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I'm a little confused about the layout of vacuum and coolant lines in my '93 GS, and have a couple of questions that I need to answer relatively quickly.

Firstly, where do people typically route the powersteering vac. line on the Millenia IM? Obviously it can't go where it did with the K8, so is there a general consensus?

Secondly, are there any particular vacuum lines which serve a very limited purpose, that can be completely removed without major consequence? I'm looking to clean up the bay while I work on this, since half the work is already done.

Lastly, I have a few things I would like clarification on:

Where does this little guy(Passenger side, behind strut tower in a GS) want to go?


This coolant line attaches to the rear cylinder head, beneath the throttle body. I believe it connects to the bottom end, but can't verify this.


I remember unhooking this somewhere, but can not for the life of me remember what it attached to, and it's beginning to frustrate me.



Lesson learned overall, plan ahead when you're messing with this crap... I believed my labeling to be adequate, but a few weeks of neglect can turn order into chaos quickly.

Anyways, thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

The top one will be the charcoal canister for the purge system. Its solenoid is the only one mounted on the firewall.

Second is hard to tell, but it goes from coolant neck -> TB -> rear head.

Last is the banjo bolt for the fuel rail. The hose coming from the filter DOES NOT go to the FPR. You have the old one still hooked up. Unbolt, and bolt in that one, or whatever suits your hosery needs.

There is a feed and return coolant line for the EGR. If you don't install the EGR (code) then you need to connect them together.

I agree completely with Ryan and will only add a little bit in case you need the clarification - plus maybe you're a visual learner.

Top goes from charcoal canister mounted near the passenger strut tower to the "middle" nipple on the purge control solenoid mounted on the firewall near the brake booster. The "end" nipple on the purge control solenoid is usually connected to a vacuum source on the intake manifold usually just behind the throttle body.



Sadly I've had plenty of experience connecting coolant hoses bewteen block, IAC and EGR. Coolant hose goes from the rear (right) cylinder head to the IAC, from the IAC to the top connector on the EGR and then from the EGR to the coolant manifold at the back of the engine (eventually the hard pipe to the thermostat and radiator hose). Diagram is for the K8 but all the K engines use the same routing.



As Ryan points out the hard line fitting and attached hose is fuel line. The banjo bolt is used (with copper washers on either side of the fitting in your pic) to connect to the fuel rail. Gas tank -> fuel filter -> fuel rail then FPR-> fuel tank (return). Fuel lines are in the diagram above, but probably hard to see.

Funny, I still think putting the engines besides each other and making sure the one going in looks like the one coming out works the best. I think every person who does the swap gets tricked up by the vac lines.
The only vac lines I know of that you can eliminate would be for the cruise control and for the FPR vac system when you install a ZE.

Thank you guys, It's nearly sorted out now. Vacuum wise, I'm almost golden. Coolant is still proving to be tough, especially with the lack of room around the EGR... I used an open end wrench to get it out and am almost tempted to just rip the thing out at this point. I'm DEFINITELY not keeping the EGR on my other KLs, it's very slight(in my eyes) worth is utterly dwarfed by the sheer inconvenience alone, let's not even get into dirty TB and IM issues.

Straightneck IMs don't accommodate EGR anyways, so I'm saved at least part of the trouble.

I still haven't seen anything about where people route their CC vac. line on the Milli manifold, the nipple the K8 uses isn't present on the Milli IM. It's currently linked up where the stock airbox line(small nipple, that's always neglected with CAIs) resides typically.

I'll be doing a hell of a tuck on my '92... I hate how messy this crap is, even bone stock is a little daunting if you don't have the diagrams.

davmac, thank you very much for the diagrams. They're a little better than some I've seen, if memory serves they weren't as complete... Maybe I'm wrong though, I should have checked. 2 Years, and still a noob. I am kicking myself for that one.

Ryan, the charcoal can. vac line was actually the other end, going beneath the TB, but you pushed me in the right direction. Thank you!

Dan, thanks for the heads up, I wish I could consolidate them all. I'm thinking my power steering pump/reservoir will occupy the space left by my wiper fluid reservoir. I want to clean this up, and the next time I pull an IM or VC, it'll be a hell of a lot simpler.

Thanks guys!

Quote, I'm thinking my power steering pump/reservoir will occupy the space left by my wiper fluid reservoir. unquote. Not sure how you plan on doing that, you'd need to route the hoses all the way to the other side of the engine. If it's that much of a concern go with the Protege steering rack swap. You need to extend your break vac hose to the other side/back of the IM right.

I think you're misunderstanding Dan it's Less than a foot from stock location, just tucked into an empty space ;D

Ya I'll just shut up.

Daninski wrote:Ya I'll just shut up.

I think I made the mistake here, my bad

Just a tip for next time when I did my swap it was the first time I tried to do anything like that. I was paranoid that I'd F it up, so I took a bazillion pictures of the engine bay from different angles and distances, The pictures proved very helpfull when my labeling turned out to be inadequate.

Silkwyrm wrote:Just a tip for next time when I did my swap it was the first time I tried to do anything like that. I was paranoid that I'd F it up, so I took a bazillion pictures of the engine bay from different angles and distances, The pictures proved very helpfull when my labeling turned out to be inadequate.

I'll be doing exactly this when I do my '92 swap, in this instance I was just pulling an IM to fix a leak It just turned out way more complex than I had wanted.

MrMazda92 wrote:

Daninski wrote:Ya I'll just shut up.

I think I made the mistake here, my bad

I don't mind taking the hit.

Pictures are a good idea, I posted a pile of pics about 2 years ago to show the vac routing and what not. Should come up in the Search.

Ok I used the Search and it was like the fifth post down, vac pics. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng#p482885

Haha wow, thanks for that! I would've searched if I didn't have specific questions!

That actually helps a bunch, since it shows side angles of things. Thanks Dan!

Bleeeeegggh.

So, aside from that unintelligible sound... The car's put back together, well the engine is. The interior is still in a scary number of pieces.

Anyways, I'm now in a no-start situation.

The engine cranks, but acts like it's not getting any fuel. No CELs(besides code 9, which is unrelated), and the vacuum/coolant lines are as perfect as a swapped engine can have.

After about 10 attempts to start the car, the interior lights dimmed marginally, so my mind wandered to the battery. ~12.5 volts, which makes me think fuel again.

I'm too tired and frustrated to work on it again right now, but I figured I'd post a short update.

Weekend to-do list:
Manual belt conversion for '92
Remove stripped lugnut from '93
Clean both cars, plus my girlfriend's 2...
Lightly buff and re-wax the '92

If I can get the '93 running this weekend, after the other things are finished, I'll do motor/gear oil and come monday I'll swap the insurance.

Busy days, yes?