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I'm selling an Erebuni MazdaSpeed wing clone, and an OEM RS hatch garnish to go with it (if you don't have the garnish, you have to buy a crappy fiberglass one from FXDesigns or somewhere that doesn't match the wing, and sand/glue it onto your hatch under the wing) The wing and the hatch are both bl...

Damn. That's a little annoying. What's funny is I actually took my new (longer) clutch release rod out and ground it down just a bit more than I made it originally (not maybe 1/8" longer than stock) - now that i've done that it seems that the petal is distributing the force farther than before ...

Basically my question is this: If there is no free-play at the end of the clutch pedal (very light spring - basically loose space when the clutch pedal is almost all the way let out) does this mean that the clutch release arm is constantly the pressure place, keeping the throughout bearing constantl...

I should have mentioned - like most ZE-ers I don't usually have my EGR equeip on - so the solenoid isn't even on my car now. No wonder the K801 was spitting code 25. The FPR is connected directly to the intake manifold. I don't know that I was thinking earlier - the car sounds like s--- compared to ...

I replaced my clutch a few days ago, but now that the car is back together it's idling weird. It has a rough pulsation to it at idle, and gets worse at 1,100-1,400. I've checked and double checked and a number of other things, until i plugged my old K8 ECU in for the flashing codes. Besides reading ...

neutral wrote:Great pic and fine looking sleek ride. Congrats.

Thanks But we've all got sleek rides here

Check it out: "Morgan's MX-3"

http://corksport.com/main.php3?primNavI ... %2F1899319

^^

I torqued them per the fidinza instructions because it comes with its own bolts to screw into the aluminum. All I had at the time was a crappy torque wrench, and it seems like I might have fiddled with it a little too much (one of the ones with the needles) and now that you mention it, the bolts did...

It doesn't look like there's any friction material left on that clutch. If that's the case, you may have gotten down to part of the clutch you're not supposed to, and it scrathed your flywheel? Yeah.. but I don't think so. There isn't much clutch disk left, but I don't think that's what happened. M...

babyblueMX3 wrote:

Custommx3 wrote:Question, how are you controlling your VRIS?

probably tied or removed

It says tied on the first page

Yesterday I pulled my tranny off I was shocked to see deep gouges in both my fidanza friction surface and my clutchmasters stage 2 clutch. http://www.mkd.cc/_etc/fidanza_gouged.jpg 80k http://www.mkd.cc/_etc/cmii_gouged.jpg 68k What the hell? I've been using the fidanza for about 10 months and the c...

I replaced my strut mounts x4 plus the front thrust bearings and strutboots 'n stops when installing H&R w/Tokico's. I must be missing something.. I thought our cars didn't use thrust bearings. I've never seen them, and in fact I was advised to replace them once because of the pinging noise the...

I mentioned it on the first page but I will again, I had the same problem with the tach cutting out at 5k until I soldered my tach resistor in - but I'm guessing you soldered everything anyways.

Any Idea where I can get a good price on these? RR-Racing says "Clutchmasters does not recommend [replacing just the disk], so I don`t keep the disks in stock to sell separately" Clutchmasters themselves say $255 for just the disk but I know somewhere I've heard $125... So I hope, anyways....

I agree with mxmaz. You should just buy and install a japanese KL-ZE or an american KL-DE engine. They're 2.5L instead of 1.8, and if you buy from a respectable engine reseller, it should be cheaper and easier than having a shop do a rebuild. You'll want to research the swap here on the board before...