MX-3.com

Hey all, I figured i'd start an actual thread about this vs have my intro thread evolve into something it's not.



So. refresher.
Bought Rekognize's bp swapped mx3

LOVE the car.

HATE how the swap was done by the shop that not suprisingly seems to have flopped and packed up shop (no answer on the phone, emails, ect, not even a voicemail)

The car will NOT hold 2500 rpm in neutral rev while warm.. but will while cold (while warm, rpm surges from 2000-2500 but wont stay at 2500)

The CEL does not come on at all (even in acc on)
the battery light does not come on at all (even in acc on)
Ive been told the car is running a stock modified harness, B6 ecu and B6 maf.
The motor (since it's B6ecu wiring bits) doesnt have the full potential it should.
Guzzles gas. 280-300 a tank GRANNYING.
and bucks violently unless careful with the gas pedal under part throttle or low speed crawling. i've found the sweet spot in the pedal.. so it's substantially better.. but sometimes it still catches me sleeping.

the vics was a nightmare (didnt even work when i got the car)
everything was routed wrong.. stuff looped into stuff, stuff just taped off.. i discovered vics not working after taking it for a hard drive and noticing the piss poor power.. upon inspection under the hood with the car free revving via throttlebody... the VICS diaphragm was NOT moving....

used chilton's manual to redo the vac hosing for vics, now it works like a charm. ( used protege 1.8 vac diagram)

and there were a few vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inj harness near the VICS solenoid plugs.. but all the vac lines to these solenoids *NON vic* were looped into themselves... what gives???

since fixing vics.. the car definately pulls stronger.. but still feels weak compared to what i'd expect..

other notable things.

im 100% positive the car is running a rs tranny.

im 100% positive the car is running a maf not a vaf.

what do i need to do to run a bp ecu/vaf on this motor?

What do i do harness wise.. do i modify it more? can i swap in a escort gt manual harness?if so, what do i need to do wiring wise? splicing, repinning, ect, ect, or just change a few plugs??

Get a BP ecu and wiring harness with the BP VAF asap for starts

Remove any B6 things - MAF harness ecu etc

Grab any and all parts you need out of a BP from a junkyard and set
everything up like a BP in an mx3 instead of a hybrid mess.

What year MX is it as im not familiar with Rekognize's car...
If I know the year I can post pictures with the wire splices you will need


RS tranny will give you more fuel efficiency

should of added that your car is a 95, that changes things a little bit due to the 94+ having the DOHC B6 and not the SOHC B6.

Anyways, i'll try to answer what i know in the order you asked them.
-After i swapped my BP in my 94, the CEL has never worked and i think it's supposed to work but i'm not sure, for some reason i some memory of having to do some wiring to get it to work, but that might of just been a dream making me believe my car's fine XD
-now that i think about it, i don't think my battery light comes on either but i'm not positive.
-The car should definitely NOT be running the B6 ECU and MAF, it should be running the BP05 or BP26 ECU (i think the auto BP09 works too, but not sure) and running a VAF, a B-code VAF or Y-code VAF (B is USDM RX7 and Y is JDM BPT)
-now as long as the wiring was properly done by this shop, it shouldn't be a problem, here's a link to Mi|<E's worklog with which wires you have to swap for a 94+ so maybe you can check it
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=45
-I'm positive the gas and bucking problem is because of the improper ECU and MAF/VAF

-i said i was gonna take pics of my BP-T vacuum for you, but that was before i remembered how extremely lazy i am, so unless you NEED them but you said you fixed it so i'm glad.

