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shameem wrote:they just tried to charge me 90+ bucks for a beat up millenia alternator that was half submerged in mud....

Considering you can have your alternator completely rebuilt and sandblasted by an alternator rebuild shop in a day for $75, I'd tell him to go sodomize himself in the a--.

Tunes67 wrote:Just get a new one from mazda.. I think they run about $80.

Since when? I've never heard of a Ford or Mazda tensioner costing less than $155 dollars.

I get about 22MPG in both Seattle and Chicago with ZE, which are both at approximately sea level. The only time I've ever gotten significantly more milage is when driving through Colorado at 6,000 feet elevation. Less oxygen = less fuel pumped in as long as you're not WOT.

I need a full set of trunk trim panels (black) , a passenger rear side trim panel (black), and a 4 cyl hatch to swap out with my V6 hatch. If you've still got those, PM me and I'll get back to you ASAP.

You'll need to have the other heads resurfaced anyways to get a new mating surface. You'll also need a 12 point 12mm socket and a torque wrench for the head repalcement. The rest of the tools should be standard type tools. You'll need to swap over the EGR to the new heads.

My car was doing this a month ago too. Also thought it was the disty, so I swapped it out. It still did it for a week. Now it's not doing it. Can't figure it out, but my car was starting right back up so I guess it's not that huge a deal. And your remote start has nothing to do with it. It should on...

Revving to 8K just sounds cool, though. With my K8 ECU, I keep making power out to 7500 RPM because of the timing map differences.

You check motor oil cold, and automatic transmission fluid hot. Manual tranny fluid you can check either way.

Are we talking about the A-Arm bushings? And which brand ones are you installing?

And I thought you lived in Dakota, not Vegas?

My friend thinks i should ditch the inlet and use bike throttle bodies (GSXR 600) i think we will play with that maybe.... If you want to use Individual Throttle Bodies, look at Miata.net. A racer with a Miata swapped in a KL and then did ITB setup because the stock manifold would have been facing ...

I doubt many of those will come back. Doubtful BOTH oxygen sensors are bad at once. Then the IAT is inside the VAF, so it's possible the plug isn't plugged all the way in. But it's more probably that your computer was glitchy and just stored thosecodes long tern. You can check if the VRIS is working...

Qrusher wrote: my neighbor blew my crossover so we have them just wired in parallel. l

For the fronts there are plenty of options. Considering our cars are nose heavy with 65% over the nose, the fronts are THE MOST important by far, which is probably why there aren't alot of options for the back. For the back, a mid-level pad like PBR Metalmaster is adequate. The best you can get that...

225 are the widest to comfortably fit in your wheel wells, but since you're on aftermarket rims, it depends on your wheel offset. 215/40/17 are closer to stock wheel circumference than 205/40/17 anyways.

Use a grinder to grind a flat spot on two opposite sides until an open box wrench can get in on the head snug.