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YAAAA MONDAY..new codes! Hooray! They don't seem to be working at all, car is sluggish after 5k.....Any spot in particular I should start? I am ignorant when it comes to the VRIS's. I understand how they work, but not how to test/fix them. Any help would be appreciated.

The codes are related to the operation of the solenoid (not the actual vacuum actuated valve). At the top of the solenoid are 2 vacuum line connectors. Vacuum enters the top connector and when the solenoid is energized the vacuum is open to the side connector where it will then be used to pull the VRIS valve open.

Check the connector to the VRIS solenoids (VRIS 1 is closest to the right - passenger side). Look for wire breaks. Disconnect the solenoid from electrical power and check the solenoid. Initially if you blow air from the top of the solenoid valve it will exit at the bottom (not out the side). If you have a 12VDC source you should be able to put power to the solenoid and hear it click. You can confirm it is energized by blowing air through the top vacuum line and it should pass through to the side vacuum connector of the valve.

Lot's of people do the paper test - they put a small piece of paper between the cam and intake where it connects to the actual butterfly valve inside the intake. Then they drive around and check to see if the paper is still stuck between the cam and the intake or if it blew away when the VRIS actuated the butterfly valve. The nice thing is this is an end to end test that proves the system is working.

davmac wrote:The codes are related to the operation of the solenoid (not the actual vacuum actuated valve). At the top of the solenoid are 2 vacuum line connectors. Vacuum enters the top connector and when the solenoid is energized the vacuum is open to the side connector where it will then be used to pull the VRIS valve open.

Check the connector to the VRIS solenoids (VRIS 1 is closest to the right - passenger side). Look for wire breaks. Disconnect the solenoid from electrical power and check the solenoid. Initially if you blow air from the top of the solenoid valve it will exit at the bottom (not out the side). If you have a 12VDC source you should be able to put power to the solenoid and hear it click. You can confirm it is energized by blowing air through the top vacuum line and it should pass through to the side vacuum connector of the valve.

Lot's of people do the paper test - they put a small piece of paper between the cam and intake where it connects to the actual butterfly valve inside the intake. Then they drive around and check to see if the paper is still stuck between the cam and the intake or if it blew away when the VRIS actuated the butterfly valve. The nice thing is this is an end to end test that proves the system is working.

Thanks Davmac! I got busy and didn't get a chance to mess with anymore. Ill check the operation of the solenoid in the morning and if all seems well, the paper test. Ill update when I know something.