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If you're talking about the speedo cable, no, it's different than the RS. The one that comes with it is electronic, and the RS is cable driven. The 1.6L Protoge had a cable as well, and the gear from that tranny is the correct length. I have the BP and Protoge tranny, and all I had to do was use the...

That's pretty much it. It's not a risky rig at all. You may have to experiment with the length of the rod, so your clutch won't slip, like he said, but when you find the right length for your car, it'll be fine.

Actually, I just greased in between the end of the fork that is exposed (by the front tranny mount) and the slave cylinder rod. The "tips" that are inside the tranny may be my problem though. I really wish I had the time to take it all apart and try some grease in there...

Well, I tried some grease and it didn't do much. I guess I just have to keep working on it...

The rod is in the Hardware isle with the nuts and bolts. They have square rod, threaded rod and just plain round rod, which is what I used. I bought like 3 feet of it for $4 I think. It's pretty cheap. It'll leave you some to expiriment with as well. I just found one that was the same thickness as t...

If you have bled all the air out of the system and it still doesn't release, then it could be one of a few problems... - Try replacing the hose that connects between the line from the master cylinder and the line to the slave cylinder. These hoses are the weakest link and are known to flex, robbing ...

Just get a muffler that you like from your local auto store, take it to a shop and ask them to install it. If you can't find a muffler locally (which I would find very hard to believe), the shop you take it to can probably order one for you or point you in the right direction. You obviously have int...

If you're looking to save money you should think about a plain BP from a Protoge or an Escort. I got mine for like $200 with 45k on it. The swap is really easy...if you have a SOHC it's plug and play. You can always put a turbo on it later...

So to confirm what you're saying...with the electrical connection to the MAF NOT connected, the car runs. But with that same connection CONNECTED, the car will not run? That's really odd because from personal experience and reading on the forums, I didn't think the car would run at all without the M...

That's funny, I think I have the same problem, but mine is more of a squeak/chatter. When the car is running, try putting some pressure (up or down, towards or away from the ground) on the clutch fork where the rod from the slave cylinder is. My sound went away when I did this, leading me to believe...

I certainly hope you mean it was pouring out water/coolant. The sensor under the distributor cap turns on the fan according to the temperature of the engine coolant, not the oil. It screws into the cover that goes over the thermostat. That being said, the switch should be connected to the engine har...

As a matter of fact, the oil pressure sensors for each motor have the same part number. So as far as I can tell, the temperature sensor is the only one that needs to be changed when using an Escort motor with an MX-3 instrument cluster.

That gets me thinking...should I change the oil pressure sensor as well? There may be a difference in that one too, which would prevent the oil pressure light on the instrument cluster from coming on...

Gotta go check some part numbers...

Here's a little note for anyone who's BP is running a little hot... At first I thought I needed a water pump, radiator, sensors, or SOMETHING, because periodically, the motor would go up to 3/4 on the temp gauge, then the fan would turn on and it would go back down to 1/2. I thought this was odd, be...

All that being said, the BP is running great now...a few small problems, but it's down to tweaking now. I have to say, the swap was a learning experience. Not so much learning from my mistakes (I followed one hell of a write-up, thanks Typhoonk!), since everything went smooth for the most part. But ...