MX-3.com

Ryan wrote:I think its kinda redundant anyway. When you get near the bottom line, you're running out of fuel....

Well in my case my fuel level sender was broken for a while and I had to rely on the light to tell me my fuel level, it's pretty useful as a failsafe measure.

Most likely a relay, look in the manual and see where the high beam relays are and get someone to turn them on while you listen.

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:MX6 and 626 have different gearing IIRC, more highway friendly but that's about it.

And when compared to a '93 or earlier mx3 (IIRC), the mx6 also has a synchronized reverse gear.

How do you check the swaybar end links?

They had other vehicles running in a closed shop. I questioned if the air quality in the shop could effect the test and the mech. said no. Sh*t in sh*t out I say. Anyway I heard you can't pass Clean Air with a KL31 ECU or at least it really hard, comments? I passed mine with a KL31 chip in my K8 EC...

Checked for that too, the springs are fine.

They had other vehicles running in a closed shop. I questioned if the air quality in the shop could effect the test and the mech. said no. Sh*t in sh*t out I say. Anyway I heard you can't pass Clean Air with a KL31 ECU or at least it really hard, comments? I passed mine with a KL31 chip in my K8 EC...

Wow, I'm so luck that didn't happen to me. My rear bearing didn't fall apart, but they sounded like they were filled with sand when I spun just the hub.

_-Night-Shade-_ wrote:

Mad Cow wrote:Hey, my car does the exact same thing but only on the driver's side front wheel. Could it be a bad balljoint?

Jack up the car and to to move the wheel up and down, if movement = yes. If movement side-to-side = tie rod.

It actually doesn't move at all, which is confusing.

Hey, my car does the exact same thing but only on the driver's side front wheel. Could it be a bad balljoint?

JWMX3 wrote:Holy crap... I didnt think that was possible... the limits for hot rod are huge compared to normal.
Ive passed them with no cat at all...

I passed by a large margin with no O2 sensors or EGR, something is definitely wrong in your case.

My rear ones look completely different, so that's not really any help.

All I saw in the manual was a little zigzag line between the pads symbolizing the clip. Maybe I was just looking in the wrong spot but I was really tired when I was doing this. I know where they go, I just don't know how to orient them.

How do you properly install those little springy clips that hold the rear pads apart? One side of my car had them and the other side didn't so I'm guessing they're not incredibly important. But I want them there to feel safe.

I need a bunch of brake hardware and the ebrake cables so far. But it does suck having your car fall apart on you, mine's going through a rough time now too. Needs new rear hubs and the front suspension is making a ton of scary noises (clunks, rattles, scraping sounds and a sound that sounds like a ...