So along the lines of frame rust and rebuilds

DavidOS · Post by **DavidOS** » January 29th, 2005, 11:04 am

Ok so my front wheel wells have rust.

Im getting stainless steel sheet metal so it can be welled into place.

I am not a welder but does anyone know will i need a MIG or Tig?

and how much that kinda job runs to cut out the rust and weld in the
sheet metal?

anyone know what guage sheet metals the MX3 uses around the engine bay and wheel well?

Rick Johnson · Post by **Rick Johnson** » January 29th, 2005, 1:22 pm

It's gonna cost way more then your car is worth.

-Rick

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » January 29th, 2005, 11:39 pm

First off you can't weld stainless steel to standerd steel
Does'nt work like that.

Secondly where is the rust you say the front wheel wells,
you have obivily removed all the plastic trim in there and are
looking at the body frame?

DavidOS · Post by **DavidOS** » January 30th, 2005, 1:43 am

plastic trim in the wheel well?? never heard of that before but hey its possible.

Im talking about the weld line behind the struts on the front of the car. There is a rust hole there on each side.

Invisible · Post by **Invisible** » January 30th, 2005, 3:17 am

Its not a plastic trim, its a spray on substance to prevent rusting of the wheel well. Its black and bumpy? dunno how else you would go about describing it. The idea behind it is to prevent the water/road salt from touching the actual body inside the well. Most people would also use a mig for that kind of welding, but if I was you, I woulden't waste the $$$'s, just cut out the hole's (im assuming they are small holes) and get it patched up then if you don't have any "trim" inside the wells, I would adress that next,.

Invis

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » January 30th, 2005, 4:56 am

If theres no plastic "trim" you will be looking at the wiring loom
that runs to the front of the car on both sides.

Yes body protector or underseal as its called is sprayed on in the
wheel wells as well....

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » January 30th, 2005, 12:00 pm

Yes you can weld dissimilar metals such as Stainless steel to regular mild steel. It is usually recommended that over-alloyed austenitic welding rods, such as 309, be used to minimise dilution effects on the stainless steel component. MIG or TIG will work equally well but the cost of 309 welding rods or wire is costly. A roll of MIG wire can be as much as $150-$350 and is not available in 1 or 2 lb rolls. As with welding any Stainless material the back side of the weld will need to be back purged with a second source of inert gas in addition to the one around the arc to prevent the "sugering" of the stainless or the contamination of the weld to nitrogen in the air which can lead to the stainless steel to corrode.

kiwi_MX3 wrote:First off you can't weld stainless steel to standerd steel
Does'nt work like that.

Secondly where is the rust you say the front wheel wells,
you have obivily removed all the plastic trim in there and are
looking at the body frame?

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » January 30th, 2005, 4:09 pm

just replace it with regular metal, use MIG welder, preferrably gas one, cant go wrong with that one. then use etching primer, epoxy and then use good undercoating, will last you another 30 or so years before some rust might show from excessive winter driving

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » January 30th, 2005, 8:06 pm

Even better that rattle can etching primer would be to treat the bare metal with something like POR-15 Metal-Ready which will leave a zinc phosphate coating with a good tooth on the bare metal for the paint to adhere to. On my own projects I then brush or spray on coat of POR-15 anti rust coating. POR-15 has several advantages in that in stops rust but catalyzes with exposure to humidity to form a nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. The thing I like is that there is no chance of an incorrect mix like with two part paint systems that can cause problems later and as the POR-15 is exposed to water it become stronger. Regular paints become porous as that dry and the solvents evaporate leaving micro pores for water to wick into. It also can be used on badly rusted steel to fill small holes and pitted areas that strengthen the underlying metal at the same time which no paint can do. The other good thing is that it also protects from spills and drips of brake fluid, gas, solvents and acids that will affect other paints and coatings. the only disadvantage is that it with degrade when exposed to sunlight and must be covered with paint or a UV resistant coating.

Invisible · Post by **Invisible** » January 30th, 2005, 8:06 pm

mitmaks wrote:just replace it with regular metal, use MIG welder, preferrably gas one, cant go wrong with that one. then use etching primer, epoxy and then use good undercoating, will last you another 30 or so years before some rust might show from excessive winter driving

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » January 30th, 2005, 9:56 pm

I ment good quality self etching primer like PPG brand, its not cheap either. Would never recommend spray can to do any kind of body repair

mx3TT · Post by **mx3TT** » January 30th, 2005, 11:27 pm

yeah POR-15 is crazy. Just dont get it on your skin becuase it wont come off for a while. Make sure you get a MIG with gas but if not they make wire with a flux(i think its called) coating on them otherwise it wont weld right. Dont pay anyone to do this job unless its a friend that can weld becuase rust repair is rediculously expensive.

DavidOS · Post by **DavidOS** » February 24th, 2005, 8:48 pm

thought you should all know

160 bucks fully fixed:)

not expensive at all.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » February 26th, 2005, 9:39 am

hehe..not exp at all.