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edit: I've renamed this thread to what I think is a little more appropriate. Since I've received my engine now and i am trying to figure out what to do with it before i put it in.

I've done some research on how much room there is to put in the straight neck and the curved neck and found out that the only annoying thing is the brake booster is in the way of the straight neck intake. I've got a straight neck KL on the way and was wondering if anyone could guide me in my next few purchases to get the correct parts so it's just a two day swap out and I don't have to worry too much on waiting for other important parts to come in. I've been waiting a long while for this moment, I don't want to be forgetting anything.

I was running a Honda Brake Booster for years with a straight neck. Fairly easy swap out... once the engine is out of the car.

You can find lots of info by simply using the Search function or Google.
Example; search.php?keywords=straight+neck+brake ... mit=Search
I found this by typing in 'straight neck brake booster' in the V6 section of the Search function.

This may help ya!! http://mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=69035

I was running a straight neck as I'm right hand drive and had none of the issues. It is annoying unless you have battery relocation though as the intake piping needs a steep custom made bend to avoid the battery.

I opted for the curve neck manifold.

Thank for the info guys! So if I'm understanding my research correctly, the klze will function ok with k8 ecu and k8 vaf but to get it running to 'full' potential it is the kl31/36 ecu and the k8 vaf works with that? Unless i get a klde ecu and run a kl02 vaf? And how can you tell the difference in ecu's? I'm so close to having all my parts! I just really don't want to me missing anything.

icajewler wrote:Thank for the info guys! So if I'm understanding my research correctly, the klze will function ok with k8 ecu and k8 vaf but to get it running to 'full' potential it is the kl31/36 ecu and the k8 vaf works with that? Unless i get a klde ecu and run a kl02 vaf? And how can you tell the difference in ecu's? I'm so close to having all my parts! I just really don't want to me missing anything.

KL31/KL36 ecu will have the correct timing and fuel maps and vris points for the straight neck ZE and
your K8 (JE50) VAF is correct as long as you are OBD1.

icajewler wrote:Thank for the info guys! So if I'm understanding my research correctly, the klze will function ok with k8 ecu and k8 vaf but to get it running to 'full' potential it is the kl31/36 ecu and the k8 vaf works with that? Unless i get a klde ecu and run a kl02 vaf? And how can you tell the difference in ecu's? I'm so close to having all my parts! I just really don't want to me missing anything.

The KL31/KL36 ECU will say KL31 or KL36 on it

KLDE ecu will say KL something on it. Is your car a 1993 or later? Whatever you do, try find the same year ECU when you swap as a 1994+ car will only have the 1 coolant sensor and a 1993 ECU will look for 2 sensors.

I've got the 93 SE. That's some great information! I am so exited to meet my friends on the track! (hopefully pass them)

I have a Probinator chipped ECU that I've been considering selling. If you get your engine in and are interested PM me. Suggest you search Probinator ECU first.

I'd suggest staying away from probinator. Not to bad mouth the product or anything but the simple fact is it's a KLDE map with ridiculous timing on the last line of the map (100% throttle). Timing goes to 36-37 fairly early on. It's been proven that 27-29 degrees makes best power for these engines. Anything higher you lose power or it gets dangerous.

icajewler wrote:I've done some research on how much room there is to put in the straight neck and the curved neck and found out that the only annoying thing is the brake booster is in the way of the straight neck intake. I've got a straight neck KL on the way and was wondering if anyone could guide me in my next few purchases to get the correct parts so it's just a two day swap out and I don't have to worry too much on waiting for other important parts to come in. I've been waiting a long while for this moment, I don't want to be forgetting anything.

Consider the straight neck bottom/heads + KLG4 manifold. Looks a lot cleaner too. It will (just) clear the brake assembly.

Reinforce your motormounts while its out, also change the clutch and maybe flywheel. Things are easy accessible now. Also check your P/S assembly (very cheap to rebuild), also an annoying thing to get to later.

I got my engine today! It looks great from what I can tell. Everything is clean and there aren't any dents (hardly any scratches) But I am having trouble identifying parts... I know I've got the Millenia IM (trouble posting pics, will do as soon as I figure out what's wrong with my phone) and there are kl31-101 stamps the cam's are stamped with kl01 and I am trying to find the time to sneak a peak at the pistons (does anyone have an easy method?) Anyone what to tell me what other identifying-like things I need to know that would help?

Here is my IM

What does the Throttlebody say?

KL-47 or KL-68?