My check engine light has been coming on and when I had it hooked up to the computer it said the cause was too warm of air coming into the intake. I have a PRM intake with the metal tube directed into the fender area. The thing that baffles me is that the light comes on not only after the car is warm but when the rpm's are consistently over 3000...generally on the freeway at cruising speed (55-65). Why would then be the time that the air gets too warm? It seems like there would be more than enough airflow to keep it cool. Has anyone encountered this before? I need to take my car through DEQ and they won't test it if there is a warning light on.
Steve
check engine light with PRM intake
Re: check engine light with PRM intake
did you try resetting your ECU? When ever you get an aftermarket intake you have to reset your ECU. This may or may not help, but my friend who has a 2003 Lancer put a AEM intake on and it sucked *ss at first, but then we just disconnected the ground from the battery for 30 seconds and then cranked the car up and she ran like a beauty! Its something to do with the MAF. Hope this helps.
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Re: check engine light with PRM intake
Well, I have the code reset according to the instructions. I've also had some stereo work done since then (an amp as well as a powered sub...both done at different times) so I believe the battery has been disconnected for more than 30 seconds. Is there something else that has to be done to reset the ECU?
Re: check engine light with PRM intake
Not always necessary, but this makes sure: With the battery disconnected, hold the brake pedal down for 30 sec, to ensure the ECU is fully discharged.
However, if you're getting Code 10, it could be a problem with the connector or the wiring to the thermosensor (built into the VAF) or the sensor itself. If it always happens with the revs above 3000 it could be either vibration, or engine movement on the mounts putting strain on the connections.
<small>[ March 04, 2004, 02:52 PM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
However, if you're getting Code 10, it could be a problem with the connector or the wiring to the thermosensor (built into the VAF) or the sensor itself. If it always happens with the revs above 3000 it could be either vibration, or engine movement on the mounts putting strain on the connections.
<small>[ March 04, 2004, 02:52 PM: Message edited by: IanL ]</small>
Re-shaped and re-sized gearshift lever. Best driveability mod you can do!
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
Extra thick soundproofing in the boot (trunk) to quieten my stainless steel exhaust system
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Re: check engine light with PRM intake
did you hook up that little hose that came off hte stock box to your intake? i kept getting CEL when i put my intake in and i just capped that hose off
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy