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will the same cables that i was using for my amp and subwoofer be enough for a battery relocation to the trunk?

depends on what gauge the wire is, most people use 8 gauge for amps and stuff, i'd recommend 4 gauge or higher

ill look on the wire, my amp was professionally installed a year ago so i wouldnt know the gag right off the bat, i hope it says it on the wire....

What is the point of relocation?

4G is about 10mm in diameter...give or take. I used 4G 600 strand for my power and grounds. A bit overkill but I got a good deal.

mitmaks wrote:What is the point of relocation?

weight relocation to slightly offset the drivers weight and to have more room in the engine bay
it's not the most useful mod out there but it does tidy the engine bay up a bit, i personally won't bother

I moved mine mostly to make room for the intake, and the weight balance is a bonus.

yeah a few reason why i want to do this is the weight balance, clean up the engine bay a bit, and i think the battery would last alot longer if not always "baking" in the hot engine bay

Use as large of a gauge wire as you can. I would suggest 2awg. I went 0awg in the MX-3 (it wasn't a relocation, I had a 2nd battery in the trunk), but when it comes to electrical, overkill isn't a bad thing. My dual-battery in the truck is running 0awg, regardless if they're side by side.

The problem with relocation is the length of the wire; the longer the wire, the less current it can handle, or I should say, the more you lose. When people have a problem with starting their car after a relocation, that's usually the case. Also with the relocation remember too that the ground is also farther; your electrical circuit has lengthened about 10x, which makes it a lot pickier if it isn't done right. That wire is the electrical life blood of the car. Even if you decide to use 4awg for the reloation for whatever reason, I would suggest to, if anything, go 2awg for the ground. Remember too, have a good clean bare metal contact that's bolted down nice and secure.

1/0 for power to a distribution block in engine bay, 1/0 for ground to nice clean bare metal bolt. The ones that hold the rear bench in do nicely.

does any one have pics of there mounting locations? I want to put it up against the rear seat on the drivers side BUT i think the gas tank will interfer with that. Also was it hard to drill through the body for the mount bolts or somehow did you use some kind of existing holes that had a plug in it. I ask because i find my self doing this alot with the MX3 for some unknown reason

About 1/2 way down this page.
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 8&start=45
I just screwed down the battery box with several sheet metal screws and washers.

There was another relocation spot that I liked a lot better than the trunk, and that was behind the rear passenger trim card. You'd need a slimmer battery to make it work, which kind of sucks... The positive? It looks a LOT cleaner, and you don't sacrifice your already limited hatch/trunk space. In my case, that would be subwoofer and toolbag space.

For jump-start or disconnect purposes, you would naturally want to have a second set of terminals near the stock location, to save you time and hassle with trim removal.

yeah i liked the behind the trim thing as well. I just had got a optima red top for free and wanted to use it. Its a little bigger then the one we use so i put it in the trunk. When that battery is dead i will for sure be doing the behind the rear trim mod

I modified an OEM Mx-3 battery tray and mounted in the back, rear passenger corner or the trunk. I don't remember what tweaks I had to do, but I didn't have to drill much if anything at all to mount it, but I remember at least 1 bolt from the underside, I think it was an existing hole, but it's been too long. if I had an OEM tray and an Mx-3 trunk, it would probably take me 30 seconds to remember how I mounted it. It was mounted longitunally, that's all I remember.