question for anyone experienced w/ bondo/glassing

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95mx3
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question for anyone experienced w/ bondo/glassing

Post by 95mx3 »

im experienced w/ glassing and bondo work (mostly dashes and interior pieces) although i was wondering would i run into any problems down the line, if i just did a coat of filler(bondo) and finishing cream on interior pieces such as the MX pillars up to the headliner?! when i do dashes and systems i ALWAYS put down a least 2 coats of glass then (1)bondo, (1or2)finisher, (1)primer, (3or4)paint and (2or3)clear. although since there isnt really any pressure on those pieces (also glove box and piece that goes around gauge cluster and down to head unit) can i just get away with no glass? lemme know guys! thanks!!
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mitmaks
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Re: question for anyone experienced w/ bondo/glassing

Post by mitmaks »

you can definitely try, although glass over it would be best first, if youre putting filler on it, rought up area real good first so it etches to it
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fry_81
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Re: question for anyone experienced w/ bondo/glassing

Post by fry_81 »

id greatly suggest putting glass down first just to be sure it wont crack. better to do it the first time, far easier to work with now than later.
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95mx3
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Re: question for anyone experienced w/ bondo/glassing

Post by 95mx3 »

yeah.... ive been doing my friends pillars and interior pieces such as that with what i said above, 2 coats glass and so on. i was just wondering if i could cheat (successfully) on it. but like u said better doin more work now rather than later!! thanks for your advice guys!
95 Mazda MX-3 DOHC 4cyl.. 17's, Cat Back w/ 4.5in Tip, Custom Int.(CF Bezel,White and Black, 7"AutoMeter Tach, 4 Neons Hit W/ Bass, $375 Kenwood Headunit), $1300 Custom System(Including 2.25Farad Cap. Custom Built Box w/ 2 cut outs for 6x9's, 2 12" Infinity's, 1200w Amp, 4 tweeters. It might not be as fast, but it sure as hell looks and sounds better than a Honda! CF Invert. hood! Primer&Fittin Drift Front and Sides w/ K-Max Rear.
DJsMX-3
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Post by DJsMX-3 »

This is a bit interresting, Ive read somewhere in one or more of the fibreglassing howto's that you shouldent resin fibreglass onto plastic because it would be very brittle or crack or something because the wouldent adhere to the plastic...

So you guys are saying that you can put fibreglass ontop of the MX's A-pillars??
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lakersfan1
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Post by lakersfan1 »

What are you looking to do? Bondo and fiberglass don't stick as well as most would like to plastic. There are sandable plastic fillers you can get you know. 3M and SEM both make sandable plastic fillers that you can pick up at pretty much any auto body supply store.
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Post by DJsMX-3 »

Were you asking me lakersfan1? Im going to put my tweeters in the A-pillars to get the best sound but need to mold them in nice...

I read somewhere that fibreglass wouldnt stick well ontop of plastic, so i was hoping it would bond better with speakercloth because its so thin and stretchy..

Got a better idea?
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
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Post by MrMX3 »

DJsMX-3 wrote: Im going to put my tweeters in the A-pillars to get the best sound but need to mold them in nice...
To get the best sound your tweeter should be no more than 6" from your mid-bass driver. Having it up in your a-pillar will greatly raise the sound field as well as make the high pitched frequencies be the first thing your ears hear... If you want proper imaging keep them low by your driver, if you want your ears to bleed put them high so it's the only thing you hear...
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DJsMX-3
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Post by DJsMX-3 »

Its not a problem theyre high quality speakers, and i can dampen the tweeters by 3 and even 6db in the xover i believe so that should be more than enough..

Allso best audiofile sound is when tweeters is in earlevel height and farthest away so the left/right difference gets minimised, just have to raise the mids as much as its possible and then angle them good :wink:
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
lakersfan1
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Post by lakersfan1 »

DJsMX-3 wrote: Got a better idea?
Yeah. Enroll in a Hooked On Phonics class. I just wrote an answer, and yet you're still asking.
DJsMX-3
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Post by DJsMX-3 »

Maybe youre just stupid or something? I asked if it was me that you were answering..

Since your answer maybe wasent meant for me and you didnt know i was thinking about resening speakercloth on it, your answer didnt apply to my situation :roll:
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
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