-as for the vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inf harness, i have no idea what your talking about XD

-you don't need to do anything to run the BP ECU, just plug it in, as for the VAF, i'm not sure what plug the MAF uses but you would have to just find out what wire is what and splice the VAF plug on the harness if the plug is different, if not just plug it in

-At this point it kind of sounds like a better idea just to swap your escort GT harness in because it would be a lot easier than trying to find out what the shop did to the B6 harness. If you don't want to swap the harness then don't go modifying the harness until you know what wire is what, it's possible the shop did it right (though i wouldn't have my hopes up) if you find wires that are wrong then double check that their wrong and then fix it.
-i'll give you the link to Mi|<E's worklog again to his wiring diagram for what you have to change over. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=45

that's all the help i can be right now

*edit, mike beat me to it, just listen to what he says, everything i know is from his worklog or links in his worklog*

Mi|<E wrote:Get a BP ecu and wiring harness with the BP VAF asap for starts

Remove any B6 things - MAF harness ecu etc

Grab any and all parts you need out of a BP from a junkyard and set
everything up like a BP in an mx3 instead of a hybrid mess.

What year MX is it as im not familiar with Rekognize's car...
If I know the year I can post pictures with the wire splices you will need


RS tranny will give you more fuel efficiency

Hey thanks for the much needed pointers.

As i said, luckily i have a few spare 5spd bp ecu's, as well as an escort gt harness, U code or B code vaf (have both)
but one snag i forsee is this motor's distributor doesnt havea 5th wire on the cap going to a coil like the bp im used to.

the year of the car according to ownership & title is a 1995.

& as for the tranny, i definately see what you mean by better fuel mileage.. if my motor was allowing me to take advantage of the taller longer gears and actually give me some mileage. LOL

Evo_Spec wrote:should of added that your car is a 95, that changes things a little bit due to the 94+ having the DOHC B6 and not the SOHC B6.

Anyways, i'll try to answer what i know in the order you asked them.
-After i swapped my BP in my 94, the CEL has never worked and i think it's supposed to work but i'm not sure, for some reason i some memory of having to do some wiring to get it to work, but that might of just been a dream making me believe my car's fine XD
-now that i think about it, i don't think my battery light comes on either but i'm not positive.
-The car should definitely NOT be running the B6 ECU and MAF, it should be running the BP05 or BP26 ECU (i think the auto BP09 works too, but not sure) and running a VAF, a B-code VAF or Y-code VAF (B is USDM RX7 and Y is JDM BPT)
-now as long as the wiring was properly done by this shop, it shouldn't be a problem, here's a link to Mi|<E's worklog with which wires you have to swap for a 94+ so maybe you can check it
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=45
-I'm positive the gas and bucking problem is because of the improper ECU and MAF/VAF

-i said i was gonna take pics of my BP-T vacuum for you, but that was before i remembered how extremely lazy i am, so unless you NEED them but you said you fixed it so i'm glad.

-as for the vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inf harness, i have no idea what your talking about XD

-you don't need to do anything to run the BP ECU, just plug it in, as for the VAF, i'm not sure what plug the MAF uses but you would have to just find out what wire is what and splice the VAF plug on the harness if the plug is different, if not just plug it in

-At this point it kind of sounds like a better idea just to swap your escort GT harness in because it would be a lot easier than trying to find out what the shop did to the B6 harness. If you don't want to swap the harness then don't go modifying the harness until you know what wire is what, it's possible the shop did it right (though i wouldn't have my hopes up) if you find wires that are wrong then double check that their wrong and then fix it.
-i'll give you the link to Mi|<E's worklog again to his wiring diagram for what you have to change over. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=45

that's all the help i can be right now

*edit, mike beat me to it, just listen to what he says, everything i know is from his worklog or links in his worklog*

Hey thanks Evo_Spec, to answer some questions..

The harness on the mx3 motor uses a 5 wire plug to the MAF which looks different shaped than the rectangular plug to a vaf, and i double checked, the VAF is a 7 wire connector.

I came to the conclusion my CEL and charge light dont come on because iirc all your dummy lights are supposed to come on during crank, key on. correct?

The vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inj. my bad, typo, i meant inj not inf.

