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Any reason in particular?

They are cheap... I could barely give my old one away. I know a guy who has 4 at his house.

* KL-DE and KL-03 are the same thing*

no intest in this huh?

What makes you think that it's running lean under load?

I also thought I'd say you don't really need oversized vavles if you are going turbo since everything is being forced. It helps, but isn't imperitive. So if you are looking for ways to save cash, there you go!

UDP - Under Drive Pulley They are fine if you get the whole motor balanced with the pulley on. Otherwise they aren't the best for your motor. Toda's aren't really worth it. I mean they are great, but what do they cost??? $600 or so? Why not go with a good regrind for turbo? MUCH cheaper with better ...

Sometimes they will have a nut welded onto the bottom of the pan for you to thread a bolt into and that will sepatate the pan from the block.

They resemble a wing nut and would be at the bottom of the radiator if it has one.

What fluid are you talking about? Tranny fluid? Not in a stick shift hopefully. Might be your syncros going bad...You will probably need a rebuild. Yeah, MT's won't shift well without fluid. Trust me. Also they can lose it through the axle seals. I'm not saying tha's his problem from sure, but it w...

Cpl_Bryant wrote:Seems like a lot less work than the common rear disc swap. Is the MX-3 GS the ONLY subframe that will work and have the rear disc breaks?

I'm sure on that one. Maybe some Protege's had rear discs. As far as MX-3's I think the GS is the only one with rear discs.

Sam Baker wrote:thats gotta be the dirtiest mx3 i've ever seen props!

Thanks. It takes skills like no fender liners, dirt roads, water, and the need to slide around every corner!

Further inspection of my MX-3 showed that the rear suspension needed a little attention. Both lower control arms were bent... on each side. The tires were worn horribly with massive postive camber! Also the sway bar was slightly bent because a broken end link was rubbing on it from the side. All of ...

Ps, the Mazda manual sais both RS and GS have a 22mm rear stabalizer, but we know this isn't true, the GS has a 22mm solid and the RS I'm not sure the diameter, but I know it is hollow. I wish my parts catalog worked so I could check. Anyone know the real numbers? I just swapped in GS rear subframe...

What are the advantages of the JDM-B5Z? Less cc / more compression? Better flow? What about a B5D out of a Protege... how are those heads?