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I wouldn't do it. If you tried turning while hard braking, your steering will become difficult in corners ...... i.e. dangerous. If you drive like a pussy, it might not matter. But the way I drive my MX3, I'd never ditch the power steering.

If you've already got the 9004 conversion kit, just get the lenses off the Euros and seal them to the US bases. Doing a H4 conversion just to do a HID conversion seems just silly.

The stock muffler is round, so my Magnaflow is a round, single outlet aluminized with a Pacesetter resonated chrome tip on the end.

Juans_93_MX3 wrote:

2fazed wrote:You can buy a Magnaflow cat on Ebay for $50-80. Then it''l cost you about $50(depending on where you take it) to put it in.

Would those $50-80 cats actually work tho?

I passed Illinois emissions and Nevada emissions with a Magnaflow cat.

I just left mine when I saw where they were and just upgraded the rear. The rear's more important to be firm anyways to balance out the understeer.

Personally, I'd run a circuit breaker for the main fuse. That would suck to blow a main fuse for some reason and be stranded because you don't have a replacement. I'd probably do a 200 amp to the front to cover all duties.

I don't know if the Probe intake will make a tight enough bend to turn before the battery. What I had to do to keep a short-neck intake was to get a 90 degree bend rubber elbow with a 2.5" to 3" flare. It'll make the turn right away. Then, I just used a 90 Integra intake setup to make a CA...

Typhoonk wrote:Yes Please!!! I deal with a lot of special people!!

You're Canadian. Everyone you deal with has special needs.

Appreciate the replies. I'm looking for a REALLY easy explanation on why a sub blows - instead of just saying "The problem is sitting in the front seat" :D You want the short yellow bus version? Because each sub is made to move so many millimeters in each direction. If you put too much po...

It's not as easy to say distortion blows a sub. When you drive an amplifier past its limits, it will clip the sine wave. When this is done, it will drive the sub to power levels past that of the amp. This is because where the sine squares off, the sub will still be trying to travel in the direction ...

Cap it.

I highly doubt your HR are sagging. It usually takes a decade for stock springs to even begin sag, and HR are harder than stock, so I doubt it. I'd more suspect your shock absorbers are shot. If they're not preventing bound and rebound properly, your ride is going to be bumpy. Another thing to consi...

If memory serves, that bolt's in there with 20 ft/lbs of torque. Doubt you'd get it out with a screwdriver.

Aside from removing the head and taking it to a machine shop, I think you're screwed.

I hope you have a torque wrench as you've assembled an entire engine. Especially important on the smaller bolts on this engine since they're prone to breaking. If you break a cam bolt off in the head, you'll kick yourself in the head for not using a torque wrench.

Tunes67 wrote: they will probably charge you $40-$60 to get the old one out.

Tunes67

Sonds like alot more work than it's worth since most wxhaust shops will just weld in a new O2 bung for $20 with no labor taking off the manifold.