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well, buying a BPT would be incredibly expensive considering they have to be imported, and they're harder to find... a BP should run you 250-400 bucks (I got mine for 350). For an imported used BPT? you're looking at a CHUNK more than that.... blech! if you buy a BP engine, you could get the BPT exh...

no way... you definitely don't want ANY air coming through the EGR valve.... get an egr valve plate from one of those racing kits for the miatas, and seal it with silicone when you push it on if any air gets through the EGR valve, it'll be unmetered, and the air/fuel ratio will be off, potentially l...

I assume that you can weld cast iron to stainless steel without that bi-metal corrosion nastiness... can anyone back that up?

It really should be a cheap job. 5 minutes at the most

my bad... I was just reading johnboi's topic on his test pipe and got your names fumbled up. /me commits seppuku to regain his lost honor :P alright, as long as you have a catalytic converter, then you shouldn't have too much trouble with normal CO emissions... but NOx might be a problem with taking...

forget burning oil.... their engines suck harrrrd... my dad's caravan's valve lifters blew out a little while ago (120k miles, it sucks) no, it's not gonna kill trees, it's gonna kill the ozone, and THAT'S gonna kill trees. Need proof? Pre-converter era L.A. Besides, using a test pipe instead of a h...

actually, it isn't useless... it legitimately reduces emissions at cold start by a huge amount, not to mention reduces combustion temperatures, therefore making things less likely to knock. Because at WOT it's turned off, and because it's such an important emissions control, AND because in many, man...

actually, you COULD use the stock tranny from the MX-3, but that'd be a recipe for disaster with the BPT's power... As I recall, the only cars that came with the BPT engine were the Japanese and Australian late '80s 323 GTXes (the more common ones) and GTRs (the incredibly rare ones) I'm going to as...

I read somewhere (can't remember where, sorry) that at WOT, the ECU bypasses the EGR valve anyway...

alright... I bought a 32mm axle nut ratchet end thingy in case I needed to, I'm just saying that the shop manual didn't say anything about it. whatev :P removing the axle nuts sounds easier anyway, because getting the suspension mechanism thing or whatever I need to get off sounds nasty. went out an...

alright.... I guess since I can't seem to get the engine back onto the tranny, I'll just umount the tranny and axles, and slide it to the right and down off the engine. That really seems to be the only way to really do this right. So.... that brings me to actually getting the axles off (the hard bit...

I HAVE removed the belts, pulleys, accesories, mounts (except the passenger side mount), etc... no workie On top of that, I can't shuffle the engine back onto the tranny... so I'm just gonna see if I can't strap the tranny to my friend's giant jack, and pull that out separate from the engine and on ...

oh yeah, another thing.... do I HAVE to remove those nuts? they really do look like they're on the verge of self-destruction

if I do, what size are they? 27mm?

because.... TyphoonK suckered me with an easy way out... the bastard XD XD XD whatev.... can't hold grudges, especially when the person you hold it against is way the hell away, so it ain't like I can go and give him a what-for :P alright... I'm gonna go see if I can't put the engine back onto the t...

oh, and a shout-out to TyphoonK.... damn you to hell for making things look so easy to pull the engine without removing the tranny in your BP swap journal

what's involved with pulling the axles out? I read all about people saying that they had a b---- of a time getting the axle nuts off, and looking at mine, it looks like I'd destroy them if I tried to.... reading the shop manual doesn't help either.... it just says insert a bar to pry them off the tr...