In the photo of the VICS solenoids.. there's 2 plugs i pushed back under and around the fuel injector harness alongside the fuel rail.

those plugs led to things that looked similar to the vics solenoids that have the vac lines running out of them to strategic places LOL.

except these extra solenoids were looped into themselves via their vac lines.. vs into anything relevant. they remain a mystery to me.

from lots of digging around at BHA chassis diagrams and engine photos/manuals.. the best i could come up with was egr boost sensor. but as far as i knew, bp's didnt have an egr, did they? did the b6 have egr?(dohc) if it didnt, then i shouldnt be worried about having those things unplugged, or routed like they were? since the ecu isnt equipped with egr, then the components are extra weight.

The Bp ecu plugging in, you're right, it cant be that far off.. afterall. the car did crank up and fire up first try.. it just idled down to a stumble to a stall every time.

What would i look for as to judge wether the wiring was done properly or not on this particular swap? LOL any telltale signs?

Will i have problems with my dashboard cluster when i swap over to the bp harness?
Not a wiring guy, do the engine and dash harness correlate? could i not touch my dash harness, and swap my ecu harness?
so many questions!!!!! arrrrgh!!!!

I've been looking at mike's worklog since 2pm at work today haha.

it's still partially japanese to me.

Is your car OBD2?

pox wrote:Is your car OBD2?

I would think obd1, diagnostic port is under the hood
Although it runs Maf (I ALWAYS thought Maf was obd2 though)
and it runs 1 o2, precat, in the downpipe, albeit
A 4 wire o2.

lost. looked last night to compare wiring
The mx3 bp has no external coil.
Egt does
Mx3 dist has 2 plugs. A 6 wire and a 2 wire.
And some sort of single wire running from
What looks like a magnet or something, to what
Looks like a resistor of some sort..

Egt has one plug for the dist, and it's 4 wires..

RedBPmx3 wrote:Hey thanks Evo_Spec, to answer some questions..

The harness on the mx3 motor uses a 5 wire plug to the MAF which looks different shaped than the rectangular plug to a vaf, and i double checked, the VAF is a 7 wire connector.

I came to the conclusion my CEL and charge light dont come on because iirc all your dummy lights are supposed to come on during crank, key on. correct?

The vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inj. my bad, typo, i meant inj not inf.

In the photo of the VICS solenoids.. there's 2 plugs i pushed back under and around the fuel injector harness alongside the fuel rail.

those plugs led to things that looked similar to the vics solenoids that have the vac lines running out of them to strategic places LOL.

except these extra solenoids were looped into themselves via their vac lines.. vs into anything relevant. they remain a mystery to me.

from lots of digging around at BHA chassis diagrams and engine photos/manuals.. the best i could come up with was egr boost sensor. but as far as i knew, bp's didnt have an egr, did they? did the b6 have egr?(dohc) if it didnt, then i shouldnt be worried about having those things unplugged, or routed like they were? since the ecu isnt equipped with egr, then the components are extra weight.

The Bp ecu plugging in, you're right, it cant be that far off.. afterall. the car did crank up and fire up first try.. it just idled down to a stumble to a stall every time.

What would i look for as to judge wether the wiring was done properly or not on this particular swap? LOL any telltale signs?

Will i have problems with my dashboard cluster when i swap over to the bp harness?
Not a wiring guy, do the engine and dash harness correlate? could i not touch my dash harness, and swap my ecu harness?
so many questions!!!!! arrrrgh!!!!

I've been looking at mike's worklog since 2pm at work today haha.

it's still partially japanese to me.

i think you might just be better off swapping your engine harness so that you won't have to fuss with running wires and tracing wires and such.

