High Output Alternator

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » February 11th, 2005, 2:09 am

I don't want to argue about this. I love this community too much to b---- on it. Here's my bottom line: I don't really think my amp is 1400 watts, but its enough to break my windows if I wanted it to. Here's the story on my cap. I had this system, but with 2 kenwood subs in another car, and with no cap, my alternator fried and I was also expierencing bad dimming of the headlights. After I replaced the alternator(which was only a few months old when it fried) I went to a stereo shop (Traffic Jamz in Waukegan IL) and they said to try a cap, so I bought a fosgate 1 farad cap and the problem ceased to exsist for a whole year afterwards...and then was transfered to my mx and still works great. No dimming, no fried alternators. My oppinion on this whole thing is that, yes a biggeralternator is the best way to go (I have my GS alternator sittin here waiting for some warm weather), but also a cap, a good battery and wiring and maybe even an engine grounding kit also helps a bit. So yes you are right , but I was just speaking from my personal expierence. No hard feelings

MX-SLICK · Post by **MX-SLICK** » February 11th, 2005, 1:13 pm

none taken

LooseChangeRacing · February 24th, 2005, 3:35 pm

talk to.....*wierd name* here, if you search the forums, his name is posted somewhere, he quotes us I do believe 210 amps for $300

phillyMX3mayn · Post by **phillyMX3mayn** » March 8th, 2005, 2:14 am

does a millenia amp fit with no mods?

reaper of souls · Post by **reaper of souls** » March 20th, 2005, 5:56 pm

i've found it's still just easier to just put a cap on your sub amp and add a grounding kit to the battery and you should have any problems unless you want to push really high power through your system

jbruynson · Post by **jbruynson** » March 21st, 2005, 5:31 pm

LooseChangeRacing wrote:talk to.....*wierd name* here, if you search the forums, his name is posted somewhere, he quotes us I do believe 210 amps for $300

what exactly is this guys name? i couldn't find it. Say I get an alt for my stock gs for now, but soon i'll be putting in a ze, im going to be able to use the same alt right?.

And to the guy that said his 1400 watt max amp will break his windows, lmao thats all I have to say. Maybe if you threw the amp through the window then yes, but you'd be need to in the 160 dbs range at least for that to even have a chance of happening.

reaper of souls · Post by **reaper of souls** » March 22nd, 2005, 12:01 am

[quote="jbruynson]
And to the guy that said his 1400 watt max amp will break his windows, lmao thats all I have to say. Maybe if you threw the amp through the window then yes, but you'd be need to in the 160 dbs range at least for that to even have a chance of happening.[/quote]

i've seen back hachs blown apart running just under 850watts of power through 3 12" rockford punch series it's not hard all he did was wire up the subs to show the amp around 1/2 ohm of resistance power of an amp means sh*t if you know how to wire the subs up right or you just have to find out what frequency the hatch needs to virbrate at to reach destructive potental (roughly it's around a 35 to 39hertz bass note). So 1400w i beleive it and i don't even have to see how there wired up or even what size subs he's running!

manowar821 · Post by **manowar821** » March 22nd, 2005, 3:47 am

All of the available options work as long as you know where to put them and when to.

A high-capacity cap is a good upgrade as long as you know the system can handle the load already, it will stop the flickering, and its nice to have a small buffer in between the not always constant flow of electricity, and your needy sub amp. The cap is like a credit card for electricity. You still have to pay it back once its been used.

The upgrades you'll want to focus on FIRST are a grounding upgrade (make it yourself or buy one of those ebay ones). If you haven't the power to give to your system, you need an alternator. I haven't gotten a HO Alternator for a while, seeing as my system is fine in this car. Make sure you have large enough gauge wires on everything in your car, re-wiring is definately worth it.
Make sure your wires are safe, and none of them are shorting anywhere. Invest in some high quality signal cables to go from your headunit to the amp. And last but DEFINATELY not least, connect your sub or multiple subs CORRECTLY.
I've seen plenty of people fry their amps because they hook the subs up in such a way that causes the ohm-load to be too low, and the amp throws too much power and overheats. Lower ohm resistance does not mean better sound, if you blow everything up. If an amp says it's 2 ohm stable, make sure they don't mean 2 ohm PER SPEAKER.

I'll... stop now.

jbruynson · Post by **jbruynson** » March 22nd, 2005, 2:57 pm

reaper of souls wrote:[quote="jbruynson]
And to the guy that said his 1400 watt max amp will break his windows, lmao thats all I have to say. Maybe if you threw the amp through the window then yes, but you'd be need to in the 160 dbs range at least for that to even have a chance of happening.

i've seen back hachs blown apart running just under 850watts of power through 3 12" rockford punch series it's not hard all he did was wire up the subs to show the amp around 1/2 ohm of resistance power of an amp means sh*t if you know how to wire the subs up right or you just have to find out what frequency the hatch needs to virbrate at to reach destructive potental (roughly it's around a 35 to 39hertz bass note). So 1400w i beleive it and i don't even have to see how there wired up or even what size subs he's running![/quote]

well he made it sound more like he could get loud enough to acutally shatter the glass, as in spl, which I woudln't believe for a second.

MX-SLICK · Post by **MX-SLICK** » March 22nd, 2005, 11:12 pm

i think the hole breaking glass thing was a figure of speach...he meant it gets loud. idiot

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » March 24th, 2005, 2:52 am

It was just a turn of phrase, damn...This is why I don't post in the stereo forum much. All I meant was its loud as hell and rattles my skull even at the extremely low setting its on now. I don't have anything to prove, so thats all I need to say. I enjoy my system and am content with the power, "don't hate...congratulate"

mx3optidrive · Post by **mx3optidrive** » May 4th, 2005, 8:27 am

check out this place for high output alternators. I got one from them and it cost $230 CDN shipped. I have an RS so the stock alt sucks and they bumped the new alt up to 140amps for me.

http://www.highlandstarter.com/

LooseChangeRacing · Post by **LooseChangeRacing** » May 5th, 2005, 8:00 pm

OK the guys name is something to the " ireggi" effect he is definitly not american lol, someone find his name, this was about a year ago, but yeah he quoted about $300 for 210 amps

V8KOMX3 · Post by **V8KOMX3** » May 7th, 2005, 6:45 am

Well you don't have to have an upgraded alt. I have an ma audio 802sx amp running at 4400 watts continuos to my kicker solo's but at the same time I have a second battery and a 5 farad cap my voltage never goes below 12.6 even when I push it to the max, it usualy stays at the mid to low 13 area. This is all in my gs which has an 80amp alt. The problem with high output alt. is that they produce alot of heat which causes them to burn out faster than a stock alt. I chose to go the route I did because it was about the same price as a high output alt and will last longer, but that's just the opinion of a guy who does this for a living

304N · Post by **304N** » May 27th, 2005, 4:12 am

i ran 4 kicher 15' l7's with 4 rf punch power 1500 bd's and 1 rf punch power 500 all off of the stock alternator. i did have an additional battery and 4 caps (1 for each amp) i had no problems charging or anything.