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Ive done a bit of searching and this could really go either way with cost but mybe one of you guys can know bettter then I..

So heres the deal my K8 is starting to smoke pretty bad at startup(valve seals) and during driving. It also gives me a hard time starting up which leads me to belive low compression but I cannot confirm this because I have not tested it.

Also one more thing befor a pose my question to the experts.. This is a project/DD car my goal isn't a show car at the end just a fun car to drive thats different. Also im not new to modding cars.

Anyways back on topic.. Ive looked at new(rebuild) motors (K8,KL-ZE/DE) and it seem im looking at around $600-$1100.. or use 40-60K on them from $300-$800.. then theres also the jukeyard but how do I really know the condition of the motor running or not.. and rebuild kits seem to be from $100-$600 depending on whats included..

I think it would be easyer to freashin up a KL-DE and call it a day but in all reality I need the most cost affective option.

thank for all your help -fez

K8 rebuild is kind of a waste of money when there are other better choices.

Daninski wrote:K8 rebuild is kind of a waste of money when there are other better choices.

I understand the qeneral consensis on here is you guys dont like the K8 that much lol..

its not that we dont like the k8, its that our cars are old and in most cases you can find a newer motor (K8,KLDE or even KLZE) with less miles, for less then it would cost to rebuild one.

... and rebuilding a K8 costs more than rebuilding a KL. For less output. Why? Only plausible reasons -> building a sweet 10k+ RPM motor, or milage. Even then, the costs in a rebuild would never be recouped in milage, ever.


Buy a set of KLZE pistons on PT. $80-150

But a set of Colt Cams $150-400

Buy Flatlander's KL rebuild kit ($500)

find a JY KLDE ($200-300)

A milli intake ($50-150)

Now you're pushing 180-200 WHP for $1500. not bad at all.

I gathered from the 1st post that he was referring to a KL as a rebuild candidate.

Personally, I think a Cam'd, 10k RPM, SC'd K8 would be pure sex, and not just on the dyno... Imagine the sound.
Meh, who'd ever put the effort in for it though? You are right on that one I guess. Still, a low displacement race category... you could obliterate the Honduh crowd with a built K8, and for less than their "professionally installed" setups cost.

We've never had people put true time and effort into the K8, and until or unless that happens, there's no reason to hate on it. Granted, it's not the cheapest option, it's still an option. Personally, I think a Cam'd 10k RPM K8 would make some interesting gains with minimal expense. You could even risk it on a stock(minus cams) engine, if you were planning to swap anyways. Hell, I might do just that... If it survives a few good pulls at 10k, I'll pay to dyno it just for you guys, and then rebuild the engine for my girlfriend's car. Quote me on this if you want, because I'll do it for shits n gigs.

It's common knowledge(and common sense to any long time member) that a KL swap is cheaper, and easier. Just remember, not everyone cares about that magical 200 hp ZE beast that so many chase after. It's not like it's a Unicorn that craps rainbows you guys... Some people want to keep their car stock, and they shouldn't have to defend their wishes. You all say it about fugly body kits, but "It's his car, let him do what he wants with it." never fit a topic better than the "Just ZE it" argument.

[/Rant]

Now, back on topic...

Thefez,

My personal recommendation is to do a ton of research, set your goals, and plan your swap carefully.

It seems to me like you're pretty flexible with which engine you end up with. I'm personally against the "just ZE it cuz it has 20-30 more HP than the DE" argument.

If you'd enjoy the car equally between 170 and 200 HP, then I recommend a late model KL(the KLG4 from the 98-2002 626), it's middle of the pack for power, although it will require an aftermarket EMS if you want to keep the Coilpack Ignition.
So far as I know, you'll see no problem running it with a distributor, however the disty is one of the more finicky components in the K series engines. You can rebuild the G4 later if you'd like, but honestly you should be able to find a sub 80,000 mile one fairly easily. Put as many miles on it as you wish, and if you feel it lacks something you can always build it up later.

Honest opinion, if you're going for more power than stock without breaking the bank, or going balls deep into a build like Ryan and myself are.

I have done my research not all but alot and it looks like ima freshin up a DE and mild n/a build on it and then have fun with it get some nice rims to stance on my gc's.

thanks for all your help guys

-fez

A fine choice, we're here if/when you need us! Ryan made a good suggestion with the Flatlander kit btw, I will endorse that as a good choice.

One thing, take GOOD Pictures of your vacuum, coolant, and electrical routing before you pull your engine. After that, double and triple check that you've photographed everything. I just spent a few days sorting out maybe 1/3 of what the engine uses in the bay, all because I got a little overzealous in my IM removal a few weeks ago.

Lables:) lol.. Ive swapped harnesses and motors befor so im well aware bout that but thanks for the tip man really apreciate all the help. One question i do have which i might have read befor but I honestly cant remeber still need to reread everything agien, but its a good idea to run a probinator chip even with a DE correct?

nah just grab a de ecu and airflow sensor...

Thefez wrote:Lables:) lol.. Ive swapped harnesses and motors befor so im well aware bout that but thanks for the tip man really apreciate all the help. One question i do have which i might have read befor but I honestly cant remeber still need to reread everything agien, but its a good idea to run a probinator chip even with a DE correct?

It depends on what you label things with I labeled everything and had issue with my labels coming off of their own volition!

That's why I suggested photos, my experience scarred me for life

You'll gain nothing from any chip without having modified the engine beyond spec. You'll be fine(as Mike said) with the DE Ecu and VAF(KL02?)

It depends on what you label things with I labeled everything and had issue with my labels coming off of their own volition!

Ohh Yeah all my post-it notes just fell right off too!! JK

I like my KLZE swap, but I kind of feel like I should have held out, saved up some more money and rebuilt a DE and then added forced induction. Turbos and Superchargers are the way to go here in the Colorado Mountains, NA engines dont perform near as well in the thinner air.

Silkwyrm wrote:

It depends on what you label things with I labeled everything and had issue with my labels coming off of their own volition!

Ohh Yeah all my post-it notes just fell right off too!! JK

I like my KLZE swap, but I kind of feel like I should have held out, saved up some more money and rebuilt a DE and then added forced induction. Turbos and Superchargers are the way to go here in the Colorado Mountains, NA engines dont perform near as well in the thinner air.

My plan exectly.. im sure the stock block with arp hardware will hold 8psi on a small IHI turbo from a AWD talon. I go next week to pick one up from a yard

Try this its what I did. Scour your local craigslist for a Mazda 626 with a bad transmission. You should be able to find one for under $500. Buy it, drive it home (slowly & carefully) pull the engine & vaf & whatever else you want. Sell the catalytic converter for cash to a metal yard & then sell the car for scrap you'll break even or come close to it. Then you have a new(er) klde for your Mx. Time consuming, but cost effective. A better option than a tedious rebuild imo.