duratec 2.0 turbo motor into my new project mx3.

[seawulff]

so i picked up another mx3 today for my project. original i was going to drop in the zetec 2.0 that is in my garage but that is just too easy. its almost bolt on. im not sure why more people dont do it. i changed my mind though in the process of my research and have settled on the 2.0 duratec with a 2.3 head. the head design and airflow is WAY superior to any of the other motors getting put into our little cars. i have about 5000 for the motor and trans build and prob wont use all of it.

Plans are machining the block for piston oil injectors (still have to double check the machine shop can do it, i was told it was relatively painless), CP pistons with eagle rods 9.0:1 compression, knife edged and cryo dipped crank, clutch masters fx400 stage four clutch, lightened flywheel (not sure if i should use aluminum or lightened steel, i could use some good advice towards the best design), thinking supertech valves, good set of turbo cams (up for suggestion), HE CON ROD bearings rod/main (not sure what the best bearings to use are. i have been doing research on them. i want good performance bearings that will last the longest amount of time. longevity of motor is important to me), arp rod/main/head bolts however i have heard that carr bolts are better, havnt decided on the intake and exhaust manis yet but i have a couple ideas, def going to use a liquid to air intercooler but not sure what brand yet, i have a t3/t4 turbo for now and shooting for adjustable 15 lbs boost for cruse to 20lbs for race(plan on running twins later), megasquirt3 (i have an associate who has tuned before and will help with the street tuning, ill be getting a pro for the dyno tune), have no idea what brand injectors i should be looking at so any input would help.
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK OF THE PLANS AND WHAT I SHOULD CHANGE.

as for trans, im doing more research on it but i want the getrag 6sp from the svt and plan on changing to longer gears and whatever internals need to be upgraded to handle the power. def getting custom performance axles made. i will start posting pics as time moves on. ill get some before pics up. i have a close buddy that does top line custom bodywork and paint jobs (im talking $25,000 paint jobs and $150,000 restorations) and we already have the paint for the car. going black base with dark brandy wine pearl. will look pristine.

[Ryan]

Sounds like you have the cash to get this done

Start a worklog, keep us updated, and post many, many pictures.

[progt91]

hey how about this out of the blue. mazdaspeed 3 drivetrain, im sure there are tons that are write off from collisions, kind of curious if anyone will ever try it

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

why a water air intercooler?
With the extra pump, plumbing and weight, it really is not a super idea for a DD. I understand if you will have 500hp and it's a track only ride. An air to air intercooler will suffice.

[Sleeper6]

why a water air intercooler?
With the extra pump, plumbing and weight, it really is not a super idea for a DD. I understand if you will have 500hp and it's a track only ride. An air to air intercooler will suffice.

Yea you couldalways set up an Air 2 Air with a cryogenics spray kit

[seawulff]

i was thinking water to air because there is no turbo lag and it does a much better job at cooling the air. i am curious now though, is the water pump going to steal a lot of engine power efficiency through the alternator. how much are we talking here. it is not that much more weight and there is plenty of space. im not worried about what will suffice, i want quality and also to some extent fuel efficiency. i dont want to tack on something that is dramatically going to steal my efficiency.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

most cars that have a water air intercooler are running under 10 seconds. I don't think you'll be in that class. Yes, water is waaay better at removing heat than air alone.... but its really only good on a track if you have an ice cold supply of water.

There is no variance in turbo responce here either. That depends on turbo selection, piping, intercooler size etc. An oversized intercooler can cause a pressure drop and an poorly selected turbo will be your main cause for lag. Selection is the key. Do you want top end, low, mid? That stuff matters. build a car based on a HP goal and select parts based on that. Many 500hp evo's use air to air all day long.

[seawulff]

so im curious, what are the negatives of a water to air intercooler vs an air to air.

[mitmaks]

Sounds interesting. Would love to see it all get done with all the pics as it progresses.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

what is your HP goal?

[seawulff]

hp goal is mid 300s. but really there is air to air and water to air inter coolers for all hp ranges. just curious what the best is

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

wow... that's pretty much the low end of the scale. Air to air is your best option. No extra pluming, no need to find constant ice cold water and much lighter.

[seawulff]

well yeah 300 is the low end but i am looking for a daily driver not a track car. at least not at this point. maybe later. 300 is a pretty easy hp goal to hit that isn't going to have to have bearings replaced every 30,000 miles and should still get good fuel efficiency. i want first and foremost, fuel mileage and longevity of this motor.

[300zxrb26dett]

well yeah 300 is the low end but i am looking for a daily driver not a track car. at least not at this point. maybe later. 300 is a pretty easy hp goal to hit that isn't going to have to have bearings replaced every 30,000 miles and should still get good fuel efficiency. i want first and foremost, fuel mileage and longevity of this motor.

And why would you be going through bearings every 30K miles at any horsepower level? If that is occurring you have bigger problems.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

power also has nothing to do with MPG. It all depends on how you drive your car and how well it's tuned.

You do know that you could get the same power out of a BP instead of dropping all this extra cash to do a one off.