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Thanks for the reply. I actually went to the junkyard today and tested 3 of them on some 2.5 V6's. they all read open. They must me some sort of capacitor type device. unless all those happen to be bad also.

QUESTION:

Has anyone ever replaced the sensor, due to the knock sensor code (05) on the ...

ok, guys. not too sure how these knock sensors work, but I am getting a check engine code 05. I tried doing a continuity check on my knock sensor at the connector and it read open. Is that OK, or is there supposed to be some resistance value (ohms)?

has anyone ever checked those. I need to make ...

problem solved thanks to andy!!

looks like the previous bumb-ass mechanic installed the wrong, brand-new VAF. since it was brand new and met spec, I kept overlooking it, until I came full circle back to it a few posts ago. luckily when I was looking for one, someone on ebay listed it as a JE50 ...

more stuff eliminated:

- timing belt positioning is OK
- ground at engine is OK (less than .1 V)


A little more descrition of the symptoms:

There seems to be dead spots along the throttle sweep. so if you slowly push the pedal from about 1/4 to 3/4 slowly, there is no response. If I rapidly ...

ground check. OK, good one, I'll try it tonight. It occurred to me last night, but I quickly dismissed it due to the other symptoms. but at this point, it's worth trying. I'll post what happens. thanks.

andy,

I love you... like a brother that is... well, maybe a little more if you get me over this hump bro.

call me at 305-527-7223. I am in west palm, okeechobee rd and SR7. or email me with your number at sruiz@sikorsky.com

really appreciate your time dude.



about the redline:

Yes the the car ...

also,

I have a KL02 VAF, it came with the car. can anyone confirm that this is the corect flow meter?

checked a couple more things:

- timing advance is OK
- timing belt is not stretched (but have not confirmed that it has not slipped position)

again, moving the VAF towards the "more air ...

well, i got sent on the road a few times, so I have been pulled away from this project a lot, but now I have some time to get back on it. so...

this thing is kicking my a-- now!!

- fuel pressure checks OK
- ignition timing is at spec (11 deg)
- swapped the distributor with a JY one, no change ...

thanks for the heads up on my meter.

went in at the ECU and referenced to ground. voltage swepped up linearly from about .5V to about 4.5V, just like you said. so i am starting to steer away from the flow meter.

I disconnected to temp sender and the car ran much beter almost perfect, it seams ...

hmmm, you can run without it, but not well. The IAC controls the idle as environment varies (pressure, outside temp, engine temp, A/C on, etc.). If you dump the IAC, you will not be able to achieve a good idle. try to source a good used part somewhere.

hmm, interesting. I think I will try the voltage test like you said max. go in at the ECU pins and move the cone by hand. Linear seemed like the obvious answer, so you would think that the resistance and the VAF would be linear also, but check this out. I went to the junkyard and ohm tested 2 ...

well, there is definitely a spec. The VAF I have even has a calibration sticker on it. so it was calibrated to some spec. apparently it is rebuilt. But, as you know, the spec is not published in the repair manual.

That's why I need someone to check one out for me, if they haven't already, and let ...

troubleshooting some rough running problems. I have checked all the obvious leak and crack issues. The VAF checks out OK by the manual's resistance checks, but I am still suspicious of it.

when I measure the resistance between the E2 and Vs terminals on the VAF's 5-pin connector, I can move the ...

sounds like a stuck idle air control valave.