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My OBX headers on the DE have acquired a hole where it looks like a bung was intended to be. The front bank header is fine so im not looking to drop several hundred on a new set if i can just get a used aftermarket unit for cheap. I'm thinking maybe someone has had a similar problem and needed the f...

I made an order prolly 6 weeks ago(can't remember if it was Nov or late Oct.) for their full upper plenum kit for KLDE and my payment was processed, then 3 days later I get an email from paypal with a refund. They said something about not having the supplies to make my order atm. I was hoping to hit...

how many miles on the trans itself? what car did it come out of? condition of the fluid when drained?

Been getting more serious about tracking my MX-3 and i autocrossed as much as I could this past season, probably 6 SCCA sponsored events and another 4 low key "test and tune" sessions at Pittsburgh International Race Complex; old Beaver Run. I was also able to get a good number of pictures...

Sorry if I'm confusing things. Left side of engine is closest to the bumper. Front of engine is timing belt and accessory belts. The FPR needs vacuum to regulate appropriate fuel pressure. The prc valve sits between the vacuum source and the fpr. Usually the prc valve is doing nothing. Vacuum is fl...

Are you running the engine with no vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator (fpr)? The PRC valve only interrupts vacuum for hot restarts. But if no vacuum is applied to the fpr then you'll have higher fuel pressure at the fuel rail during idle and probably running rich at idle when emissions a...

Well i got a new PRC solenoid valve and it still just stalls when installed and still runs fine with the electronics plugged into it but without the vacuum lines attached.

My CO% and HC PPM at idle has failed my states emissions test twice now(both hot and cold) and both times the 2 places have said its due to open vacuum lines most likely. The problem is, two of the lines run to the back of the motor which is near inaccessible but the largest issue is the line coming...

Well i never did do this entire swap. Too much s--- such as the exhaust bolts and motor mount wanting to strip out and even after trying to get it out sideways instead of dropping the subframe, did we run into more breakable problems. W/e my issue was, the bearings and tie rods i did plus alignment ...

I got my first serious offer of $900 from a diesel mechanic living in my state today. If i accept that offer, then i will be parting certain things on the car out and will now take any dibs on the wing, lip, mudflaps, or anything else easily removable that won't inhibit the cars ability to drive too...

Well you can add mine to the Craigslist thread, as i just posted it in the Pittsburgh area one for substantially more money than on here.

Welp, i've got all the parts lined up for the swap(manual rack, outer tie rods, wheel bearings and seals, camber wedges, belt). I had to get the rack bushings through Mazda; they weren't too expensive but they were 1 of only 3 sets left in the US! So get those while you can people. The rack i reciev...

Jeff im on the West side of Pittsburgh near the airport. I couldn't tell you about the alternator amps, but i doubt thatd be something i'd part out so it could still run.

Thanks for the condolences, im hoping she can find a better home than a JY or smashed into a cube...

meh, i had time to compress and load these couple to get an idea of the body damage http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii576/rwebb24/Accident/Copyof0204011506.jpg http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii576/rwebb24/Accident/0204011507c.jpg http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii576/rwebb24/Accident/02...