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The SOHC 1.8L engine, the B8, supposedly has BETTER milage than the B6, and about 100 horses or so, if you're interested in that. It came in the non-LX Proteges.

shoulda searched for it buddy... anyway, to make life a little easier, Gro said that despite it being of an essentially more efficient design than the B6, for some reason the BP gets pretty "crappy" gas milage at around 26 mpg for him on average. The BPT should get similar economy as long ...

heh.... I bet the Mazda BP valve cover'd pop on no problem... if I was gonna use an Escort motor that's what I'd do... I $!%$ing can't stand fords

w00t! I got the new engine in my car earlier today.... it fits perfectly, just as it should. Only one major annoyance that I really have to point out: When you install your new throwout bearing with your clutch, make SURE that your clutch fork is seated properly. A short guide to installing the bear...

I know the tranny's in neutral, so... hmmm.... On that note, for some reason, when I put it into gear, and turn the axle, it turns no problem, even though it's hooked up to the engine... is that just because of the differential? The other side rotates in the opposite direction it seems, so I don't t...

weird..... there's something in the intake manifold called VRIS where it alters the runner length to let in more air, which starts to open around there, I believe, but I doubt that'd be the problem. Maybe it's a bad oxygen sensor or air flow meter? Is this problem there when he floors it? That'd be ...

that expendable nut is for removing the axles from the wheel assembly... I'm trying to get it out of the transmission itself... it's just dangling there off the end of my engine :P What are you trying to do that requires disconnecting the engine mount member? Replacing the axles should be relatively...

for some reason, my passenger side axle came out no problem, but my driver side axle is stuck in the transmission really hard... I have no idea why... I've tried a crowbar, screwdrivers... everything... any advice people?

Amen.

heh... that's pretty much where I'm at right now in my own swap... I'm about to pull the transmission in a few minutes, and I'll bolt it up to the new engine when I can.... I'm getting a bit hungry though... it's almost 1 P.M. and I haven't had breakfast. Neither of my folks are home though, so no c...

well, if you lower it by like, an inch, it wouldn't be too bad, remember that the lowering springs are stiffer, so it'll drop less on potholes... the downside is that... well... it's stiffer

no, you need the wiring harness, engine and tranny mounts, tranny, axles, possibly the GS steering unit (although I kinda doubt it... it's better though! :P) and all sorts of other junk. Ain't worth it. Even Vaughn Nishimura says so. There's a reason why it says "NOT RECOMMENDED" when you ...

no offense, but you'd have to be NUTS to try an I4 to V6 swap. If you REALLY want a fast motor, get a BP motor, and turbo it. There are plenty of aftermarket parts available for it too. Miata parts can often be made to work with them, making it quite easy to find bits.

if they put in solid lifters (which I bet they did, if you had the head built), then yeah, they're the metal things right under the cams, where normally you'd have the valve springs. other than telling you that, I have no idea how else I can help you. I've never replaced valve seals, sorry. I saw th...

good start so far... thanks Perry. 23. find release buttons for rear seat (should be placed under seat at about 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way along, near the shelf) and remove seat cushion 24. start the car, and unplug the fuel pump connector that is revealed. After car stalls out, try starting it a c...