HEI Module Issues - solved...

[Mooneggs]

So today I had to replace my radiator so I moved a bunch of things out of the way to make room. One of the things I moved was the HEI Module with wires. When I put everything back together and started the car it ran ok for 2 minutes as I was adding coolant back to the system, then it died. I tried to start it and it died again, then it wouldn't even start or it would start, go to 4k, then drop and die. This is the other module (Accel) that has been running PERFECT for the past couple of weeks (since 12/18).

So I swap in the old generic one and it runs but I have the same issues I was having before (see below). I go to autozone and buy an exact replacement for the one that had been running great (Accel 35361 module: http://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-35361-Ignit ... 695&sr=8-1). I install it at Autozone and it has the same exact issues as the other one! HOW CAN THIS BE, IT'S BRAND NEW?

So I swap back in the generic one and it runs but has issues... so what is going on here? Any ideas? I thought buying a brand new Accel one would fix this as I assumed the Accel one had died (It's old and I've had it for years).

Context of the entire situation is below from my worklog... Any input is appreciated.

I've been fighting a gremlin in my car for the past couple of months. Basically the car would stall randomly and sputter badly leaving me stranded in the middle of intersections, on the side of the road, at the parking lot at work, etc for a few moments/minutes (enough to freak me out). Then there were occasions where it wouldn't even start up.

It all started with a slightly bouncing tach that would happen intermittently (slightly higher than supposed to be) then the tach started doubling and doing all kinds of crazy stuff so I was thinking the resistor went bad in the HEI mod so I replaced it. Didn't fix it.
I tried replacing the MSD blaster coil - didn't fix it.
I tried rewiring the entire HEI mod - didn't fix it.
I tried replacing the HEI coil wire (7th nipple).
I tried replacing plugs/wires (needed new ones anyways) smoothed everything out but didn't fix it.
I tried replacing the cap/rotor - didn't fix it.

The good news is I didn't buy most of that but swapped known working parts from the Race Car. The bad news is I should have swapped the HEI module first! So apparently symptoms of a going bad HEI Module are: Not starting (cold), random stalling, tach bouncing. Quick fix is to unplug everything from the module, plugging everything back up and it seems to magically work again.

[Josh]

Is everything grounded well? I know its a stupid question but it could cause it to act like that. does your HEI module bolt to the chassis or an aluminum bracket?

I had this same issue in my RS before I swapped to external coil.

[Daninski]

Ok so your going to replace the module now?

[Mooneggs]

I think it's a grounding issue as well, it's literally the last thing that could be wrong! I'm using the stock bracket that the Radiator Fan wire clip goes to near the driver's headlight. One of the bolt holes is slightly stripped and I can't quite get it completely tight which would explain the inconsistency.

I don't think I will replace the module since I bought a brand new one.

Super busy with work this week and a friend let me borrow his car for the time being so I'm hoping I can get it resolved this weekend!

[WhiteFinish]

Perhaps your fuelpump or fuel relay?

[Daninski]

Ya moon loose wires can be an issue even if they appear to be fine. I had an ignition wire on the battery, looked good but just because it wasn't completely contacting (good and tight) the car wouldn't start. I checked every thing then accidentally wiggled it while the car was cranking and varoom, started.

[mazda915]

had that same prob wouldnt start then found out it was a huge vac leak on the intake tubbing fixed it and it started lol and it was the same thing when i was also moving my hei and i thought it was that to but idk that was weird for me

[Mooneggs]

Solution was totally unrelated (story of my life). I thought it was the module being moved and then having a bad ground.

Real problem was part of my HID Lighting system was still installed after removing the bulbs. After I removed all of the related wires it fired right up! I will say that one of the HEI modules actually was going bad (generic one) because of the bouncing tach issue so my first post is still a relevant solution with symptoms of a going bad HEI module.

So yeah mazda915 I can relate... good grief I'm such a n00b sometimes!!!

[WhiteFinish]

Good find Mark !

How did you come up with this ?

[Daninski]

Good find Mark !

How did you come up with this ?

Are you kidding, what Idiot leaves the HID Lighting system installed after removing the bulbs. Oh man I can't believe this. Mark what made you think of the lighting?

[Mooneggs]

Well I just went back through what I worked on before it stopped working. I removed the other HID bulb so I could ship them back as defective, and I changed out my radiator which included removing the A/C fan. The module worked before I did all that and so I went back to the HID system and realized that some it was now not grounded because when I removed the bulb I switched back to the stock harnesses!

What I learned through this was to finish one project at a time before moving to the next one!

[Josh]

so the telescoping HID bulbs are no good?

[Mooneggs]

one of the bulbs burnt out and the other one was flickering a bit... It's kind of hit or miss on ebay HID systems... I've had some that lasted for years and then these for 2 months

[Nd4SpdSe]

Wait a sec, you had HEI issues caused by your HIDs?

[Mooneggs]

Wait a sec, you had HEI issues caused by your HIDs?

Nope, I thought I had HEI issues but it turned out to be the car wouldn't start due to the partially installed HID system grounding out.

I had HEI issues initially and the old module IS bad. But this other issue was unrelated.