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Nice idea about the lugs DingoBaby (shortened for time) Have a shop press the bearing in and out, most alignment shops have a press. If you use a slide hammer and score the seat you'll ruin the new bearing really quickly. Not a hard process really, just time consuming. As for the hub nut, get a air ...

I see that some of you have used some polyurethane filler for your motor mounts from McMaster. I'd like some more information on what you bought since I can't seem to find a real good description on their website as to what the products are and what they could be used for. I plan on trying to make s...

OMG!!! Geez we had a meet once with 6-7 MXs and I thought that was cool. I'd crap myself to drive with so many other MX-3s. Awesome rides too.

Dang, I wonder how hard it is to get a Canadian car regestered in the states? Hmm, I've got a beautiful MX, but that grey is bad!!

PMed you about some stuff.
Did you sell fenders yet? I need all four if your willing to cut the rear ones off for me.

hehe, yeah just about anyhting attached to the hub.

At either ends of the crank shaft, hehe. on the outside look for a round brown seal behind the crank pulley (Front) and under the flywheel (rear)Just around the crank, you'll see just the end of it on both sides.

If you don't like the Ghetto rig (electrical tape )you could also just move the latch down just a hair to make it close tighter, it adjusts just like the hood latch.

Make sure that you know how to bleed the system properly before you try it. Ask someone who knows to help you do it and have them explain what and why they are doing. A VERY basic description two man job, (guy #1)for the pedals, (guy #2)for the fluid vavle on the caliper Get a hose to go from the bl...

No.. wrong answer, if you want a stiffer motor then you need the MS mounts. The SRD ones will help, but minimal difference at best. They go under the front clip that is not where the motor places stress. The front and rear mounts take 90% of the abuse. Get those only if you are in a serious pinch.

Uh... you better change the front and rear main seals while you have the opportunity. Can't believe that none of you suggested that by now. Geesh! Other than that you sound pretty good to go. If you end up changing the water necks, or pulling it to drill and tap, then you need to replace the O rings...

They are about 60 bucks for the lifetime warranty ones from AutoZone here in the states. They are super simple to replace if you can get the Fing axle nut off

Mine blew alittle white smoke for a few days too. The seals get loose if the engine sits for a long period of time. Alittle heat from the motor should warp things back into place. You sould first check for any coolant on the plugs, if you have some then you might need a new head gasket if it doesn't...

I've had ceramic pads for about 3 months now and love them. They were installed with KVR slotted rotors so I'm not sure exaclty how much difference they themselves made, but a great differnece over stock with SS brake lines.

Not really there may be some minor differences, but should be basically the same. We (MOCA) are doing one for the President ,Atlanta MX-3, Labor Day weekend, so if you have any more questions just ask on our forum. Or after labor day we should know exaclty, but I don't anticipate any problems at all.