MX-3.com

These images show that the bushings are pretty close in diameter to the stock setup, but will definitely need modification to work properly.

This is what I have sitting in front of my on my living room floor. Yeah, my roommate is thrilled about it too.

Has anybody active here actually done this swap personally? I would love to see pictures of the modifications and or install process that you followed. There IS a writeup, but without images the description isn't very straight forward.

Thank you!

Bump?

For $400 you can get tubular rear control arms complete with heim joints.. bolt in set up... Just sayin...

Do they even make them for mx-3. These cars are obsolete anymore, you can barely get wear item at parts stores (wires, spark plugs, fuel filter) not even talking about aftermarket parts.

crazycanadian wrote:For $400 you can get tubular rear control arms complete with heim joints.. bolt in set up... Just sayin...

if my car lasts a few more months i want to get a set from piercemotorsports

kulluminati777 wrote:

crazycanadian wrote:For $400 you can get tubular rear control arms complete with heim joints.. bolt in set up... Just sayin...

if my car lasts a few more months i want to get a set from piercemotorsports

They are well worth the money... You do need to make custom end links for the sway bar though... I made mine for $20 each... At the XXX rootbeer show I saw a guy selling some end links that were adjustable that would work mint.. all though he wanted $90 for a pair...

Here you go, post 112

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showth ... -log/page8

300zxrb26dett wrote:Here you go, post 112

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showth ... -log/page8

The entire rear subframe is custom that is fantastic!! Makes my entire rear upgrade sound like a joke

Thank you for the post!

I do still wonder though, what exactly did you do about the protruding bushing on the rear of each spindle?(between the spindle and the rear TTL arm).

Did you just leave the factory portion intact there, or did you modify extra energy bushings to fill the gap?

The guy who made the rear tubular TTL made steel spacers for those areas.

Or when you remove the old bushings, keep the inner steel sleeves to use as your spacers.

MrMazda92 wrote:Thank you for the post!

I do still wonder though, what exactly did you do about the protruding bushing on the rear of each spindle?(between the spindle and the rear TTL arm).

Did you just leave the factory portion intact there, or did you modify extra energy bushings to fill the gap?

I modified some bushing to work. I i had to do it over again I would have ordered one additional set of the volvo bushings just for this purpose. I roasted my bushings out so there was no factory left.

Just cut the difference off from the inside and you will be fine.

My car has full Polly bushings throughout. You can buy them for our cars, you do not have to modify them. There is an entire thread dedicated to polly bushings and what fits what on Club Pro.