant tell if that tan colored spray can is brake cleaner or not.. but if it isnt.. get some brake cleaner and paper towels and get all the oily finger prints and other stuff off of your rotors surface before you drive on it. Oils and such (even oils from your skin) can penetrate the surface of your brake pads and cause them to glaze up when they heat up. Just a couple of copper pieces

Tunes67

J0HN_R1 · Post by **J0HN_R1** » May 19th, 2005, 8:23 am

Yeah, that was some oily fingerprints on the rotor. The can was white-lith lube, but I wiped them off with a clean rag and actually sanded the rotor abit (as well as the pads)... It cleaned up fine...

Had a little easier go at the other side yesterday, I had the g/f pump the brakes while I bled them... As for the other methods, I just use what I have available...

Now all I need is the rebuild kits for them (3 boots torn/damaged) and do it all again this weekend, this was just to get them un-stuck for Safety Inspect. Like I said before, the hard part was breakin those bolts free. Now I know what I need to fix them...

*edit - and it wasn't "a stick", it was a whole tree (6 feet of white birch)...!!!

John

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » May 19th, 2005, 11:36 pm

lmfao! thats classic dood!

I hope you surfaced the rotors before puttin em on! even if they are new you should sand them.

Also don't neglect to "burnish" the pads to the rotors since they are new. I have a procedure on my website under the tech articles.

J0HN_R1 · Post by **J0HN_R1** » May 20th, 2005, 11:56 pm

J0HN_R1 wrote: Yeah, that was some oily fingerprints on the rotor. The can was white-lith lube, but I wiped them off with a clean rag and actually sanded the rotor abit (as well as the pads)... It cleaned up fine...

This isnt my first time doin brakes, just didnt want to do it by myself in my parking lot... Friends/relatives garages provide a better sense of security, if something breaks or you need to go get a part they're there to help or drive...