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Another fix to the wiggly socket issue http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=69450

I found a good source for weatherproof automotive connectors in all kinds of sizes, I'm plannin on replacing my stock connectors with these.

I finally found a good source for some cable to cable connectors, I'm gettin a shitload of 'em. Some to replace the stock headlight sockets I just cut out and a few spares for this, that, and the next project. Anyone else found a good source for connectors like these? http://www.route66supply.com/st...

Nd4SpdSe wrote:...but that also means your tail lights are on too.

Which is also good for visibility.

Just always turn your lows on when you drive. It's habit for me, if you always rock your lows then DRLs don't matter.

And with these puppys there's no reason not to always run you lows, cause they look so much sweeter.

The only issure I had was with poor connections with the blue socket to factory adapter. I just cut the sockets out and soldered the wires together, as far as the issues you're having, they seem pretty strange. I'd definately see if there's a loose connection in your sockets.

damn, you just reminded me I was planning on doing that mod way back when I first got my ride. I'm gonna hafta hook it up now that I've seen how sweet it looks. =============================== EDIT =============================== Sheet mang, the deed is done. Check the pics. http://farm4.static.flic...

And there's a peg in the bottom end of the housing that needs to fit through a hole in the frame, if that's not in along with the bottom bolt the lights would sit high.

Oh, I forgot to mention. I checked my Mom's Mazda6 on the weekend, it has HID lows and separate halogen highs. The lows stay on when you hit the high beams, so I'd say hooking up our projectors the same way should be all kinds of road-legal.

Well s---, I soldered absolutely everything else. I guess those connectors will be gone when I get some new ballasts.

I've got a few possible leads on some timer relays, similar to the standard 30amp bosch-style but with a delay, I haven't made the calls yet to see for sure.

I had a similar problem with my pass. side connector being kinda loose, I just rammed it in real hard and that seemed to take care of the problem... until today, I swapped out the H1 Highs for silverstars while the lows were on, the connector wiggled a bit and the lows when on, off, on, off... and s...

That sounds way too easy. I need a challenge.

I've tried a lot of o2 sensors, at least three brands since I installed my a/f ratio guage. I don't remember the brand of the last ones, but I remember thinking that I've never seen a readout as "crisp" as what I've got now on my guage. Anywho, about the VAF, I'm not really sure, I've read...

Title says it all. I pull the code religiously when the engine isn't up to temp. My o2 sensors are quality and less than a year old. my air/fuel guage reads normally after warm-up, but during it reads dead rich.

Anyone know what it'd take to rig up an auto dimming system like in most newer vehicles? Like when you turn the ignition off the lights come on, and turn off after a set time period. I'm thinking I wanna tackle it for my next electrical project in the car, but I'm not quite sure where to start with ...