Your dummy lights should be coming on, your right. My CEL never came on, not even when i swapped the bulb so i never cared, don't remember if my battery lights comes on.

this whole thing about the VICS solenoid, i have no idea because i've never worked on them before, my BP was from a running car and i did my swap well enough i didn't have to touch anything. (far from perfect, but good enough XD)

I'm think the B6DE had an EGR and i'm pretty sure the BP doesn't, but don't quote me on those.

if your gonna try to find out what's been done to your harness and not swap it (but at this point i really think you should swap it) my best guess would be to see if there's some wires from the ECU that aren't inside the factory loom, but who knows, maybe they took the time to re-loom everything, that's why i think you should just swap your harness, cause then you know exactly what's been done.

This might be worded weird but bare with me
The ECU harness is the Engine harness, their the same harness so just swap your BP harness.
Your cluster will work fine, actually you don't have to do anything to your dash harness EXCEPT the 2 wires shown here: http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r298 ... waps-1.jpg (because you have a 94+)
As long as you do the 2 wires properly and everything else is where it should be, your dash and engine harness will work together just fine

hope this all made sense

oh, i AM partially Japanese XD

RedBPmx3 wrote:

pox wrote:Is your car OBD2?

I would think obd1, diagnostic port is under the hood
Although it runs Maf (I ALWAYS thought Maf was obd2 though)
and it runs 1 o2, precat, in the downpipe, albeit
A 4 wire o2.

lost. looked last night to compare wiring
The mx3 bp has no external coil.
Egt does
Mx3 dist has 2 plugs. A 6 wire and a 2 wire.
And some sort of single wire running from
What looks like a magnet or something, to what
Looks like a resistor of some sort..

Egt has one plug for the dist, and it's 4 wires..

If your car is OBD-II it should have 3 plugs on the ECU, OBD-I has 2 plugs on the ECU, it sounds like your car is OBD-I or else pretty much nothing would be working.
Mazda changed the 4cyl engine in 94 from the SOHC's (B6) to the DOHC's (B6DE), all B6DE's have MAF's, so if your car is 94+, which yours is, it would of had a MAF before the swap. (i swapped from the B6DE so i know this for sure)
i have no idea about all the O2 stuff cause i never touched mine or even worked on it

as for all the things your asking about the external coils and disty's and stuff, i have no idea but will give you pictures of my B6DE and BP to pretend like i'm helping =D

I solved the disty plug problem by swapping the engine harness over when i did my swap.

Which i've been meaning to ask, which BP do you have? the same one as the one i have in the picture? or the newer gen one that looks like the B6DE?

Evo_Spec wrote:

RedBPmx3 wrote:Hey thanks Evo_Spec, to answer some questions..

The harness on the mx3 motor uses a 5 wire plug to the MAF which looks different shaped than the rectangular plug to a vaf, and i double checked, the VAF is a 7 wire connector.

I came to the conclusion my CEL and charge light dont come on because iirc all your dummy lights are supposed to come on during crank, key on. correct?

The vac solenoids plugged into the fuel inj. my bad, typo, i meant inj not inf.

In the photo of the VICS solenoids.. there's 2 plugs i pushed back under and around the fuel injector harness alongside the fuel rail.

those plugs led to things that looked similar to the vics solenoids that have the vac lines running out of them to strategic places LOL.

except these extra solenoids were looped into themselves via their vac lines.. vs into anything relevant. they remain a mystery to me.

from lots of digging around at BHA chassis diagrams and engine photos/manuals.. the best i could come up with was egr boost sensor. but as far as i knew, bp's didnt have an egr, did they? did the b6 have egr?(dohc) if it didnt, then i shouldnt be worried about having those things unplugged, or routed like they were? since the ecu isnt equipped with egr, then the components are extra weight.

The Bp ecu plugging in, you're right, it cant be that far off.. afterall. the car did crank up and fire up first try.. it just idled down to a stumble to a stall every time.

What would i look for as to judge wether the wiring was done properly or not on this particular swap? LOL any telltale signs?

Will i have problems with my dashboard cluster when i swap over to the bp harness?
Not a wiring guy, do the engine and dash harness correlate? could i not touch my dash harness, and swap my ecu harness?
so many questions!!!!! arrrrgh!!!!

