Replacing Fuel Filter

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psneddon
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Replacing Fuel Filter

Post by psneddon »

Hi,

Got myself a few parts to replace by myself - air filter, fuel filter etc. In the manuals it says that the fuel filter is attached to the firewall. However in my car (1997 UK V6) it is behind the engine at the bottom of the engine bay. I can get easy enough access to unclap it but I can't see or get to the fuel hose at one end of it.

So my question is, if I unclamp it and remove it does the fuel lines stretch enough to allow me to replace it easily? Just like to know before I try it.

Regards,
Paul Sneddon
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XxantwawnxX
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Post by XxantwawnxX »

I had to remove my battery and my throttlebody to remove the fuel filter easier. i dont think the hoses stretch very far if at all. I reloacted the fuel filter so its really easy to get to after my first switch.
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

Just did mine last week. Like Tunes said removing battery is a big help. Mine is also not attached to the firewall. I loosened the 2 mounting bolts and gently pryed opened the retaining clamp. Enough so that I could slide the old filter far enough to remove the clamps and hoses, remove filter and re-install new filter. I had to squeeze the retaining clamp back together again and replace the 2 mounting bolts. Ensure pressure is relieved from system by opening the gas cap prior to change.
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Tunes67
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Post by Tunes67 »

Like Tunes Said? LOL I didnt say nothin LOL I havent the foggiest idea where the fuel filter is even on my car at this point.. LMAO

Tunes67
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

Tunes67 wrote:Like Tunes Said? LOL I didnt say nothin LOL I havent the foggiest idea where the fuel filter is even on my car at this point.. LMAO
Tunes67
:laugh: Very BIG OOOOPS.....LMAO...Well,....It sounded like you :laugh:
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georgechicken
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Post by georgechicken »

Typically,on both the firewall, and transmission mounted fuel filters, the hoses are just long enough to have saved mazda a few bucks in production by not using longer ones to make life a bit easier. :) They're quite short. It sounds like yours is probably mounted to the transmission. If that's the case, then removing the intake and battery truly helps. If you're feeling adventurous (which you should...) then buy a few feet of fuel hose and go ahead and replace the rubber fuel hoses while you're under there. Many of the Mazdas Ive worked on hadnt had the fuel filter replaced in such a long time that the fuel hoses tore when coming off. When you replace the hoses, cut the one that carries the gas from the pump into the inlet about a foot or so longer than the original one, and that way, when you go to replace the filter again (in 12-24k miles, right? :) ) then you'll have the slack there to make it SOOO much easier. This is also recommended when removing the intake manifold. replace the small coolant hoses under the throttle body with longer hoses to make manifold removal a cinch. I can now pop off the manifold from the 93 SE MX3 that i just finished installing a KLDE in in under 5 minutes... good times.. good luck, and i hope this helps!

daniel
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psneddon
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Post by psneddon »

Thanks for all the little tips. I guess I should spend some time and relocate the filter to a better location. Keep the tips comming :) I'm grateful for all the info.

Paul
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mitmaks
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Post by mitmaks »

what mileage are you supposed to replace it at (v6)
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

mitmaks wrote:what mileage are you supposed to replace it at (v6)
Every 60,000 miles/96,000km or every 60 months whichever comes first. That's the max as per shop manual. For me every 3 years just to be safe.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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mitmaks
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Post by mitmaks »

theres another one by the fuel tank
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georgechicken
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Post by georgechicken »

What you're referring to, mitmaks, is the "low pressure" fuel filter. It's actually IN the tank, attached to the fuel pump. It's just a nylon skimmer that clips onto the bottom of the fuel pump, and this keeps visible contaminants and debris from being pulled into the pump and clogging/damaging it. This skimmer sells for 5-10$ typically, and is easily replaced. For good measure, replace this every 3 years or so. It's replaced very easily by removing the rear seat cushion, removing the access cover and fuel hoses from the fuel pump, removing the pump assembly, and just popping the clip off of the old skimmer. slap the new one on with the clip, and put everything back together. Simple stuff.
Good luck!

daniel
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Post by hgallegos915 »

I replaced mine.,,removed battery..oretty simple. I didnt bother poutting the bracket back in..you dont really need it lol
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psneddon
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Post by psneddon »

To lower the fuel pressure before you replace the filter, do you really need to remove the back seat and run the engine with the fuel pump dissconnected?

Paul
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Tunes67
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Post by Tunes67 »

I wondered about that.. read that in the shop manual.. seems to me there has to be a fuse that would do the same thing and be a lot easier to get at.. but I havent researched it yet since I havent needed to. But if you can find a fuse that kills the fuel pump while still allowing the engine to run.. it would do the same thing.

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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

psneddon wrote:To lower the fuel pressure before you replace the filter, do you really need to remove the back seat and run the engine with the fuel pump dissconnected?
Paul
jschrauwen wrote:Ensure pressure is relieved from system by opening the gas cap prior to change.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
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