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I think I figured it out.

I disconnected the crank sensor (the one on the pulley side), and it runs fine out of diag mode... I can't find my multimeter to test it, but at least i can drive it for a couple of days like this.

Yes it should run worse as the ECU will adjust things to be within parameters such as your timing. Move your disty around and you'll find the ECU keeps it at approx 10deg Worse in Diag mode or worse when not in diag mode? I'm just thinking i'm going to wind up needing a distributor. I can pull the ...

Ok, wait... I'm confused here. Wouldn't the car run WORSE in diag mode if say, my timing was off? From what i've read the computer runs on set values in diag mode, while not relying on the crank/cam sensors as a reference. If say, my timing belt had jumped a tooth, or my disty was way off, I'd think...

Mad Cow wrote:Unplug the battery and hold the brake pedal down for a few seconds, you might hear a relay click. That resets the ECU, could be causing your problem. I reset mine after I change any sensors or do anything with the electronics really.

That didn't help...

It will start with the VAF unplugged, but it will only idle, I cannot give it any throttle.

When it's in diagnostic mode, it runs fine, but with no timing advance. When i disconnect the jumper, the timing goes all over the place, and starts running super rich.

I'm stumped.

Ok, So I hooked the original igniter back up and the car runs exactly the same. I put the car in diagnostic mode to see if any codes could lead me in the right direction, and All I got was a VAF code (my fault , i had it unplugged when I started it previously). I forgot to take the car out of diagno...

Hey guys, Another n00b HEI question. My 93 started intermittently cutting out and not starting, and then one day completely lost spark. I went ahead and did the HEI swap as listed. The Car runs now . Kind of. It runs SUPER rich, the exhaust pops like firecrackers, it surges, and won't idle by itself...