I've been looking at mike's worklog since 2pm at work today haha.

it's still partially japanese to me.

i think you might just be better off swapping your engine harness so that you won't have to fuss with running wires and tracing wires and such.

Your dummy lights should be coming on, your right. My CEL never came on, not even when i swapped the bulb so i never cared, don't remember if my battery lights comes on.

this whole thing about the VICS solenoid, i have no idea because i've never worked on them before, my BP was from a running car and i did my swap well enough i didn't have to touch anything. (far from perfect, but good enough XD)

I'm think the B6DE had an EGR and i'm pretty sure the BP doesn't, but don't quote me on those.

if your gonna try to find out what's been done to your harness and not swap it (but at this point i really think you should swap it) my best guess would be to see if there's some wires from the ECU that aren't inside the factory loom, but who knows, maybe they took the time to re-loom everything, that's why i think you should just swap your harness, cause then you know exactly what's been done.

This might be worded weird but bare with me
The ECU harness is the Engine harness, their the same harness so just swap your BP harness.
Your cluster will work fine, actually you don't have to do anything to your dash harness EXCEPT the 2 wires shown here: http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r298 ... waps-1.jpg (because you have a 94+)
As long as you do the 2 wires properly and everything else is where it should be, your dash and engine harness will work together just fine

hope this all made sense

oh, i AM partially Japanese XD

I definately think im better off swapping the harness, except again, here's my problem.

the bp harness i have is for a 1991 BP motor, the engine is much newer, there's crucial differences in my harness (91bp) and the new motor's sensor plugs..

example.. My 91 bp has a single distributor plug with 4 wires... the motor in the mx3 has 2 plugs (one 6 wire, and one 2 wire) and an extra piece that looks like a resistor of some sort connected to some sort of little magnet doohickey *almosty like a noise filter of sorts* on the side of the dist (bumper side)

so in physical rights, my bp harness i have wouldnt work.. i'd be short a plug with 2 wires, and short 2 wire on the main plug.
the fuel injector harness... has 3 extra plugs.. im convinced the solenoids i removed that were looped via vac hose HAVE to be
the egr boost sensor/solenoids ect ect ect... the 91 harness doesnt have egr (didnt exist for that motor in north america back then)

what im saying is... how do i get around the fact that the dist on the motor's plugs are completely different and there are more of them, than the harness i want to swap in?

As to your other info... Confirmed. the ecu has 2 plugs.. and very super duper faded, i can just kind of make out a ghosted B6 on what's left of the deteriorated weathered sticker.

I have the new gen that looks like the B6DE..
from the photos.. im almost 100% that they reused the B6DE harness and ran it with a B6 ecu and B6 maf into this new school BP.. My distributor on the mx3 looks identical to the one in the pics of the B6DE. Same goes for the maf, the underhood fusebox.
my harness is for a 1st gen BP just like the one in your picture below..


so... if they reused the B6DE harness to run this new gen, how the hell do i get an ol school harness to work with it??????????



had to refill the car at 260km to the tank today...

to me it sounds like a 2nd gen BP or a kia BP

maybe you can swap the disty from the 1st gen BP?

here's a link to someone who did a 2nd gen BP swap.
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=69380

i won't be much more help than that as i haven't even seen a 2nd gen bp in real life

Okay.... Its a little hard to jump into a thread like this, but I'm trying anyway

The surging idle is 9/10 a vacuum problem.

If you CEL isn't coming on, check the bulb. It is a filament bulb, and they do burn out. More likely, the shop hacked your car to death and pulled the bulb out to cover that the B6 ECM has no damn clue what to do with a MAF sensor. Also, most of the dummy lights only come on in the "ON" position. IIRC, they either dim or turn off for cranking.

