Shifting Problem

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 7th, 2002, 6:49 am

Just started today were its hard to shift the gears now. I got to put alittle force into it now. Not alot but enough to make it annoying and track racing will be very hard to do like this. I am almost 100% sure its because the Clutch. I have a ACT clutch. When I first got it we had to let the adjustment for the clutch pedal all the way out so the car was drivable. It would engage after the adjustment about 2 inchs off the floor. Now for some reason its engaging about .5 to 1 inch again. I read somewhere about someone making a 3/8" rod to put in the clutch cylinder to replace the stock rod. Can't find the post anymore, but what are the measurements and did you weld the little head piece on the new rod? Thanks

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 7th, 2002, 1:55 pm

I checked the tranny fluid and it has a slight leak at on of the bottom rear bolts. Its got some chips out of the metal there too..(Junk yard tranny). I think this is a very small leak and the tranny fluid is most likely not that low. I put the car on ramps so it is sitting at a angle, and I didn't feel any fluid in there however I filled it when it was level. SO I will go buy some more of that Redline MT90 stuff and add some to it.. I still think the clutch is the main cause though. Who was the one posting about lengthing the rod for the clutch cylinder?

lazzyie · Post by **lazzyie** » December 7th, 2002, 9:18 pm

Dave did and it wasnt the exact length. Might try bleeding it alot and replacing the damn rubber clutch line that helped mine a lot

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 8th, 2002, 5:54 am

I haven't bleed the system yet, but heard of the 3/8 inch steel rod that David put in and thought that would just be easier.. Brakes act fine, and clutch acted fine before it was replaced so I think the system should be fine... I might replace that rubber line one of these days, but right now I am out of cash.. hehe

lazzyie · Post by **lazzyie** » December 8th, 2002, 5:18 pm

I bleed through 1/2 the brake fluid after my swap before the thing worked right again.

David Coleman · Post by **David Coleman** » December 8th, 2002, 5:47 pm

I just replaced my slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and bled my ACT all out. The engagement point is at the very top of the pedal right now. 2 other ways of bringing the engagement point up [besides the adjustment screw on the pedal] are to shim the clutch fork pivot with a few washers, or to put a longer rod in the slave cylinder. Make sure your hydraulic system is in good order, including the failure prone rubber clutch hose. The heavier pressure plates put alot more pressure on that hose than stock. Corksport has a SS clutch hose for ~25USD shippped.

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 9th, 2002, 5:38 am

on the longer rod. What was the length you did? Did you weld the little head piece on the new rod from the old rod?

therealstasman · Post by **therealstasman** » December 9th, 2002, 10:59 pm

David Coleman · Post by **David Coleman** » December 9th, 2002, 11:26 pm

I did not weld the little head piece on. Just used 3/8" stock about a 1/2" longer than normal in there.No, you can't drive the car with all that air in the clutch line! Well, if your idea of driving involves the clutch disengaging that is...

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 10th, 2002, 4:39 am

Well I added the steel dowl. It was 5/16 inch(same as the stock one). It was alittle shorter that 1/2 and inch.. Either way great Idea david. It works GREAT... Feels like a knife in hot butter now when shifting... I love it... THANKS ALOT!!!!

IanL · Post by **IanL** » December 10th, 2002, 5:06 pm

I have a similar problem, with the engagement point just off the carpet. Not sure I've understood correctly; is the extra steel rod just put in loose between the master cylinder piston and the pushrod?

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 11th, 2002, 5:14 am

Look at the Clutch. There is the clutch cylinder that engages the clutch folk.. In that cylinder there is a rod. The rod is pushed out to engage the clutch folk. All you do is unbolt the cylinder from the block pull out the rod and the replace it with the new rod.. I can make you a rod and ship it to ya for $10 including shipping.. Let me know...

IanL · Post by **IanL** » December 11th, 2002, 5:10 pm

Thanks, Zevirii, really good of you. I'll email you.Ian

voltaire · Post by **voltaire** » December 12th, 2002, 6:16 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by zevirii: I can make you a rod and ship it to ya for $10 including shipping.. Let me know...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I bet you didn't notice he was in the U.K. when you quoted that price including shipping...

zevirii · Post by **zevirii** » December 12th, 2002, 6:19 am

Hehe we just talked about that in a email I sent him... Your right I didn't notice but I thought no big deal shiping would only be like $5 anyway... Well I looked it up and UPS and FedX both want $40 to ship something the size of a damn pencil to the UK... That is a MAJOR LOAD OF BS!!!! Oh well.. If he wants to pay it I will make it hehe....But $50 for this little part would be INSANE!!!

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