Ummm ...is this an ok way to do this (Axle)?

[Cage]

Ok,
I am going down the list of things to do and I got to the pain in arse Axle removel part .... well I tried for over 2 hours and bent 4 screw drives trying to remove the damn drivers side axle....So I said Fu*k it and cut the boot off the inner axle and pulled out the tripod joint Prob solved. I will remove the cup with the splines later when I get the engine out... Unless you think I made a mistake doing this. Looking for feedback on this. Thanks <p>

[zevirii]

Are you doing a Engine swap? Is that why you did this? If so you didn't have to do all that..

[Cage]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by zevirii:
Are you doing a Engine swap? Is that why you did this? If so you didn't have to do all that..<hr></blockquote><p>Dude! Weird you were the one to respond to this post....I printed out your engine swap info to help me with my swap...
I know I didn't have to remove the whole rotor and disconnect everything ..but I am replacing the front calipers all struts, rotors, as well as all wheel bearings, and replacing all the Cv boots. WHY! ..because this car has not ran for over a year and almost everything is rust froze ..even the damn caliper retaining springs are almost 100% pure iron oxide.
What I can't figure out is why everybodys swap web site says to pull the whole drivers side Axle from the trainie..why can't we just seperate it at the tri joint ??
I love your website, can I ask how much you spent on the blue paint job ?
Thank you for taking the time!<p>Cage

[Mradio]

instead of replacing the CV boots, you should just get remanufactured axles with like lifetime warranty. That will save you some more pain in the a$$. While you at it, try replacing the axle seals in the transmission, they are only like $8 each at the dealer, just a suggestion

[Mradio]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Cage:
<p>
Dude! Weird you were the one to respond to this post....I printed out your engine swap info to help me with my swap...
I know I didn't have to remove the whole rotor and disconnect everything ..but I am replacing the front calipers all struts, rotors, as well as all wheel bearings, and replacing all the Cv boots. WHY! ..because this car has not ran for over a year and almost everything is rust froze ..even the damn caliper retaining springs are almost 100% pure iron oxide.
What I can't figure out is why everybodys swap web site says to pull the whole drivers side Axle from the trainie..why can't we just seperate it at the tri joint ??
I love your website, can I ask how much you spent on the blue paint job ?
Thank you for taking the time!<p>Cage<hr></blockquote><p>I don't think the driver's side has a tripod joint, the passenger side does. So you do have to remove the axle from the driver's side to get the engine out.

[lazzyie]

Screwdrivers??? Dude CROWBAR!!!

[David Coleman]

Yeah...<p>screw drivers = screws
prybar = prying stuff like axles<p>Ever use a screw driver to drive nails? :p <p>Get a nice big prybar and it should pop out. I never use the little c clips on the new axles anyways, cause it was such a pain the first time I did it.<p>You drained your tranny already right?

[dennisvs]

you guys are right about that !
A crow bar at least !!
I needed my fat mechanic to jump on it
You need a big screw drawer for this pal

[Cage]

I didnt have one avail ...so I used a BFS (big fuc*ing screwdriver) ... Ummm my question is why do I need to remove the cup at all? and yes the trijoint is on both axles...it is what is mated to the cup with the splines. as for new axels ..there is no need for new ones they are healthy the refirb axels are kinda pricie and not in stock local. back to the axles ...I did this on the passanger side too...I didnt feel like unbolting the 3 bolts on the passinger side
thanks for the feedback<p>Cage

[lazzyie]

just more stuff to catch on the wiring and stuff that is left in the engine bay.