You'll need to find an ECM that matches your motor/harness combo... B6 won't cut it. Apparently since you have the 4 wire O2, you should be looking for an ECM coded "BPVR"
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showth ... light=BPVR
(Dark_Rider2k3)

Once you get the major s--- worked out in the harness then worry about VICS. You'll never get it working without a BP ECM anyway. B6 SOHC ecm doesn't have it. Its just one wire you need to run to the ECM, and to splice into the red/white which is everywhere in the harness.

You mentioned a solenoid connected to the fuel rail, thats your fuel pressure regulator solenoid. It opens the FPR at idle so less gas enters the motor. Important for mileage.

Now, it sounds like the shop tried to use the B6 DOHC distributor. Go pick up, from a scrap yard, a SOHC distributor and coil, etc. Wait.... ugh, I think you need a BP distributor. You probably do. Now, if you don't swap the harness, you're going to have some fun issues deciphering the disty. For this problem alone, I suggest finding a true BP harness.

The little thing on the side of the disty is a capacitor, and it is a noise filter.

the extra 3 pins on the fuel rail connector is the ford way of routing the VICS to the ecm. Only 2 of those 3 pins are used. Just match up the colours if you can when you swap on another plug, or go find the fuel rail harness that matches your engine harness.

Okay, so from the sounds of it all, you have a little shopping list:

BP Harness. I suggest a Mazda one as apposed to a Ford one, but both work. Need to get one with the 4 wire O2, or not.
BPVR ECM for a 4 wire O2, and BP09 or BP10 for the 1 wire. (BPVR also works with the 1 wire)
S or U code VAF. I used both on my BP swap, they ran the same...
BP/B6 SOHC style remote coil and coil wire and related wiring.
BP distributor. The optical kind is superior to the hall effect, but both work. You don't want to keep the B6 one you currently have because 1, you'll never get the harness to match it properly, and 2, it fails like all the K8 ones do.

Yeah... thats about all I can say.

May as well see how healthy the motor is anyway and do a compression test. Once you get it running right, change the plugs because the massive overfueling will have gunked it all to s---. Your O2 is probably close to being shot as well.

Evo_Spec wrote:to me it sounds like a 2nd gen BP or a kia BP

maybe you can swap the disty from the 1st gen BP?

here's a link to someone who did a 2nd gen BP swap.
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=69380

i won't be much more help than that as i haven't even seen a 2nd gen bp in real life

the disty idea im starting to lean towards. i read the FAQ write up on swapping the dist for the older one vs the all in one.
That i think would make sense.. it would take care of my mystery wire/plug fiasco from the new gen bp... and in turn.. would let me run my harness. could kill two birds with one stone, since the vaf plug is on that big harness.

Plus his write up is for the 94+ which applies to me.
I'll have to give it a solid re-read... he adapts the dist plugs to the b6de harness though, whereas i'll just be swapping harnesses.

Ryan wrote:Okay.... Its a little hard to jump into a thread like this, but I'm trying anyway

The surging idle is 9/10 a vacuum problem.

If you CEL isn't coming on, check the bulb. It is a filament bulb, and they do burn out. More likely, the shop hacked your car to death and pulled the bulb out to cover that the B6 ECM has no damn clue what to do with a MAF sensor. Also, most of the dummy lights only come on in the "ON" position. IIRC, they either dim or turn off for cranking.

You'll need to find an ECM that matches your motor/harness combo... B6 won't cut it. Apparently since you have the 4 wire O2, you should be looking for an ECM coded "BPVR"
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showth ... light=BPVR
(Dark_Rider2k3)

Once you get the major s--- worked out in the harness then worry about VICS. You'll never get it working without a BP ECM anyway. B6 SOHC ecm doesn't have it. Its just one wire you need to run to the ECM, and to splice into the red/white which is everywhere in the harness.

You mentioned a solenoid connected to the fuel rail, thats your fuel pressure regulator solenoid. It opens the FPR at idle so less gas enters the motor. Important for mileage.

