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Yeah that sounds like your valve cover gaskets. When you replace them, use RTV silicone around where the cover contacts the head, around the screw holes and spark plugs, and rub it in with your finger before putting your cover back on. Let it seal 24 hours before driving.

If you have an abnormal bit of oil in your intake or air assembly then yeah most likely just worn piston rings. If you have any doubt about your valve cover gaskets, I would just replace them. If you have oil outside of the motor then yeah gaskets. If you can smell burning at all, it could be leakin...

The hydraulic lines are an enclosed, unified system. A leak anywhere can cause something else along the line to fail. So, if your boot is moving on the slave, it can mean that that the slave and/or master cyl are fine if you know what I mean. It depends on how much it is moving. If there is a leak i...

Yeah the other one is hard to see its right behind the clutch pedal. Using and extension on a ratcheting socket wrench should make it painless. Good luck. If you have any trouble with removing the clutch lines and you end up rounding them, you can use a vice grip to remove and reapply them. I know w...

Rather than just going by what he said, do you have your check engine light on at any time? If so, I would check them. If it is your EGR valve in any way, you should have a code for it.

I was going to get started tomorrow, but turns out I need a water pump and I need new seals and I'm a little short on money for the week so I'm afraid I'm going to have to push the swap back one more week. Trust me I'm as excited as you guys to see how this goes down. I'll post up details and maybe ...

Damn! That's shitty.

I was going to say that yeah make sure you seal that top part of the TB off. It's best to use RTV and let it dry.

Oh well sorry to hear.

Look under your hood directly at the front of the tranny (right in the front sitting inches from the radiator). If you look down there should be a little boot which is connected to your clutch slave cylinder. Pull it off from left to right and see if there is any grime/fluid in there. If there is, t...

I see what you mean with the butterfly valve. It makes a lot of sense now. I put the spacer back in but I did a crap job with the gasket (had to make my own). I'm going to do my smog test this week, then when I have time I'll remove it again and reapply it correctly. I also need to make sure my TPS ...

First check to see if your throttle cable is stuck on anything. Then I would say to remove your TB and remove the IAC underneath it and see if there is any junk in it from the cooling system that needs to be cleaned out. In fact, clean your TB too. Is it still doing this if you're driving when the c...

Mine does it as well. Maybe I should clean my IAC up some more but I know it's pretty clean from the last time I had to take it off. Maybe I have a vac leak somewhere but it makes sense that it would climb in RPMs by about 100 revs just for load purposes when in gear. Did cleaning your IAC completel...

Did you check your fluid levels? Check for fluid leak behind the clutch pedal? Does your clutch pedal feel really, really light as if it's not grabbing anything at all?

Ok I solved the problem..

I forgot to reset the throttle cable for the spacer...

It was pulling on the TB

oops

Thanks!

Is there a specific way to purge the cooling system of air? I just burped the hoses. I started the engine, and it idled high at around 2k rpms, then once it started to warm up, it dropped and began bouncing rpms again.

Heres the back story: I switched out my TB with a stock diameter MX6 TB a while back and had a similar idle bouncing issue and had it solved by removing the IAC valve on the MX6 TB and replacing it with the stock MX3 IAC valve. However, I removed the spacer between the TB and IM and realized I made ...