high output alternators

[g3939]

I have a 1.8 alternator and have heard that they are 90 amps. I'm running 900 watts RMS(700 bass and 50x4 on highs)and I plan on adding another 1000 watt amp. This will total 1900watts RMS and 3800watts peak. The car does great with the power now, the lights won't dim or anything, but I would like to know if anyone knows of a high current aftermarket alt for the mx-3 or would the one from a 2.5 fit and have more power?

<small>[ October 27, 2004, 07:49 AM: Message edited by: Third mixer ]</small>

[Gro Harlem]

2.5 one is identical to the 1.8 one.

i've read that you can adapt a MPV 110amp one to fit, otherwise you'd have to have yours remanu'd by a shop.

[Street-Import]

Just use a KLZE millenia Alternator
its 110 amp! no hassle, plug in

[lakersfan1]

Try the Millenia one at 110 like said above. Rewound ones can induce system noise into your stereo, and don't make as much power at idle as your stock. For a good aftermarket one, you're talking $500. A used or refurbed Millenia one should be much cheaper.

[Nd4SpdSe]

the one that came with my ZE had a different connect with an extra pin...

[g3939]

thanks for the input guys, I am going to just try to run all the amps together under 90 amps. the amps are Jensen A400HLX(running highs, four 4ohm 6"), a Crunch P125.4(running two 12" Kicker L6s), and a Phoenix Gold QX900.1D(running a JL audio W6-18inch sub at 3ohms). I just bought a CA-200X Sting Pro 2 Farad cap, and if this doesn't work, I'll know soon I guess.

[paul ukmx3]

you should be fine with your standard 90A alt....make sure all your cabling is up to scratch,if possible upgrade earth cables to 0awg and use 0awg power cable to distrobutioin block in the boot and then your amplifiers.

im running 3 amps off mine,a jl 500/1 a jl 300/2 and a us amps tu600 with a potential maximum currant draw of 150A,but you have to remember you will probably only ever be drawing a fraction of your total possible currant draw.

and just because its possible for you to draw more than you alternator is rated at doesnt mean you wont be able to get it,remember your car battery is there,and that is about the biggest capacitor you will get,its probably about 30000F and a decent battery should be able to handle peeks here and there.

if when youve upgraded all your cables and if you suffer from light dimming try using a split chqarge and mounting another battery in the boot,im not such a fan of using capacitors in the boot purely for power,they can have there uses but they have more uses in an sq sound system rather than an spl system.

[g3939]

thanks again for the info, the cap has arrived and now im waiting on my leq10 to clean up my highs and a two gauge wireing kit. I will go to an audio store and get a 0 gauge wire for the ground and install it similar to this guy at http://www.sounddomain.com/id/bumpnglow_mx3 . maybe this will work, I'll put it in the audio forum when im done. ALTERNATOR!!!!!

<small>[ November 19, 2004, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: Third mixer ]</small>

[g3939]

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/bumpnglow_mx3

[g3939]

march21, 2001 the power is there. I have 1900 watts and the lights don't even dim. I hooked up a volt meter and it always reads 14.2volts when I start the car and after about five minutes it(and the digital cap)read 13.5 . Thanks for the advice "paul ukmx-3" I reenforced the ground cable with two gauge wire and now my volt meter doesn;t dip when I hit the brakes. I guess Ill just keep playing the system for a while to see if my electrical system maintains, but for now my mx-3 sounds LOUD.

<small>[ October 27, 2004, 07:50 AM: Message edited by: Third mixer ]</small>