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Looking to purchase the Idle Set Screw and the Spring that keeps the throttle cable at a predetermined position on a KL Motor. This is the small screw, approximately M6 or M5 by 1.00 or 1.25. It is the screw which is parallel to the firewall, not the large screw which is perpendicular.

Kind of a hard piece to find that no one has a spare of. Can't seem to find it on any OEM part distributors, unless this is a complete fabbed up piece by PO.

I cab pick up a screw for you at ace hardware Wednesday

SuperK wrote:I cab pick up a screw for you at ace hardware Wednesday

More so I would like the OEM. And mainly the spring itself. Hard finding one that's going to be that size. I've checked the local hardware store along with Menards. There is only one MX in the scrap yard up here, but I can't get there due to work schedule.

I would much rather not keep the screw mounted the way the PO did with washers as it won't be a perfect set idle let alone the cable has gotten hung up on the washers themselves causing WOT. Anyway, I'd rather get this thing in good functioning order than cut corners.

Take a pic of what you are after? I think I can help

Although the washers did pretty well, idle was too high. So, removed the larger washer which the throttle was getting stuck on, removed two more washers and used a key as an emergency spacer while I was out test driving it for another problem.



I did attempt at removing the washers and setting it, but after testing my theory, which I was unfortunately correct, the screw tightened itself rather than backing off causing the idle to go from 750/1,000 RPM to 2,000. There goes that trial and error.

That's a little mess there. Why all the washers?
I think you're talking about the idle stop screw. OEM does not involve any springs - or if it did you don't need them. It is just a screw or a bolt (M5 or M6) and a matching nut to lock it down. The screw threads into the throttle body arm with the nut in the same place as your key and washers behind the arm. Adjusted correctly the screw only stops the throttle plate at the point it is completely closed. You then hold the screw or bolt while you tighten the nut against the throttle arm to jam it in position.

Most throttle bodies the throttle plate will simply close and go no further so the screw is kinda redundant. The screw provides reference for setting the TPS and keeps the throttle plate from getting jammed in the closed position. In any case it should never hold the throttle plate open.

Huh. Used to springs being on most of them. No big deal. Didn't take a look at the B6's stop screw. I'll give that a shot and see how it does. Given the length of the screw, I had figured that there would have been a spring around it, much like my Talon's.

The washers are spacing it back so it doesn't keep the throttle at WOT. I replaced the screw with a standard bolt and used less washers. I was quite unaware that the the bolt/screw only used a nut to keep it locked down. I might have to search for a spring as well at the same diameter for a little easier dialing in. From my experience, it's a pain in the a-- trying to lock a nut down while turning the bolt. Spring is much easier. Turn and done.

And yes, the whole engine bay is a mess. Slip-shod job of a swap. And like the build thread (and the random dying thread) the wiring is awful.

well the problem isn't exactly that the idle stop screw is missing. it looks like they changed the actual throttle cable actuator arm from the KL arm to the K8 to clear the brake booster.
But since they did that, it affects the distance of the idle stop screw to the linkage arm. because of that, you'll need to do a custom idle stop screw setup because the stock stop screw will be too short.
You will want to get a long enough screw to adjust it (the length you have for example) then some slim nuts to put on both ends of the throttle body so you can set the distance without crazy washers interfering.