Now, it sounds like the shop tried to use the B6 DOHC distributor. Go pick up, from a scrap yard, a SOHC distributor and coil, etc. Wait.... ugh, I think you need a BP distributor. You probably do. Now, if you don't swap the harness, you're going to have some fun issues deciphering the disty. For this problem alone, I suggest finding a true BP harness.

The little thing on the side of the disty is a capacitor, and it is a noise filter.

the extra 3 pins on the fuel rail connector is the ford way of routing the VICS to the ecm. Only 2 of those 3 pins are used. Just match up the colours if you can when you swap on another plug, or go find the fuel rail harness that matches your engine harness.

Okay, so from the sounds of it all, you have a little shopping list:

BP Harness. I suggest a Mazda one as apposed to a Ford one, but both work. Need to get one with the 4 wire O2, or not.
BPVR ECM for a 4 wire O2, and BP09 or BP10 for the 1 wire. (BPVR also works with the 1 wire)
S or U code VAF. I used both on my BP swap, they ran the same...
BP/B6 SOHC style remote coil and coil wire and related wiring.
BP distributor. The optical kind is superior to the hall effect, but both work. You don't want to keep the B6 one you currently have because 1, you'll never get the harness to match it properly, and 2, it fails like all the K8 ones do.

Yeah... thats about all I can say.

May as well see how healthy the motor is anyway and do a compression test. Once you get it running right, change the plugs because the massive overfueling will have gunked it all to s---. Your O2 is probably close to being shot as well.

Hey thanks for jumpin' in. i'll update ya.

the surging, isnt at idle, it's only when im trying to rev the car in neutral/free rev to 2500 rpm and hold it there.. it surges from 2000-2500 but will not hold 2500 steadily.
and this is also only when the car is at operating temps.
cold idle, it'll hold 2500 rpm effortlessly.. but warm, it will not.
I would figure a car to surge at idle, i fully agree, but this isnt at idle.

checked CEL.. bulb is fine, even swapped it into another socket to see if it lit up (which it did)
my vics does work i think.. at least in free revving, the butterflies do open at 5000 ish (visual confirmation by pulling throttlebody slowly and watching vics area).

Another thing too, im not coming from sohc.. im coming from dohc b6 (94+)
And the harness that's being run is still the mazda dohc b6 harness, i have to swap IN a ford harness which only has 2 plugs, a white and brown one, which goto vics. there's no FPR solenoid on ford versions.
Can you confirm that the B6dohc motor had EGR possibly????

I've mentioned it a few times, but didnt really get a solid accurate response anywhere.
EGR boost sensor ect...

And, even plugged into the rail.. the solenoids cant do anything.. their vac hosing is just looped.

Between the FAQ write up, and now you mentioning swapping a 1g bp dist.. i believe this is what i'll be planning to do.
as for the bpvr ecu.. screw it. i'll run the obd1 bp ecu (1 wire o2) and just use the 4 wire sensor like the 4 wire heated sensor mod that exists for the 1g bp. quicker warmup times and readings since the sensor isnt heated by the exhaust gases, but rather powered and grounded.

I'll be checking the plugs as soon as i fully wake up, & triple s.

UPDATE:

plugs seem ok, not charred black but not chalk white either, definately on the richer side, but nothing crazy.

Started to clean up the spare harness going into the car once i swap for a 1g dist. and to my suprise, i actually have the R.I.C still connected to the harness. Spare parts for the win, i didnt think i actually had it attatched to the harness.

Also found a few spare 1g bp external coils, so that's another piece less i have to find.

All i really have to do at this point is find a 1g dist. and a 1g ignition module, and theoretically i should be set to go.

Just have to reread the 2 wires that need to be swapped for the 94+ that the how to mentions *im sh*t with wiring.. and hate diagrams LOL*

and then hope everyone's right, that my dash will work with the 1g engine harness.